I just wanted to keep you guys posted and to let you know I AM making progress. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



I just started my Co-op job this past week (5/17) and working 8-5 has made me tired to say the least.



This weekend I got my TII shift rod modified and put back in; I'm waiting for the shift rod tube to be welded back together. I also got my entire intake manifold back from the powder coater. My dad picked out the color (he knows the shop owner), it's gray. I wasn't crazy about it at first, but I'm really liking how clean it looks now. The only thing I SORT OF regret is not getting the TB done. I got the elbow done, so the TB is going to stick out. In retrospect, it would be a major bitch to disassemble and reassemble that mother. I'll post some pics after they get developed.



I've been wet sanding my front cover in the meantime, I also tapped it for the oil return line per someone's suggestion in an older thread...it's in the same location as some supercharger kit's return line. This wet sanding is tedius, but it looks damn sexy in the areas I've completed so far.



This week I'm going to have the clutch made as soon as I receive my TII flywheel from A3D-illusion. Specialty Clutch here in Atlanta is going to make me a 6-puck sprung hub clutch that the owner swears will engage easily and harsh when I want it to. He really knows his stuff. He's going to lighten the flywheel a bit and resurface it as well. All for a mere $230 with a guarantee on performance. Hopefully that will allow me to avoid DirectFreak's clutch-shattering problem, hehe. He convinced me not to go with a light-weight flywheel simply because he said they rob torque. Like I said, he knows his stuff so I assume he has made a valid point. At any rate, it will save me a lot of money getting a custom clutch rather than ordering an ACT.



My large NPR intercooler is supposed to be in Wednesday, so it should be a big week for the car. I hope to have the engine in this weekend, then I can order the turbo (after payday this week) and begin work on the exhaust manifold.



Sorry for the novel! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

sounds like everything's goin smoothly, cant wait 2 see those pics of the thing's your talking about....where'd u get that motor again and how much did u pay?

Rotary Works, Inc.



It ended up being $2200 for the engine and an S4 TII trans.

My hands are pissed at me because of this...

But it's getting there...

I'll go over once again and then spray it with clear coat.

Lastly, WTF is supposed to go here?? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

Block off plate, the ACV went there.



looks like you need some new fasteners to hold on all your clean parts https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Yeah I was wondering what I could do about that...the bolts are pretty ugly if you know what I mean.



So I need to put a block of plate there?

Oh cmon, I can make that. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

why bother?

It'll save me $20 and I can do it in my garage tomorrow.

you can put the hardware in a partswasher...wirewheel+drill works for me

I got my clutch made yesterday as well as my flywheel resurfaced and pressure plate treated...



I also got my NPR intercooler...but it's warped to hell and I'm pissed off. I'm in the process of trying to get my money back...I'm going to take it to a shop and see what they think today. I'll post pics later.

Pressure plate (reworked S4 TII):

Pressure plate, other side:

6 puck, sprung hub clutch made by Specialty Clutch:

Resurfaced and lightened flywheel (S4 TII):

Powder coated intake manifold:

Another view of the powder coat:

Front cover ready for clearcoat:

Front cover with oil return fitting:

My disgusting intercooler in case you didn't catch the GenD thread...I'm trying to a) get my money back or b) bend the thing back.

Oh I forgot to mention, all these pics were taken with a Sony Mavica...low res, simply to get them up here...but I've taken a lot of pictures with my SLR which I plan to put on my website when this is all said and done, complete with a guide on how I did the swap.

Looks like I'll be getting my money back for the intercooler soon...

i could do it at school in 5 minutes...maybe less.

Question about the S4 flywheel on a cosmo motor. Is the rotating mass in the cosmo the same as the REW's? I thought the S5, REW and RE motors used the same rotating mass and the flywheels where interchangable but the S4 stuff is weighted different. Or is your rotating assembly S4?

chuck

Chuck that was discussed in the rotary building forum (Dysfnctnl85 started another thread) and the S4 flywheel can't go with an S5 style rotating ass'y.



I'm glad to see you changed your mind on the flywheel use! You won't regret your lighter one, I'm sure.. I caught alot of flak for the same idea that a lighter flywheel was taking away torque.



I can't wait to see your car finished man. It's already ******* awesome.

I *gasp* orderd the flywheel from Rotary Xecret 7...it's not getting here until the 7th according to UPS. What BS.



Oh well. I need to get that front cover off anyways. And figure out how it gets put together.



I will post pics tomorrow of the sandblasted 12a front cover, since I really screwed up the clear coat after all that time I spent on it...



My inline Walbro should be here by Friday.

Your "expert" was wrong about both the flywheel weight and the clutch drivability. A sprung puck clutch is easier to drive than a stock disc with a HD pressure plate. It took a lot of getting used to for me, but that was more because my old setup was so weird feeling. I have an easier time going to other cars with stock clutches now than when i had the stock disc.



Puck clutches are a piece of cake to drive. The only real difference is a very narrow engagement range.



Lightweight flywheels make the car SO much more responsive. My car felt overweight and sluggish until I put in a 10 lb flywheel. It completely transformed the car. And its as easy to drive as stock on my ~2700 lb FC. The lighter the car is, the less flywheel mass is needed to make the car easy to drive. Its a little late now, but you should have gone with the lightest flywheel you could.



Just how does changing the weight of the flywheel affect engine power? It doesnt at all. You actually may see a slight increase in power from the reduced drivetrain losses. Heavy flywheels make it easier to drive heavy cars. Light cars can get away with much lighter flywheels than heavy cars. If I could find a 5 lb flywheel for my FC, Id get it in a heartbeat.



BTW, Im looking forward to seeing your car.

FWIW, the flywheel is 13lbs (the ACT).



I've read on other forums about how lightweight flywheels compromise top end power to a certain extent, but I don't know enough to make a solid decision, that's why I at first followed his advice.

ive driven a couple of puck clutch cars that were really easy (rebuilt os gieken was like stock!) and a couple that sucked ass! (my 20b with the heavy act pp)



my beef with a puck clutch is that i always forget its there....

All I know is my 20B revs like Paul Ko's, so I must have done something right. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

yeah i'm trying to decide weather i'm going na or big single with mine

I got the bitch off!



An outboard mechanic gave me some advice: hit on the bolt with a hammer. That's how you get old/corroded bolts out.



Wrapped on the thing a few times, got a cheater bar, and it came right off. I hope I didn't damage the spacer, I was sooo careful...I didn't hear anything fall or what-not and the motor was sitting on the flywheel side.

Look who needs an engine stand!

Sandblasted front cover...

Now my question is, how do I remove parts of the CAS to put in my 12 a front cover? Is there like a FAQ on this somewhere? I definitely don't want to break anything.

Wider shot of the inside of the Cosmo front cover...