Automatic To 5 Speed Swap
05-20-2005, 06:40 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 270
Quoted from Hypntyz:
Automatic to 5speed conversion
Parts List:
Pedal set with clutch and brake
clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
starter from 5speed nonturbo
automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
crossmember adaptor, available now from Rotary Resurrection for $40 plus shipping.
speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed.
Procedures:
Pull your exhaust and shields.
Disconect your battery.
Pull your driveshaft, drain the transmission, and disconnect the shifter linkage.
Remove the shifter assembly inside the car.
Drop the transmission crossmember then unbolt the starter, bellhousing and remove torque convertor bolts.
Disconect all wiring, remove the tranny cooler lines from the side of the engine and radiator, disconnect the vacuum lead from the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold on the engine and plug this nipple on the manifold now so you dont forget. Disconnect the AT dipstick from the intake.
Drop the tranny trying to keep the torque convertor inside it.
Remove the AT flexplate and counterweight using the 2 1/8 socket and impact wrench. A swift and hefty whack with a sledge on the outer edge of the counterweight usually loosens it up.
Install the flywheel and torque to 350 ft-lb.
Install the clutch components, then the 5sp transmission. Be sure to lube and clean the input shaft splines.
Install the 5sp starter.
IF your 5sp tranny has its crossmember still intact, remove it, leaving the large mounting stud.
Loosely mount the aotumatic crossmember in its original position. This will leave you with an open hole in the AT x-member, and a mounting stud on the 5sp tranny.
Use the adaptor and bolt up the transmission to the AT x-member, and tighten all bolts.
Install the driveshaft.
Swap speedo gears in the transmission tailshaft. This ensures your speedo stays accurate because the rearend ratios in most 5sp and AT cars are different. You want to use the gear that was in your old AT tranny. You can also consider swapping the rearend as discussed above.
Bolt up the exhaust.
Fill the tranny with gear oil.
Modify the wiring for the reverse lights. In 86-8 cars, you'll need to find the 3 prong white gang plug still in the car. 2 of these 3 wires actuate the reverse lights...one is a supply, and one a return. There is a simple switch on the 5sp tranny, the 2 red wires. Extend these 2 red wires and attatch them to these 2 prongs in the plug to make the lights work. The switch simply allows the supply to pass through and actuate the return power, which leads to the lights. It does not matter which wire from teh switch goes to which, its a simple on/off switch polarity does not matter. FOr 89-91 cars, you need to run your own power lead from a switched power supply such as the fusebox. Connect it to one of the red wires. Then extend the other one to the stock plug, and supply wire. I dont quite remember which one this was, but I know it is one out of 2. There is a large 6 prong gang plug, and a smaller 3 prong plug. Try both the 6 prong plug, lower row, middle terminal. IF that isnt it, then it must be the 3 prong plug, top plug(offset to one side). I have done it before but I dont recall which one it ended up being.
Modify the starter wiring. For now you'll leave off the stock trigger wire, the smaller of the 2 starter wires. Cut a 6 foot length of 14 gage wire, attatch the proper terminal, and run it through the firewall for later connection to the ignition switch. This is necessary because you need to bypass the stock automatic tranny safety devices...park and neutral safety lockouts. The car will not start without doing this.
If working on a 89-91 car youll need to get inside the passenger kick panel. There will be a metal box called EC-AT. IT is the electronic transmission's computer. Once the AT is removed this MUST be disconnected for the car to run right. Just unplug it and go on.
Install the 5sp shifter parts.
Remove the pedals. Youll have to remove the steering column to do this. There are many 12mm bolts under the dash and on the firewall that hold the pedals in. The brake master cylinder and booster assembly must also be nearly removed to clear the pedals. Install the new pedals and reinstall the steering column.
For the ignition switch wires, leave one disconnected...it is thick, black with a red stripe. Find your starter trigger wire you ran earlier, and connect it to this wire...the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch. This bypasses all the automatic interlocks that will keep you from starting. IF you wish to have a functional clutch pedal interlock, find the clutch pedal switch and first run your starter wire through that, then into the ignition switch.
