just take it out?

Where the sensor enters the front cover, how should I go about removing that, how does the sensor itself come out, half out of the cover and half in?

Just slide it out from the top.

Look at your 1mm thick spacer. It might have dents from the needle bearings. Don't ask me how mine got dented once. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

Uhhh, where is it? Is this thing even visible?

I would LOVE to see how someone got the CAS to fit in the 12a front cover.



I'm about to cry.

i dont get it, they are the same except the dizzy has a cap and some slightly different guts

Yeah I'm kidding, that was the easiest thing I've done with this swap so far. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

lol, you had me for a second there...

Getting the control box back on the shift knob is driving me nuts, I had to take a break from it, seriously.

What size fitting is that on your front cover? Looks like -10 but what size pipe thread on the other side? I hope you say 1/2"npt.

It's 3/8".



I can't exactly remember why we got 3/8"..the hole is 1/2", if that makes sense... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

I busted this up trying to get the 19mm bolt off. The one from my 12a (I don't know what the part is called), looks exactly the same, is it alright for me to use that part on the Cosmo?

Comparison.

Should I be worried about what looks like a manufactured hole in the housing (at the bottom)? I mean it looks like it's supposed to be that way...is that why DF has a scatter shield? LOL.

One last thing, do you all think it's cost-effective to get a new main drive pulley?

theres a little cover that goes over the hole

On the motor? Or is this something else I'm missing? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

it would appear that its missing

The thing you broke looks like the crank pulley hub. The 12A one will

fit but check the bolt pattern with the pulley you want to use.

Having said that - removing this part can be a bad thing, as it allows

things to slide on the eccentric shaft and drop a thrust bearing off

the spacer it sits on. Then when you tighten the pulley bolt, the bearing

gets crushed.

What does the thrust bearing look like?



I looked for this phantom spacer when I took the cover off of the Cosmo...I set the engine on the flywheel side as a precaution so I don't believe I messed anything up...

ahh, man, you went with 3/8" pipe fitting for the return? I woulden't go with anything less then a 1/2" npt, bigger if possible.



For the main pulley, you can take off the two V-belt groove parts. Pop them off with a screwdriver.

I wish I could remember why I did it, I honestly can't. But the difference in ID is negligible, is it really going to have a bad effect? I don't even know how fast oil circulates through a turbo anyway...V-belt grooves?

That fantom spacer is probably the 1mm thick one I mentioned earlier. I dented mine up pretty bady when I first started trying to remove the 19mm bolt. I guess I dislodged the threadlock though because the 19mm bolt ended up loosening when I applied brute force with a very long breaker bar.



Since then, I've gone with an impact wrench because I got an air compressor. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



About the main drive pulley hub, the 12A one has all four holes the same distance apart. Any '86 or later hub has one hole 5mm offset to prevent the pulley from being installed 90 or 180 degrees off. Also, the L and T marks on the 12A pulley are in a different position than the Cosmo pulley. I only know this because I marked a 12A pulley every 120º to test a 20B ignition system on an old 13B. Then I got an FC pulley and compared everything. Then I compared them to my Cosmo pulley. Differences galore.



Hmm, since your Cosmo engine is a 13B, I'd think any old FC hub would work. I'm not sure about a 20B hub, but I'd suspect it'd be the same as well (Mazda's parts bin). Perhaps Judge Ito would know since he's done a couple Cosmo engines in his day.

Mazda uses 10mm ID oil galleys. You could probably get away with 3/8" fittings since it's close to 10mm. Is it possible to hog out the insides of the fittings a little?

So you're saying I can't use the 12a hub?



The walls are pretty thing on the fitting, that'd be the only problem...is there really going to be an issue with having that small of a size difference?

So I went out in the garage to work on the car and found out my dad MOVED THE ENGINE!



I checked the spacer (I finally found it) and it was off a little bit. It didn't however look like it had been damaged. My dad swears he didn't hear anything hit it.



Am I okay?

Got the new fuel pump in the stockers' location. I just need some fittings now and some new hoses, everything is looking dry-rotted.

I also got the tranny put back together...shifts through all the gears, so I'm happy about getting that done. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

the 12a marks are 0L and -15btdc T, 13b is -5 btdc L and -20btdc T. i think the fc belt pulleys will bolt to the hub on the cosmo, i think we tried it

The hub I have will bolt right up, I'm confused as to what the problem would be? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

As far as gaskets go, can I just pick up some gasket material from any old auto parts store?

I got a roll of gasket material at the local parts store and spent a night with a exacto knife to make most of my gaskets.

Mmmm...shiny.



Setzep: I will pick some up tomorrow and get started. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Your Cosmo engine will love that! Mine will have to make due with a somewhat used RB flywheel.

Well you did the right thing by orienting the engine shaft up for pulley removal. Moving the engine may present a problem. Which way is the shaft pointing now?



I think the spacer Jeff20B mentioned is the copper washer under the bolt (am I right?)... This isn't the one I was referring to. Inside the front cover, under the counterweight, there's a thrust bearing (flat roller bearing) that rides between the counterweight and the thrust plate. On the other side of the thrust plate is another thrust bearing. The ID of the bearings is larger than the eccentric shaft. There's a little sleave that fits onto the shaft that the bearings fit over. This is where you can get into trouble.



Here's a link: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

I was talking about the flat steel 1mm one you're talking about that fits in the recess on the back side of the counterweight.

Yeah I identified the washing thing you are talking about. It *looks* just fine. It fits right in where it's supposed to and looks just like the RB picture. I rotated the washer to double check its flatness.



I think I'm okay? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png



I appreciate the help, as always. I should make that my sig: thanks for the help!



LOL



*EDIT* As soon as I saw the engine out of place, we moved it back into its upright position. Would my father have heard the counterweight slide and bang up that washer/spacer?

Wow, I just got an earful from a Mazda parts dealer about how I should change the crossmember and not just get the special front cover-style mount.



What's the deal?

Those usually stick in place due to oil film