Tps
09-20-2005, 05:07 PM
#31
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1
Originally Posted by CGeek2k' post='701065' date='Apr 17 2005, 05:18 PM
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm.
I agree, always use multimeter due to following:
Adjustment of TPS can reduce hesitation and idle problems. Checking max resistance of TPS can also uncover problems with high RPM hesitations. This resistance method is a more precise method that using twin diagnostics lights or measuring voltage. Both inferior methods require you to insert key into ignition and turn to "ON" position; this resistance method does not require you to turn ignition on. double-lights method will not always give you proper single light on condition. Voltage adjustments can be skewed from a weak battery.
08-03-2006, 08:29 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 278
Originally Posted by gbowers' post='760809' date='Sep 20 2005, 06:07 PM
I agree, always use multimeter due to following:
Adjustment of TPS can reduce hesitation and idle problems. Checking max resistance of TPS can also uncover problems with high RPM hesitations. This resistance method is a more precise method that using twin diagnostics lights or measuring voltage. Both inferior methods require you to insert key into ignition and turn to "ON" position; this resistance method does not require you to turn ignition on. double-lights method will not always give you proper single light on condition. Voltage adjustments can be skewed from a weak battery.
Does the car still need to be fully warm? Which of the prongs is positive, and which is negative, out of A and B?
08-17-2006, 08:55 PM
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 17
If you've already warmed up, set your TPS with a multimeter, and are still getting code 18, your switch is not functioning properly. Use the test lights to see what's going on. I set mine about five times before checking with the lights only to find that I was either at full close or full open, yet my sensor range was fine. There was no single light condition.
12-30-2006, 05:17 PM
#36
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by CGeek2k' post='701065' date='Apr 17 2005, 02:18 PM
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm.
i tried this method and the metter's reading 0 or close to 0. i turned the screw and never got any response out of it. i don't know it i'm doing this wrong on what? i used the green 3 port conection thing but this dosn't seem to work for me. the tps is only 6 months old at the most so it shouldn't be out, would it?
02-24-2007, 05:53 PM
#38
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: warner robins, ga
Posts: 66
Originally Posted by isamu' post='224035' date='May 1 2003, 01:31 AM
Than find the green two prong connector over by the leading coils near the battery. This is the intial set coupler, you will need to jump it with a wire or paper clip.
found the 3 slot by the air filter
but beside the battery i dont have a 3 slot, i have 2 6 slotters and 2 1 slotters. if i need to jump the 6, which slots do i jump?
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