[quote name='Jeff20B' date='Apr 6 2005, 01:55 PM']The toyota TPS has a switch on the 4th wire which goes to ground letting the ECU know to go into idle mode.



I realised this morning that the thermo wax may be providing a false reading because it's holding the throttle open a little. Should I hook it up? Or cap the nipples on the engine? Does it really help with cold driving? My ECU has fast idle solenoid control and warm up enrichment. I'd prefer to not deal with the thermo wax because it'll be one less thing to go wrong.


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yeah it confuses the haltech too. on the haltechs its better to set the cold idle speed higher and use the bac valve, the e11 wouldnt go into high idle cold because the thermowax opened the throttle and the ecu didnt turn on the bac valve.

 

Cool! I went ahead and capped off the nipples on the engine then succesfully recalibrated the TPS so when it's fully closed, it's at 0%. Checking it again, I see the thermo wax was holding the primary open about 5 or 6%.



Can the engine run with the trottle all the way closed if the fast idle nipple is isn't sucking any air? Hey, should I connect the fast idle nipple to the oil filler tube? Then put a small filter on the other nipple down on th eintermediate plate? This would do a good job sucking steam out of the long oil filler tube and prevent rust or capuccino from forming. Thoughts?

 

Thinking about it some more, it would only suck when the fast idle solenoid was activated. What if I ran a hose from the oil filler tube to the intake elbow near the air temp sensor? Nah, because then a little oil would get sucked into the elbow every time I add oil to the engine. What's a good way to deal with PCV on a 20B?

 

[quote name='Jeff20B' date='Apr 7 2005, 01:54 AM']Thinking about it some more, it would only suck when the fast idle solenoid was activated. What if I ran a hose from the oil filler tube to the intake elbow near the air temp sensor? Nah, because then a little oil would get sucked into the elbow every time I add oil to the engine. What's a good way to deal with PCV on a 20B?


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the stock pcv nipple is on the bottom of the tb, i dont really under stand the pcv setup but theres a nipple on the bottom of the tb and one in front of the turbo, and a couple of check valves.



ive seen people drill a small hole in the oil filler cap too

 

Oh, so that nipple down there is actually for the PCV? Then that means the machined hole in front of the primary throttle blade is for the fast idle solenoid. Cool! Then I will go ahead and simply connect the oil filler tube to the PCV nipple. I believe the ECU will be able to compensate for the incoming air, and it should suck up any condensation inside the oil filler tube as well as a tiny bit of excess oil whenever I add some; just like my 13Bs do. As for the nipple on the intermediate plate, I'll connect it behind the air filter or something. Either way, my engine will have positive crankcase ventilation. No need for a PCV valve as far as I can tell.



If a ton of oil ends up getting sucked into the engine, I'll just drill a hole in the oil cap.

 

that should work fine i think

 

Cool!

 

I applied power last night and everything worked. I didn't connect the fuel pump for obvious reasons, but the relays and injectors clicked like they were supposed to. The tach jumps when I turn the key on. All I have left are fuel lines, getting the secondary rail to fit (it sticks out past the manifold and hits the firewall) and heater core hoses.



I decided that I won't finish the tranny tunnel myself. My cheap welder sends too many hot metal ***** flying which catches stuff on fire a little too easily. I'll just lay a floor mat over the exposed area and take it somewhere where sheet metal fabrication is their forte.



I hope it won't want to overheat when idling. If so, I'll have to fab some ducting. It cooled down when driven forward when it had a 13B (and a beehive). At least now I'll have an aftermarket mechanical temp guage as well as the one in my tuning software. The stock guage is hooked to the stock sender on the rear plate and it goes down to C when the key is turned on, but I have no idea if the temp curves are the same through its range.

 

[quote name='Jeff20B' date='Apr 8 2005, 02:23 PM'] The stock guage is hooked to the stock sender on the rear plate and it goes down to C when the key is turned on, but I have no idea if the temp curves are the same through its range.


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they most likely are.



congrats on getting everything clicking! this is a good thing!

 

Thanks. I set up a PC and was able to get a steady 100 cranking RPM in the tuning software. The stock tach bounces too. The injectors show pulse width and duty cycle when cranking, which is a good thing (no gas flowing through them yet), and the fast idle solenoid clicks like it's supposed to, too. Slow progress, but it's progressing.