Jeff20B

Hey Ted, is it possible to hook two regular coils to a single ignition channel on the E6K? You know, like if you got three FC trailing coil assemblies or six new coils and hooked two coils to each ignition channel? The tendency to have trouble firing both plugs at the same time would be reduced significantly if each plug had its own coil. It all depends on the ignitors I suppose (trigger signal from ECU parallel into two ignitors at the same time).



For the intake manifold, I think it'd be best to use the alumi-solder stuff as a glue between both halves and then maybe add some bracing later with a TIG welder. It seems to me that it would be very difficult to TIG around all sides of all six runners. Yeah, I'll use the solder as a go-between to seal the two surfaces together, then decide if it will be physically sound enough at that point to need extra bracing or not..



I haven't gotten the engine back in the car yet (still modding tranny tunnel), but when I do, I'll start figuring out if modding the manifold is a good idea. If not, I'll look into FI.

RETed

The Haltech cannot fire the coils directly. You need some kinda ignitor in between. I think you can fire a pair 'o coils no problem through and ignitior. We're using the MSD DIS-4 as an ignitor right now, and we got high RPM ignition problems; we're going to try and run a pair 'o single towers after the DIS-4 to see if this helps.



Watch it if you're going to TIG over the aluminum solder stuff. Our Miller TIG230 did not like going over the old Alumi-Rite stuff at all.





-Ted

Jeff20B

That would be cool if a pair of single tower coils will work for you. There is someone on the other fourm currently trying to get an Autronic to work on his 20B. I suggested a similar idea for him to try.



Yeah, I was going to move the TIGed on braces as far from the aluminum solder stuff as possible, so as not to heat it up to cause it to melt or something. I was also going to fab a heat shield so the header won't have as much of a tendency to melt the solder.

l8t apex

I have this for the 13Brew......Is the DIS4 gonna lose spark at high RPMs?

Jeff20B

I can get the engine in but not the tranny yet. I think I'll try installing the tranny first and then see how hard it is to mate the engine up to it.

Jeff20B

That's all it took.



Maybe it's just me, but mating the 20B to the tranny was no more difficult than a 13B. It was all the work leading up to it that sucked.



There is a gaping hole where the front of the tranny tunnel used to be. Very easy access to the upper bellhousing bolts. It's almost a shame that I have to build a new tranny tunnel.



Time to see if option 3 will work.

Jeff20B

It looks like the carb should have a decent amount of room under the hood for an air cleaner... I think. gotta start chopping the manifold with a reciprocating saw. Too bad I couldn't use a rotary saw.

j9fd3s

curtains?

Jeff20B

Perhaps. I'll have to see if there is any flex when I get on it. Oh, and a new the gas pedal mount looks like it can easily be fabbed in order to keep the stock gas pedal.



Hey, I might have an easier solution to my manifold dilemma. I'll still keep the UIM 90º rotated, but not cut it at all. I'll have to fab a mini LIM so it connects the UIM to the engine. The only things I'm worried about are a possible drop in velocity, or a restriction in flow quality into the severly raked ports. It may indeed be best to cut and weld.



Meh, just getting the engine in (finally) is enough to celebrate, if only for a few minutes.

RETed

Um, I hate to break it to you, but a single MSD DIS-4 will not work to fire any 2-rotor.





-Ted