Remove the blockoff plate from the firewall for the clutch MC. Install the new clutch MC, slave cylinder and lines, and bleed if necessary.
Start the car and make necessary idle adjustments. Dont be alarmed that this is required, the AT and MT cars are set up slightly differently from the factory, and youll have to alter this to get it running smooth and driveable.
Enjoy your new 5sp car.
Automatic to 5speed conversion
Parts List:
Pedal set with clutch and brake
clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
starter from 5speed nonturbo
automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
crossmember adaptor, available now from Rotary Resurrection for $40 plus shipping.
speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed.
Procedures:
Pull your exhaust and shields.
Disconect your battery.
Pull your driveshaft, drain the transmission, and disconnect the shifter linkage.
Remove the shifter assembly inside the car.
Drop the transmission crossmember then unbolt the starter, bellhousing and remove torque convertor bolts.
Disconect all wiring, remove the tranny cooler lines from the side of the engine and radiator, disconnect the vacuum lead from the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold on the engine and plug this nipple on the manifold now so you dont forget. Disconnect the AT dipstick from the intake.
Drop the tranny trying to keep the torque convertor inside it.
Remove the AT flexplate and counterweight using the 2 1/8 socket and impact wrench. A swift and hefty whack with a sledge on the outer edge of the counterweight usually loosens it up.
Install the flywheel and torque to 350 ft-lb.
Install the clutch components, then the 5sp transmission. Be sure to lube and clean the input shaft splines.
Install the 5sp starter.
IF your 5sp tranny has its crossmember still intact, remove it, leaving the large mounting stud.
Loosely mount the aotumatic crossmember in its original position. This will leave you with an open hole in the AT x-member, and a mounting stud on the 5sp tranny.
Use the adaptor and bolt up the transmission to the AT x-member, and tighten all bolts.
Install the driveshaft.
Swap speedo gears in the transmission tailshaft. This ensures your speedo stays accurate because the rearend ratios in most 5sp and AT cars are different. You want to use the gear that was in your old AT tranny. You can also consider swapping the rearend as discussed above.
Bolt up the exhaust.
Fill the tranny with gear oil.
Modify the wiring for the reverse lights. In 86-8 cars, you'll need to find the 3 prong white gang plug still in the car. 2 of these 3 wires actuate the reverse lights...one is a supply, and one a return. There is a simple switch on the 5sp tranny, the 2 red wires. Extend these 2 red wires and attatch them to these 2 prongs in the plug to make the lights work. The switch simply allows the supply to pass through and actuate the return power, which leads to the lights. It does not matter which wire from teh switch goes to which, its a simple on/off switch polarity does not matter. FOr 89-91 cars, you need to run your own power lead from a switched power supply such as the fusebox. Connect it to one of the red wires. Then extend the other one to the stock plug, and supply wire. I dont quite remember which one this was, but I know it is one out of 2. There is a large 6 prong gang plug, and a smaller 3 prong plug. Try both the 6 prong plug, lower row, middle terminal. IF that isnt it, then it must be the 3 prong plug, top plug(offset to one side). I have done it before but I dont recall which one it ended up being.
Modify the starter wiring. For now you'll leave off the stock trigger wire, the smaller of the 2 starter wires. Cut a 6 foot length of 14 gage wire, attatch the proper terminal, and run it through the firewall for later connection to the ignition switch. This is necessary because you need to bypass the stock automatic tranny safety devices...park and neutral safety lockouts. The car will not start without doing this.
If working on a 89-91 car youll need to get inside the passenger kick panel. There will be a metal box called EC-AT. IT is the electronic transmission's computer. Once the AT is removed this MUST be disconnected for the car to run right. Just unplug it and go on.
Install the 5sp shifter parts.
