20b In A Glc
10-17-2003, 03:42 PM
#491
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Sounds like my FMIC.The bottom of the IC sits 4.25" off the ground on level pavement. 
I still need a pair of 90's for it to connect to the turbo tho.Damn volvo FMIC is overkill in a first gen.I love it.
10-18-2003, 02:19 AM
#493
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Overkill is good. That's my whole philosomaphy. 20B in a GLC; 'nough said.
I hope hylomar can withstand 100PSI.
I probably should have tried to use 3/8" fittings instead of 1/4". There would be less restriction, and it's on the return line, so it's a good idea. Infact, I shouldn't have enlarged the filter blockoff holes, because it would have introduced a slight restriction after the bearings, but before the rear pressure reg, which would have been a good thing. Of course at the time, it was the right thing to do.
If I could afford another RB blockoff, I'd get it and save my modded one for an older engine which has the return line in the lower corner of the rear plate.
I'm also probably going to cut some 1/4NPT threads on the inside of a 90º 3/8 elbow fitting. It will look just like the one that's currently on the engine, but flow better (I need to take a pic for you guys some time). All I need is one more of those little brass fittings like I got the other day, and a bit of work, and I'm done.
You know what? I've noticed that I've had a tendency to go with plan B a lot lately. First the manifold, then the oil return line location, then the size of the fittings, to finally the header (not to mention the whole 13B vs 20B thing). I wonder how many more drawing boards I'll need to face?
I started testfitting some pipes for my header this evening. Instead of a log manifold, which would have simplified things, I've decided to use the 12A header that was already succesfully fitted to the car during its 13B phase, and mod it so it will still fit in the car and keep all the old clearances, but also have a third pipe.
Because the front of the engine has not changed location-wise, The front rotor pipe is fine where it is. The old rear rotor pipe is now the middle rotor, and is 30mm further rearward. I made the mistake of actually cutting out only 30mm of pipe from the top of the elbow instead of 40mm. You're like aren't you? Remember, it was a 12A header with ovaled holes to fit a 13B. Anyway, I was desperately trying to fit the header pipes on the 20B flange and having very little luck so I quit for the night... then it hit me - it should have been 40! So I'll probably be able to get back to it next week. Atleast the header should go together a bit more smoothly now.
I'm still worried about how to fit the rearmost pipe in with the other two, and to try to make it equal length as well. I have a few ideas, but I don't think it will really matter too much. It's going to be a short primary system based on the RB 12A header pipe lengths. It ought to flow well enough. Thoughts?
I hope hylomar can withstand 100PSI.
I probably should have tried to use 3/8" fittings instead of 1/4". There would be less restriction, and it's on the return line, so it's a good idea. Infact, I shouldn't have enlarged the filter blockoff holes, because it would have introduced a slight restriction after the bearings, but before the rear pressure reg, which would have been a good thing. Of course at the time, it was the right thing to do.
If I could afford another RB blockoff, I'd get it and save my modded one for an older engine which has the return line in the lower corner of the rear plate.
I'm also probably going to cut some 1/4NPT threads on the inside of a 90º 3/8 elbow fitting. It will look just like the one that's currently on the engine, but flow better (I need to take a pic for you guys some time). All I need is one more of those little brass fittings like I got the other day, and a bit of work, and I'm done.
You know what? I've noticed that I've had a tendency to go with plan B a lot lately. First the manifold, then the oil return line location, then the size of the fittings, to finally the header (not to mention the whole 13B vs 20B thing). I wonder how many more drawing boards I'll need to face?
I started testfitting some pipes for my header this evening. Instead of a log manifold, which would have simplified things, I've decided to use the 12A header that was already succesfully fitted to the car during its 13B phase, and mod it so it will still fit in the car and keep all the old clearances, but also have a third pipe.
Because the front of the engine has not changed location-wise, The front rotor pipe is fine where it is. The old rear rotor pipe is now the middle rotor, and is 30mm further rearward. I made the mistake of actually cutting out only 30mm of pipe from the top of the elbow instead of 40mm. You're like
I'm still worried about how to fit the rearmost pipe in with the other two, and to try to make it equal length as well. I have a few ideas, but I don't think it will really matter too much. It's going to be a short primary system based on the RB 12A header pipe lengths. It ought to flow well enough. Thoughts?
