Hehe I can't wait!

 

Hi All, I'm new to forums in general so please excuse me if i don't know all the lingo and protocol. First off, very interesting discussion. I'm looking at putting a 20b into a chevron classic ( lotus seven replica ) and I'm getting alot of useful info from the text and the pictures are great. Jeff20b, if the 20b is not in your glc yet could I impose apon you to give me dimensions of the complete engine? The nearest 20b to me is about 2000kms away and costs Aus$5500.00 so I'd like to get an idea of their size before I screw myself for the forseeable future. Cheers

 

The sandwich is supposedly 666mm long, and 12-14" wide without manifolds. The UIM (upper intake manifold) is 9" above the top of the engine. The oil pan sticks down a few inches. If you have a 13B handy, just ad 16CM to its length and there you go.



Sorry for using two different measuring systems. I don't like inches, but they're useful sometimes.



Did you read elsewhere on this forum about the stock twin turbos only giving about 5HP over natural aspiration with an aftermarket ECU? They weigh 62 pounds and caused my engine to lean to the side until I pulled them off.

 

In order to fit the dellorto, A serious angle is needed in the adaptor. Or I need a hollow space between the carb and UIM. It's gotta be 6x6x1".



Too bad I couldn't turn my Edelbrock 90°. The secondaries would flow right in. Only the primaries would need to flow into one runner.

 

I think I'll get an Atkins SC manifold after all. I gave the stock manifolds one last chance, and they'd work and fit under the hood pretty well with FI, but the dellorto just won't fit very well. It's also cheaper this way because I already have the carb, and it frees up the dellorto to go onto a 13B (I've been one carb short since rebuilding the 13B in the GLC). That means my MG will run again soon! All for the measily price of $250 or so for the manifold itself (plus whatever for a plate or aluminum). You can't beat that!

 

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I'm new to rotaries so I'm thinking of using the stock ecu to begin with. Given your info regarding the turbos, maybe I'd better rethink that one. No prob with metric or imperial, again I prefer metric but you cant help but run into both in this world. As I understand it, the 20b is based on the 13b - with an extra rotor. Cheers

 

Yep, just add 80mm for the rotor housing and another 80mm for the thick 20B-only intermediate and there you go.



I think I'll test fire the 20B with the dellorto tomorrow. The fabbed carb adaptor is pretty bad, but if it works, I'll be able to test the ignition.

 

ooOOooo that was fast

 

I'll test fire it in a little while.



I think I need to go over a check list.

All known vacuum leaks/nipples are capped or otherwise blocked. A 1st gen front cover mount is installed to give support at the front of the engine (I'll set it on blocks of wood and have the engine crane hooked up with slack as backup support if necessary). light steel flywheel installed. Bellhousing and starter installed.



It still needs some fabbed oil lines and a filter. I won't bother with an oil cooler yet. I should at least crank the engine until the rotors are filled with oil. I've got a Napa 1515 (equivilant Fram PH8A) on a remote filter adaptor. It should dilute the rest of the nasty black oil that was in the engine, thanks to the PO.



Should I bother with a radiator? Well, not yet unless it will fire up and run.



Still gotta hook up ignition wires. I'll do that after cranking with the plugs out to build up oil pressure.



I think my makeshift dipstick idea will work too.

 

id say just just let it drink water out of the hose or something, if you're only gonna be running it for a few minutes its prolly ok