Remove the pedals. Youll have to remove the steering column to do this. There are many 12mm bolts under the dash and on the firewall that hold the pedals in. The brake master cylinder and booster assembly must also be nearly removed to clear the pedals. Install the new pedals and reinstall the steering column.
For the ignition switch wires, leave one disconnected...it is thick, black with a red stripe. Find your starter trigger wire you ran earlier, and connect it to this wire...the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch. This bypasses all the automatic interlocks that will keep you from starting. IF you wish to have a functional clutch pedal interlock, find the clutch pedal switch and first run your starter wire through that, then into the ignition switch.
Remove the blockoff plate from the firewall for the clutch MC. Install the new clutch MC, slave cylinder and lines, and bleed if necessary.
Start the car and make necessary idle adjustments. Dont be alarmed that this is required, the AT and MT cars are set up slightly differently from the factory, and youll have to alter this to get it running smooth and driveable.
Enjoy your new 5sp car.
05-20-2005, 08:50 AM
#3
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: My BIG ol TURBO-DIESEL
Posts: 5,181
Just for the record: I HIGHLY recommend welding in new ears to mount the manual tranny supports in the factory location.
Most (99%) of the adaptor mounts I have seen, I would not trust in my car. { for the record: KEVIN I am not picking, I am just stating my preference based on my engineering judgement)
Most (99%) of the adaptor mounts I have seen, I would not trust in my car. { for the record: KEVIN I am not picking, I am just stating my preference based on my engineering judgement)
05-20-2005, 09:49 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: QUEENS NYC
Posts: 1,687
[quote name='banzaitoyota' date='May 20 2005, 05:50 AM']Just for the record: I HIGHLY recommend welding in new ears to mount the manual tranny supports in the factory location.
Most (99%) of the adaptor mounts I have seen, I would not trust in my car. { for the record: KEVIN I am not picking, I am just stating my preference based on my engineering judgement)
[/quote]
NO i totally agree. My friend weld so ill tell them to weld it for me
Most (99%) of the adaptor mounts I have seen, I would not trust in my car. { for the record: KEVIN I am not picking, I am just stating my preference based on my engineering judgement)
[snapback]715695[/snapback]
[/quote]
NO i totally agree. My friend weld so ill tell them to weld it for me
05-20-2005, 09:51 AM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: QUEENS NYC
Posts: 1,687
[quote name='BoneT2&Harmony' date='May 20 2005, 03:40 AM']Quoted from Hypntyz:
Automatic to 5speed conversion
Parts List:
Pedal set with clutch and brake
clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
starter from 5speed nonturbo
automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
crossmember adaptor, available now from Rotary Resurrection for $40 plus shipping.
speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed.
Procedures:
Pull your exhaust and shields.
Disconect your battery.
Pull your driveshaft, drain the transmission, and disconnect the shifter linkage.
Remove the shifter assembly inside the car.
Drop the transmission crossmember then unbolt the starter, bellhousing and remove torque convertor bolts.
Disconect all wiring, remove the tranny cooler lines from the side of the engine and radiator, disconnect the vacuum lead from the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold on the engine and plug this nipple on the manifold now so you dont forget. Disconnect the AT dipstick from the intake.
Drop the tranny trying to keep the torque convertor inside it.
Remove the AT flexplate and counterweight using the 2 1/8 socket and impact wrench. A swift and hefty whack with a sledge on the outer edge of the counterweight usually loosens it up.
Install the flywheel and torque to 350 ft-lb.
Install the clutch components, then the 5sp transmission. Be sure to lube and clean the input shaft splines.
Install the 5sp starter.
IF your 5sp tranny has its crossmember still intact, remove it, leaving the large mounting stud.
Loosely mount the aotumatic crossmember in its original position. This will leave you with an open hole in the AT x-member, and a mounting stud on the 5sp tranny.
Use the adaptor and bolt up the transmission to the AT x-member, and tighten all bolts.
Install the driveshaft.