10-18-2003, 02:17 PM
#494
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
i think short head should work fine, hopefully be a little easier to package.
picking a over b is the whole trick to doing something like this, i didnt get everything right the first go around, but thats part of the fun
mike
picking a over b is the whole trick to doing something like this, i didnt get everything right the first go around, but thats part of the fun
mike
10-18-2003, 03:01 PM
#495
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I thought about having the third pipe snake down from the exhaust port parallel with the others to keep it as far away from the firewall as possible, and then have it elbow out and back in under the car right before the collector. That would add a couple inches. However, the flow would need to change direction like three times before entering the collector. I've got a couple 3" and 4" 180º elbow pipes to work with.
Hmm, I think I'll leave the third pipe unfinished and mount the engine and header in the car before I decide to use the elbow idea or not. It would be nice to have more or less equal length runners, but as of right now, I don't know how much header clearance I've got under the car. Yeah, the unequal length header may be a reality afterall. I'll check it out.
Hmm, I think I'll leave the third pipe unfinished and mount the engine and header in the car before I decide to use the elbow idea or not. It would be nice to have more or less equal length runners, but as of right now, I don't know how much header clearance I've got under the car. Yeah, the unequal length header may be a reality afterall. I'll check it out.
10-18-2003, 03:39 PM
#497
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 18 2003, 12:01 PM
I thought about having the third pipe snake down from the exhaust port parallel with the others to keep it as far away from the firewall as possible, and then have it elbow out and back in under the car right before the collector. That would add a couple inches. However, the flow would need to change direction like three times before entering the collector. I've got a couple 3" and 4" 180º elbow pipes to work with.
Hmm, I think I'll leave the third pipe unfinished and mount the engine and header in the car before I decide to use the elbow idea or not. It would be nice to have more or less equal length runners, but as of right now, I don't know how much header clearance I've got under the car. Yeah, the unequal length header may be a reality afterall. I'll check it out.
Hmm, I think I'll leave the third pipe unfinished and mount the engine and header in the car before I decide to use the elbow idea or not. It would be nice to have more or less equal length runners, but as of right now, I don't know how much header clearance I've got under the car. Yeah, the unequal length header may be a reality afterall. I'll check it out.
mike
10-18-2003, 05:12 PM
#499
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 18 2003, 12:50 PM
Cool! Then I'm off to get some more fittings, and when I get back, I'll be a professional again.
10-19-2003, 12:37 AM
#500
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
That's funny 'cause I was just thinking about snapping more pics tonight. I think I'll set up the equipment in a bit.
Speaking of a weird sounding idle with unequal length headers, my MG is like that. The front tube is longer than th rear tube. I think MG12A's header is a lot better and I might redesign mine some day, but for now, it'll get the job done.
Hmm, I was hoping for a wonderful exhaust note out of the 20B. I might go ahead and try to squeeze an extra elbow in there if it's at all possible. It's NA, so the flow is important (anti elbow), but I also want a rightous sound (pro elbow [yeesh, that doesn't sound right]). I know Lance Warren's HB Cosmo with the stock twins and modded stock ECU sounded excellent. My REPU sounds deep and throaty with all those old Rotary Engineering glasspacks. I hope a semi-unequal length header and two or three RE glasspacks from the REPU (heh, it's got 6!! on a long primary system) will do it justice. I guess I won't know untill I try it?
The MG sounded good with a very short primary system and a single RE glasspack, and it's not too loud out the back. Oh, and I think I found out what a tappet is.
Speaking of a weird sounding idle with unequal length headers, my MG is like that. The front tube is longer than th rear tube. I think MG12A's header is a lot better and I might redesign mine some day, but for now, it'll get the job done.
Hmm, I was hoping for a wonderful exhaust note out of the 20B. I might go ahead and try to squeeze an extra elbow in there if it's at all possible. It's NA, so the flow is important (anti elbow), but I also want a rightous sound (pro elbow [yeesh, that doesn't sound right]). I know Lance Warren's HB Cosmo with the stock twins and modded stock ECU sounded excellent. My REPU sounds deep and throaty with all those old Rotary Engineering glasspacks. I hope a semi-unequal length header and two or three RE glasspacks from the REPU (heh, it's got 6!! on a long primary system) will do it justice. I guess I won't know untill I try it?
The MG sounded good with a very short primary system and a single RE glasspack, and it's not too loud out the back. Oh, and I think I found out what a tappet is.