83turbo

That steel washer/spacer rides against one thrust bearing. There should be a sleeve one the eccentric that sometimes moves and nails the bearing. There's also another thrust bearing behind the thrust plate. I'm not sure if this one can get out of place (maybe if the spacer sleeve slides forward enough)



As for the cross member - I have no idea what the problem would be just getting the 13B to 12A chassis motor mount bracket.

Dysfnctnl85

I don't either, so **** that guy he's not getting my business for his $130 crossmember.



I'll check the motor THOROUGHLY tonight, but the only thing that was "off" was that spacer behind the counterweight.

Dysfnctnl85

I bit the bullet and purchased my oil pan and front cover engine mount from Mazdatrix.

Jeff20B

At least they'll be new. No cleaning required.

Dysfnctnl85

Anyone else have input on this?

Jeff20B

You could. Just line up everything so you can transfer the Cosmo marks onto the 12A pulley. Or I guess you could use the Cosmo pulley if you want to slot one of the holes 5 degrees (it's to prevent installing the pulley 90 or 180 degrees out).



Throw the cosmo hub in first. Rotate the engine so the L mark is at the pin. Then switch to the 12A hub and see where the 12A or Cosmo L mark is at. I bet there'll be a difference because there was on mine.



I kept the 20B hub and installed an S4 FC pulley and redid the marks because the FC marks didn't line up with the 12A or Cosmo marks. I rotated the engine 5 degrees to get right on 0 (TDC) for NA use. Then I compared it to my 12A and FC pullies. Neither were on the L mark so I blackened the marks on the FC pulley and made new ones with a file and some White Out. The new L mark ended up being about 7 or 8 degrees from the stock L mark, which is kinda weird. Maybe it's because I have a 20B hub? Or maybe the pullies are just that much different from each other? Who knows at this point, but my engine did run on the static timing I set, so I guess I did something right.



So which pulley will you use? Feel like dealing with that funky 6 or 7 PK serpentine belt? I just went with good old S4 V belt action.

Dysfnctnl85

Well I understood little of what you explained, which I'm sure is very valuable.



This is the first time I've ever worked on a motor.



I was also wondering if it was worth it to use the old pulleys, or should I just buy a new main drive pulley?



So the marks you're talking about are just timing marks, which could easily be transferred to the 12a pulley. The only thing is, as you can see from my pics, I have like 18 pulleys, LOL.



I don't know which ones go to accessories I don't have, or what! I don't plan on having A/C, I don't even use it in my DD, and I know I don't have power steering...what does that leave? Water pump, main drive, and alternator?

setzep

Factory pullies work good for me. Some day I would like to get a bigger alt pulley though so I'm not spinning it a billion rpm.



In the pic you can see how the V-belt part fo the main pulley can be taken off. Just pops off with it removed from the hub.

Dysfnctnl85

Thanks for the pic, I'm sure it will make more since once I put the engine back together...that fuel setup looks crazy, how/why did you do all that?



I'm thinking about getting a FPR, I figured it's a necessity for what I'm doing...can you all advise me on that?



Also, what size piping did you use for the exhaust manifold? I know you told me but I've forgotten.

setzep

I did all the lines so I can run the fuel in parallel instead of series. So instead of the fuel having to go through the primary rail THEN the secondary rail it goes through both at the same time.



You don't have to get a aftermarket regulator if you don't want to. I ran the stock one and it worked just fine.



Exhaust header has a ID of 1.69" It's schedule 10, 1 1/5" pipe