Swap speedo gears in the transmission tailshaft. This ensures your speedo stays accurate because the rearend ratios in most 5sp and AT cars are different. You want to use the gear that was in your old AT tranny. You can also consider swapping the rearend as discussed above.
Bolt up the exhaust.
Fill the tranny with gear oil.
Modify the wiring for the reverse lights. In 86-8 cars, you'll need to find the 3 prong white gang plug still in the car. 2 of these 3 wires actuate the reverse lights...one is a supply, and one a return. There is a simple switch on the 5sp tranny, the 2 red wires. Extend these 2 red wires and attatch them to these 2 prongs in the plug to make the lights work. The switch simply allows the supply to pass through and actuate the return power, which leads to the lights. It does not matter which wire from teh switch goes to which, its a simple on/off switch polarity does not matter. FOr 89-91 cars, you need to run your own power lead from a switched power supply such as the fusebox. Connect it to one of the red wires. Then extend the other one to the stock plug, and supply wire. I dont quite remember which one this was, but I know it is one out of 2. There is a large 6 prong gang plug, and a smaller 3 prong plug. Try both the 6 prong plug, lower row, middle terminal. IF that isnt it, then it must be the 3 prong plug, top plug(offset to one side). I have done it before but I dont recall which one it ended up being.
Modify the starter wiring. For now you'll leave off the stock trigger wire, the smaller of the 2 starter wires. Cut a 6 foot length of 14 gage wire, attatch the proper terminal, and run it through the firewall for later connection to the ignition switch. This is necessary because you need to bypass the stock automatic tranny safety devices...park and neutral safety lockouts. The car will not start without doing this.
If working on a 89-91 car youll need to get inside the passenger kick panel. There will be a metal box called EC-AT. IT is the electronic transmission's computer. Once the AT is removed this MUST be disconnected for the car to run right. Just unplug it and go on.
Install the 5sp shifter parts.
Remove the pedals. Youll have to remove the steering column to do this. There are many 12mm bolts under the dash and on the firewall that hold the pedals in. The brake master cylinder and booster assembly must also be nearly removed to clear the pedals. Install the new pedals and reinstall the steering column.
For the ignition switch wires, leave one disconnected...it is thick, black with a red stripe. Find your starter trigger wire you ran earlier, and connect it to this wire...the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch. This bypasses all the automatic interlocks that will keep you from starting. IF you wish to have a functional clutch pedal interlock, find the clutch pedal switch and first run your starter wire through that, then into the ignition switch.
Remove the blockoff plate from the firewall for the clutch MC. Install the new clutch MC, slave cylinder and lines, and bleed if necessary.
Start the car and make necessary idle adjustments. Dont be alarmed that this is required, the AT and MT cars are set up slightly differently from the factory, and youll have to alter this to get it running smooth and driveable.
Enjoy your new 5sp car.
[/quote]
Good looking out man i apppreciate it.
Jason
Automatic to 5speed conversion
Parts List:
Pedal set with clutch and brake
clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
starter from 5speed nonturbo
automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
crossmember adaptor, available now from Rotary Resurrection for $40 plus shipping.
speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed.
Procedures:
Pull your exhaust and shields.
Disconect your battery.
Pull your driveshaft, drain the transmission, and disconnect the shifter linkage.
Remove the shifter assembly inside the car.
Drop the transmission crossmember then unbolt the starter, bellhousing and remove torque convertor bolts.
Disconect all wiring, remove the tranny cooler lines from the side of the engine and radiator, disconnect the vacuum lead from the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold on the engine and plug this nipple on the manifold now so you dont forget. Disconnect the AT dipstick from the intake.
Drop the tranny trying to keep the torque convertor inside it.
Remove the AT flexplate and counterweight using the 2 1/8 socket and impact wrench. A swift and hefty whack with a sledge on the outer edge of the counterweight usually loosens it up.
Install the flywheel and torque to 350 ft-lb.
