2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

big brake kits

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Old 12-12-2005, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nismo convert' post='785681' date='Dec 12 2005, 12:44 PM

Tires don't stop the car, they aid in stopping, but don't make it stop, the friction from the pads on rotor stop, along with the friction between the road and the tire.


The pads/rotor stop the tires, not the car. The tires stop the car. Tires are where all the energy is applied to start/stop the car. Energy is applied to the road from the tires. Again, Newton's 2nd law applies here.



Here is a question here:

Can you stop quicker when its wet or dry? Then ask yourself, why is that. Thats the reason why tires stop your car, not the brakes. You can have the best brakes in the world, if your tires cannot stop your car, the brakes do nothing for you.



Read this if you can handle it http://autopedia.com/stuttgart-west/Physic...tPhysics01.html. It is an awesome site that goes through all the physics of racing and goes in depth with equations and everything you can imagine.
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='785697' date='Dec 12 2005, 10:46 AM

Why do you say that? You talkin about unsprung weight?




Less rotational mass, less weight overall, cheaper components.



Every race team I have been arround or read about runs the smallest breaks possible for the event.
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Old 12-12-2005, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GMON' post='785703' date='Dec 12 2005, 01:57 PM

Less rotational mass, less weight overall, cheaper components.



Every race team I have been arround or read about runs the smallest breaks possible for the event.


I do agree with this. If a 10" rotor has the same performance as a 13", I would choose the 10" so that all the rest of the energy is applied to the wheels. It all depends on the car. There are so many factors. Its one of those things that the R/D guys on race teams do to find out the best setup for the car.
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Old 12-12-2005, 01:31 PM
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ok but what youre ALL SKIPPING is the fact that the topic starter said HIS CURRENT BRAKES DONT DO THE JOB AND HE SUFFERS BRAKE FADE.



are you gonna tell him to buy new tires? no. you're all saying "oh the stock brakes shoudl be good enough"...guess what HE IS EXPERIENCING BRAKE FADE.



Since your brakes ARE NOT performing up to your needs then by all means upgrade them. Youve apparently upgraded the pads, fluid and rotors to no avail. Therefore your next step could be a better master cylinder (I believe FEED makes one) and see if that helps, or you could go BBK and see if that fixes your issues.



this isnt a debate about IF his brakes are up to it.... He clearly told you HIS BRAKES ARENT GOOD ENOUGH.



geebus. and im not even gonna step into the whole stock vs aftermarket debate. each has its pros and cons. tires only matter when theyre not a constant variable in the brake equation. that is if you're talking about solely the tire contact patch area and not a specific tire size.



you guys made this whole topic so overly complicated.



kevin.
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Old 12-12-2005, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by teknics' post='785714' date='Dec 12 2005, 11:31 AM

ok but what youre ALL SKIPPING is the fact that the topic starter said HIS CURRENT BRAKES DONT DO THE JOB AND HE SUFFERS BRAKE FADE.



are you gonna tell him to buy new tires? no. you're all saying "oh the stock brakes shoudl be good enough"...guess what HE IS EXPERIENCING BRAKE FADE.



Since your brakes ARE NOT performing up to your needs then by all means upgrade them. Youve apparently upgraded the pads, fluid and rotors to no avail. Therefore your next step could be a better master cylinder (I believe FEED makes one) and see if that helps, or you could go BBK and see if that fixes your issues.



this isnt a debate about IF his brakes are up to it.... He clearly told you HIS BRAKES ARENT GOOD ENOUGH.



geebus. and im not even gonna step into the whole stock vs aftermarket debate. each has its pros and cons. tires only matter when theyre not a constant variable in the brake equation. that is if you're talking about solely the tire contact patch area and not a specific tire size.



you guys made this whole topic so overly complicated.



kevin.


lamo! CHANGE THE NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL!
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Old 12-12-2005, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' post='785581
More area, more friction, more heat all creates more kinetic friction, this leads to stopping faster.


No, the only thing BBKs allow is the fact that they can go through cylces of heat transfer better then the smaller sized rotors on stock braking systems. TIRES stop a car better, wider, sticker tread are what leads to stoping faster, not bigger rotors.



You guys can talk **** about me all you want, but on this topic I am right. Sorry to inform you, but brakes do not stop a car, tires do.
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Old 12-12-2005, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by teknics' post='785714' date='Dec 12 2005, 11:31 AM

ok but what youre ALL SKIPPING is the fact that the topic starter said HIS CURRENT BRAKES DONT DO THE JOB AND HE SUFFERS BRAKE FADE.



yes my point is my brakes do not perform even remotetly close to what i need them for even on the streets. i run a very stick falkin 615 tire with 225 wide frount and 255 rear, my car is not a 2500 pound na car its a 2800 pound close to 500 hp car and with that much grip and that sticky of a tire with that much contact patch my current set up does not do the job. for all of you who say the stock brakes do the job just fine, i would love to see each and everyone of you to take a high grip high hp car to a big road coarse track or hell even a windy back road and then tell me the stock brakes work just fine.



are you gonna tell him to buy new tires? no. you're all saying "oh the stock brakes shoudl be good enough"...guess what HE IS EXPERIENCING BRAKE FADE.





this isnt a debate about IF his brakes are up to it.... He clearly told you HIS BRAKES ARENT GOOD ENOUGH.



geebus. and im not even gonna step into the whole stock vs aftermarket debate. each has its pros and cons. tires only matter when theyre not a constant variable in the brake equation. that is if you're talking about solely the tire contact patch area and not a specific tire size.



you guys made this whole topic so overly complicated.



agreed



randy
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Old 12-12-2005, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='785718' date='Dec 12 2005, 11:48 AM

lamo! CHANGE THE NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL!


lol why change the nut behind the wheel where there is technolagy out there to make the nut look good?
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:06 PM
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If you can afford it, RE makes a BBK for the FC. Looks sick too.



I have heard that a 929 Master cylinder fits our cars and is a little larger. SS braided lines help out alot, espicially on our old tired cars.



Good luck trying to find a hella larger BBK for the rears. Most companys dont spend much time and money in the rear because 80% of stopping is in your front brakes. The largest I have seen is a 12.1 rotor with a 2 piston caliper. RE may have a 4 piston rear, but they dont have it listed. You could always modify ones for the front and use them on the rear.
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:14 PM
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what i was thinkin about was maybe taking the rear calipers from a evo8 or a sti and using thoughs, and yes the 929 master works nicly. for now though i am focusing in on the frount and am just going to tinker with the rear on a spare rear end assembly i have laying around.



its nice to have spare parts like a whole rear sub frame and frount knuckles and hub assemblies laying around colecting dust in cases like mine,,,,,,,,, the things one comes up with when totaly bored, left to his imagination and have nothing better to do then to play with his or her car.
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