Flooding Problems.
02-12-2003, 12:46 PM
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Originally Posted by FCmaniac' date='Feb 12 2003, 06:00 PM
Pengaru, you sound like that guy on a video I was watching last night on rebuilding a 13B.... Is your name Bruce something? 
07-02-2003, 12:31 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Panama City, Florida
Posts: 224
Hey guys, I need some help starting my car, I've posted some things about it before on this site, but the main thing is that it almost starts but doesn't. When I take the plugs out, the trailing ones always have this black gas stuff on them and the leading ones don't. Somebody told me it might be the timing but I have adjusted it like 5 times and still nothing. I have tried pull starting it, but nothing. I can get it to jump a little though when I put it in gear and let go of the clutch, but that is all. I need some help badly.
08-05-2003, 09:24 PM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Originally Posted by Houstonderk' date='Jul 2 2003, 05:31 AM
Hey guys, I need some help starting my car, I've posted some things about it before on this site, but the main thing is that it almost starts but doesn't. When I take the plugs out, the trailing ones always have this black gas stuff on them and the leading ones don't. Somebody told me it might be the timing but I have adjusted it like 5 times and still nothing. I have tried pull starting it, but nothing. I can get it to jump a little though when I put it in gear and let go of the clutch, but that is all. I need some help badly.
if you have roughly the right amount of fuel, properly timed spark, air, and compression, you have a running motor.
08-06-2003, 11:54 PM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NASA/JSC - Clear Lake, TX
Posts: 870
when mine flooded and died, it was the spark plug wires (stock and rusted). check each side of the connections, and make sure they aren't bent up and are making good contact with the coils/igniters. if you have a multimeter, it wouldn't hurt to check the resistance of the wires. if some of the resistences seem too high, replace them.
09-03-2003, 12:32 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Fort Polk, LA
Posts: 76
How you doing man. Try a real cheap and easy fix before you tear your motor down. I personally don't care for Mazdatrix but go to their website and order a fuel line bypass valve. I can't remember but I think it costs around $25. I think the problem your having is nothing more than bad primary fuel injectors. On 2nd gen rx7's the only thing in the fuel system to hold the pressure in the fuel line after the car is shut off is the injectors. Your's are probably leaking. If your on an extreme budget like myself, Nopi is a good place to get aftermarket injectors( good $ ). I think I bought Venom injectors there for around $45 a pop. Leave your primary's the original size, but go ahead and put high flow injectors in the secondary's. Doesn't cost much more. You'll have to remove the upper intake manifold so get the right gasket before you start the job. Pretty easy fix. Don't let rotary engines scare you man. They're the best engines made. If you work with them a little you'll also find out they are the simplest! Hope this info helped, good luck.
09-07-2003, 11:28 AM
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by pbrx7' date='Sep 3 2003, 12:32 PM
How you doing man. Try a real cheap and easy fix before you tear your motor down. I personally don't care for Mazdatrix but go to their website and order a fuel line bypass valve. I can't remember but I think it costs around $25. I think the problem your having is nothing more than bad primary fuel injectors. On 2nd gen rx7's the only thing in the fuel system to hold the pressure in the fuel line after the car is shut off is the injectors. Your's are probably leaking. If your on an extreme budget like myself, Nopi is a good place to get aftermarket injectors( good $ ). I think I bought Venom injectors there for around $45 a pop. Leave your primary's the original size, but go ahead and put high flow injectors in the secondary's. Doesn't cost much more. You'll have to remove the upper intake manifold so get the right gasket before you start the job. Pretty easy fix. Don't let rotary engines scare you man. They're the best engines made. If you work with them a little you'll also find out they are the simplest! Hope this info helped, good luck.
09-08-2003, 08:01 PM
#17
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Fort Polk, LA
Posts: 76
To 1revvin7,
Works great on mine. Add a little air and a little fuel, always makes power. Besides that, the message was intended to help a person out who is new to rotarys. More than likely he doesn't have a lot of money to spend. Spending thousands of dollars on rebuilds, piggyback ecu's, and all that other jazz isn't going to fix a weak spring in a fuel injector.
Works great on mine. Add a little air and a little fuel, always makes power. Besides that, the message was intended to help a person out who is new to rotarys. More than likely he doesn't have a lot of money to spend. Spending thousands of dollars on rebuilds, piggyback ecu's, and all that other jazz isn't going to fix a weak spring in a fuel injector.
01-29-2004, 09:38 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by pbrx7' date='Sep 8 2003, 08:01 PM
To 1revvin7,
Works great on mine. Add a little air and a little fuel, always makes power. Besides that, the message was intended to help a person out who is new to rotarys. More than likely he doesn't have a lot of money to spend. Spending thousands of dollars on rebuilds, piggyback ecu's, and all that other jazz isn't going to fix a weak spring in a fuel injector.
Works great on mine. Add a little air and a little fuel, always makes power. Besides that, the message was intended to help a person out who is new to rotarys. More than likely he doesn't have a lot of money to spend. Spending thousands of dollars on rebuilds, piggyback ecu's, and all that other jazz isn't going to fix a weak spring in a fuel injector.
03-23-2011, 03:32 AM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 3
I want to know if for the 2nd gen Turbos un-restricting the exhaust back-pressure can in anyway make the car lose compression or flood.
I have an 88 Turbo FC with a custom hi-flow cat (the pre-cat is drilled out) and an extra wide single pipe going to a Racing Beat stainless steel rotor-shaped exhaust.
123k miles. I've taken it to dealer to diagnosis and they said the fuel-injectors were running fine, but the engine itself had low compression and advised me to replace the whole thing. They didn't give me any compression numbers either... but when I took the spark-plugs out and cranked the seals sounded completely uniform. The problem is that it Needs a fuel-cut-switch to restart after warm-up, it gets strong gas smell in the oil and exhaust and only gets 16 mpg. Plus it's boggy at low rpm.
Short of a rebuild, I was just wondering (and didn't see this covered anywhere else) if having such a wide exhaust could in any way cause these symptoms or if it's just probably the rotor housings that are out of spec?
Thanks---
I have an 88 Turbo FC with a custom hi-flow cat (the pre-cat is drilled out) and an extra wide single pipe going to a Racing Beat stainless steel rotor-shaped exhaust.
123k miles. I've taken it to dealer to diagnosis and they said the fuel-injectors were running fine, but the engine itself had low compression and advised me to replace the whole thing. They didn't give me any compression numbers either... but when I took the spark-plugs out and cranked the seals sounded completely uniform. The problem is that it Needs a fuel-cut-switch to restart after warm-up, it gets strong gas smell in the oil and exhaust and only gets 16 mpg. Plus it's boggy at low rpm.
Short of a rebuild, I was just wondering (and didn't see this covered anywhere else) if having such a wide exhaust could in any way cause these symptoms or if it's just probably the rotor housings that are out of spec?
Thanks---
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