Install the clutch components, then the 5sp transmission. Be sure to lube and clean the input shaft splines.
Install the 5sp starter.
IF your 5sp tranny has its crossmember still intact, remove it, leaving the large mounting stud.
Loosely mount the aotumatic crossmember in its original position. This will leave you with an open hole in the AT x-member, and a mounting stud on the 5sp tranny.
Use the adaptor and bolt up the transmission to the AT x-member, and tighten all bolts.
Install the driveshaft.
Swap speedo gears in the transmission tailshaft. This ensures your speedo stays accurate because the rearend ratios in most 5sp and AT cars are different. You want to use the gear that was in your old AT tranny. You can also consider swapping the rearend as discussed above.
Bolt up the exhaust.
Fill the tranny with gear oil.
Modify the wiring for the reverse lights. In 86-8 cars, you'll need to find the 3 prong white gang plug still in the car. 2 of these 3 wires actuate the reverse lights...one is a supply, and one a return. There is a simple switch on the 5sp tranny, the 2 red wires. Extend these 2 red wires and attatch them to these 2 prongs in the plug to make the lights work. The switch simply allows the supply to pass through and actuate the return power, which leads to the lights. It does not matter which wire from teh switch goes to which, its a simple on/off switch polarity does not matter. FOr 89-91 cars, you need to run your own power lead from a switched power supply such as the fusebox. Connect it to one of the red wires. Then extend the other one to the stock plug, and supply wire. I dont quite remember which one this was, but I know it is one out of 2. There is a large 6 prong gang plug, and a smaller 3 prong plug. Try both the 6 prong plug, lower row, middle terminal. IF that isnt it, then it must be the 3 prong plug, top plug(offset to one side). I have done it before but I dont recall which one it ended up being.
Modify the starter wiring. For now you'll leave off the stock trigger wire, the smaller of the 2 starter wires. Cut a 6 foot length of 14 gage wire, attatch the proper terminal, and run it through the firewall for later connection to the ignition switch. This is necessary because you need to bypass the stock automatic tranny safety devices...park and neutral safety lockouts. The car will not start without doing this.
If working on a 89-91 car youll need to get inside the passenger kick panel. There will be a metal box called EC-AT. IT is the electronic transmission's computer. Once the AT is removed this MUST be disconnected for the car to run right. Just unplug it and go on.
Install the 5sp shifter parts.
Remove the pedals. Youll have to remove the steering column to do this. There are many 12mm bolts under the dash and on the firewall that hold the pedals in. The brake master cylinder and booster assembly must also be nearly removed to clear the pedals. Install the new pedals and reinstall the steering column.
For the ignition switch wires, leave one disconnected...it is thick, black with a red stripe. Find your starter trigger wire you ran earlier, and connect it to this wire...the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch. This bypasses all the automatic interlocks that will keep you from starting. IF you wish to have a functional clutch pedal interlock, find the clutch pedal switch and first run your starter wire through that, then into the ignition switch.
Remove the blockoff plate from the firewall for the clutch MC. Install the new clutch MC, slave cylinder and lines, and bleed if necessary.
Start the car and make necessary idle adjustments. Dont be alarmed that this is required, the AT and MT cars are set up slightly differently from the factory, and youll have to alter this to get it running smooth and driveable.
Enjoy your new 5sp car.
[snapback]715668[/snapback]
[/quote]
Good looking out man i apppreciate it.
Jason
05-20-2005, 09:32 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: QUEENS NYC
Posts: 1,687
[quote name='drftk1d' date='May 20 2005, 10:22 AM']if you wait a bit you can have my old n/a flywheel.
for free no kidding.
[/quote]
no i think im good cause when i get this FC it comes with everything. But if i need it ill let ya know. good looking out. IM me later iight Dori Dori lol
for free no kidding.
[snapback]715797[/snapback]
[/quote]
no i think im good cause when i get this FC it comes with everything. But if i need it ill let ya know. good looking out. IM me later iight Dori Dori lol
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