20b In A Glc
10-02-2003, 07:28 AM
#421
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 1 2003, 11:53 PM
Aside from working on the 13B that'll go into my MG, I started working on the intake side of the 20B. I figured out a way to block the primary injector holes. 
10-02-2003, 02:34 PM
#423
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Golf Tees. Kidding. Actually, I had some old 10mm x 1.25 and 1.5 bolts hanging around that had destroyed threads from people putting them in the wrong holes at the bottom of the bellhousing and starter. I cleaned them up and gooped some hylomar on the threads, then pushed them into some 3/8" fuel hose and pushed them into the injector holes. I'm going to fab a couple aluminum brackets to mimic the RB injector blockoff kit. Total cost is a couple cents in hylomar and materials.
After that, I can put the LIM on the engine and stuff. Oh, I also added a small C clamp on the upper arm of the engine stand. If you've seen the pictures, it's only on there with two arms. The upper arm looks like it was bending a little due to the weight that keeps getting added to the engine. So far it's moved about 2mm from adding the waterpump and flywheel. Better safe than sorry.
After that, I can put the LIM on the engine and stuff. Oh, I also added a small C clamp on the upper arm of the engine stand. If you've seen the pictures, it's only on there with two arms. The upper arm looks like it was bending a little due to the weight that keeps getting added to the engine. So far it's moved about 2mm from adding the waterpump and flywheel. Better safe than sorry.
10-02-2003, 05:52 PM
#424
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
You wouldn't know the bolt size and length for a 13b would yah jeff?That one the sits in front of the starter.I need to find one so I can put my starter back on my T2 motor.I still want pics of this motor in the bay BTW.
10-02-2003, 11:21 PM
#425
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
The one that fits in front of the starter on a T2? In front? Sorry, could you explain a little better? Or are you talking about the one long one that holds the starter onto the bellhousing? The one that goes through the tab on the rear plate, then goes through about 70mm of bellhousing, and finally through the mounting flange of the starter? The FC NA starters need a slightly longer bolt than the older style. They also need a nut where the older style starter has a threaded hole. Sorry to keep going on and on. Is that the bolt you're talking about?
This motor? The 20B? Soon.
This motor? The 20B? Soon.
10-03-2003, 07:41 AM
#426
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 2 2003, 08:21 PM
The one that fits in front of the starter on a T2? In front? Sorry, could you explain a little better? Or are you talking about the one long one that holds the starter onto the bellhousing? The one that goes through the tab on the rear plate, then goes through about 70mm of bellhousing, and finally through the mounting flange of the starter? The FC NA starters need a slightly longer bolt than the older style. They also need a nut where the older style starter has a threaded hole. Sorry to keep going on and on. Is that the bolt you're talking about?
This motor? The 20B? Soon.
This motor? The 20B? Soon.
10-03-2003, 02:56 PM
#427
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Ok, so far I've had success with an SAE bolt in my MG (NA FC starter and very little clearance). Then I found one that looks like will work better. I still don't have a stock one. The first one is 5" long and takes a 9/16 bolt. The threaded section goes the entire length and is very close in size to Mazda's 10mm x 1.25 and 1.5 bolts (with the 14mm heads). It's a common size bolt I think. At 5 inches, it's a little short, but still usable. This other one I found, which I haven't used yet, is 5 1/4" long and had a washer or two on it. Both washers are the cadmium plated Mazda style and fit with a tiny bit of slop. In my opinion, this 5 1/4 bolt is the better one to use, and probably came off of an FC starter at one point. The threaded section is a lot shorter too (making it a stronger bolt as well). It's going on my MG after the tranny swap.
I've found that an FB alternator bolt works fine on the 20B because it lacks the tab on the rear plate. I'm going to use an old AC bolt instead because it's slightly longer and will allow the use of an angle iron to block off the gaping hole down there. An alt bolt will be too short for your T2. Just try to find a bolt which has a 5 1/4 long shank (or whatever the shaft is called) and 5/16 diameter thread with a 9/16 bolt head and nut (for clearance to keep it near 14mm) and it'll work.
I've found that an FB alternator bolt works fine on the 20B because it lacks the tab on the rear plate. I'm going to use an old AC bolt instead because it's slightly longer and will allow the use of an angle iron to block off the gaping hole down there. An alt bolt will be too short for your T2. Just try to find a bolt which has a 5 1/4 long shank (or whatever the shaft is called) and 5/16 diameter thread with a 9/16 bolt head and nut (for clearance to keep it near 14mm) and it'll work.
10-04-2003, 03:09 AM
#428
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I found out I can't use my LIM, even if it's chopped. There's not enough room. In a way I'm almost glad because the AF mixture problem was really getting to me.
I'm not out of options yet. This pic shows an interesting 20B installation in a plane (Atkins, I think). That LIM may fit in my 'grounded' project.
I'm not out of options yet. This pic shows an interesting 20B installation in a plane (Atkins, I think). That LIM may fit in my 'grounded' project.