I got those two broken studs out, so I'm a happy camper. I also started on the oil pan baffle plate. It won't be a true baffle plate, but it'll probably work. I really should get some better quality sheet metal. Hmm, maybe I will and make a real baffle plate?



You know what? Lately, I've been having reaccuring thoughts about puting a 13B in the GLC. My ultimate goal is to the 20B in there of course. Hmm...



Oh, I know what I'll do. I'll get a loan and rebuild my R5 13B for my REPU, and put the old 13B in the GLC to get it running. Hear me out. The old REPU engine has a cast iron waterpump, 33LBS flywheel, heavy rotors, heavy carb (Hitachi with a cast iron baseplate), heavy early FB alternator, heavy (sort-of) 12A RB header that's been tweaked to fit a 13B (it came with the GLC). The rest will be used with the 20B, like the radiator, rotary glasspacks, etc.



What I'm basically trying to do is install the heaviest stock 13B I can, in order to gain an understanding of what the car can do with that amount of weight under the hood (the battery will remain under the hood for this test as well). Then when I put the 20B in it, the weight will stay the same, if not diminish slighty, but the power will increase muchly. I want to pull a j9fd3s, sorta. Or it will feel like a big dog that leans against you harder, or something. The car certainly won't weigh less than stock, but it will probably weigh the same, whether it's a 13B or a 20B under the hood.



Let's see here. Light steel flywheel vs stocker, FC aluminum waterpump vs REPU cast iron... well, those are the main ways to save weight. The rest are fairly close, like the lighter than stock carb, with a heavier than-a-stock 13B style manifold, etc (a 20B LIM isn't too heavy though). No battery up front should equal the weight of the 20B-only bearing cast-iron housing, if not more. The rotors are lighter by a little bit each. The extra rotor housing is like 14LBS or so. I feel like I'm repeating myself a little here, but moving the battery to the back will also offset the extra weight up front. Also, the engine's extra length is going rearward as well. That's something to remember if anyone out there is thinking about doing a 20B swap into something nobody else has ever done before. A 20B powered 323 has been done, but I've never seen any pictures or read any info about them.



Or maybe I'll just proceed with the 20B installation as planned?



I just get to thinking about things, and sometimes certain ideas don't make much sense. Lately, a 20B powered GLC just seems like over-kill. Then I drive a gutless 13B in a heavy vehicle (my REPU) and yearn for more power. So I'm going to remedy it by puting a very powerful, similar in weight (I'm guessing), engine into a completly different vehicle, for some reason. Too much crack for me.



Now that I know my 'blog' is actually read by a few people around here, I'd like to ask another question. Should I put the 20B in the GLC as soon as I can? As in, as soon as I know if it needs a rebuild or not? I am going to test run it pretty soon to see if it smokes. I guess I'll make my desicion after I get the engine to run.

 

AFAIK the FC doesnt have an aluminum water pump.

 

You're right. The housing is aluminum. The REPU's housing is cast iron. So is the waterpump. I could get an aluminum replacement for it, but it would have the dumb cookie cutter impeller. Those don't work as well as the cast iron impellers. Anyway, the aluminum FC housings are a lot lighter, and can shave a few LBS.

 

I've given it more thought. I think I'll probably go with a supercharger in my REPU so I won't have to cut it up. Infact, the only thing I may need to cut would be the little suspension cover where the camber shims are. That's it. The extra weight of the SC could be compensated a little with a light flywheel. The torque and power are already proven. It's jut a matter of coming up with the money. A deal like what I got on my 20B may never come again. Both being around $2500, I could either get an SC kit that can bolt right on, or a 20B that would still need lots of work. Atkins still sells their 5 and 7 inchers. Finding a 20B is sorta hit or miss.



I've just gotta get this 20B out of my system! As preposterous as it may sound to some (including myself at times), to put a 20B in a GLC, I guess it's something that I've gotta do.

 

If a 20B GLC is overkill at least it should keep you happy power wise.

 

yeah you gotta do it, besides you can always put a 13b back into later



mike

 

You're both right. I think the only hard parts of this swap will be welding the tranny tunnel back together, and building an exhaust; mainly because I've never done anything like that before.



I'm getting an air compressor today if all goes well time-wise. I'll finally be able to deal with those 54mm nuts in a quick and dirty way.

 

yeah the air makes the fly wheel nuts no big deal



mike

 

Too bad I don't live closer.I could weld that shut in a few hours.