That steel washer/spacer rides against one thrust bearing. There should be a sleeve one the eccentric that sometimes moves and nails the bearing. There's also another thrust bearing behind the thrust plate. I'm not sure if this one can get out of place (maybe if the spacer sleeve slides forward enough)



As for the cross member - I have no idea what the problem would be just getting the 13B to 12A chassis motor mount bracket.

I don't either, so **** that guy he's not getting my business for his $130 crossmember.



I'll check the motor THOROUGHLY tonight, but the only thing that was "off" was that spacer behind the counterweight.

I bit the bullet and purchased my oil pan and front cover engine mount from Mazdatrix.

At least they'll be new. No cleaning required.

Anyone else have input on this?

You could. Just line up everything so you can transfer the Cosmo marks onto the 12A pulley. Or I guess you could use the Cosmo pulley if you want to slot one of the holes 5 degrees (it's to prevent installing the pulley 90 or 180 degrees out).



Throw the cosmo hub in first. Rotate the engine so the L mark is at the pin. Then switch to the 12A hub and see where the 12A or Cosmo L mark is at. I bet there'll be a difference because there was on mine.



I kept the 20B hub and installed an S4 FC pulley and redid the marks because the FC marks didn't line up with the 12A or Cosmo marks. I rotated the engine 5 degrees to get right on 0 (TDC) for NA use. Then I compared it to my 12A and FC pullies. Neither were on the L mark so I blackened the marks on the FC pulley and made new ones with a file and some White Out. The new L mark ended up being about 7 or 8 degrees from the stock L mark, which is kinda weird. Maybe it's because I have a 20B hub? Or maybe the pullies are just that much different from each other? Who knows at this point, but my engine did run on the static timing I set, so I guess I did something right.



So which pulley will you use? Feel like dealing with that funky 6 or 7 PK serpentine belt? I just went with good old S4 V belt action. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Well I understood little of what you explained, which I'm sure is very valuable.



This is the first time I've ever worked on a motor.



I was also wondering if it was worth it to use the old pulleys, or should I just buy a new main drive pulley?



So the marks you're talking about are just timing marks, which could easily be transferred to the 12a pulley. The only thing is, as you can see from my pics, I have like 18 pulleys, LOL.



I don't know which ones go to accessories I don't have, or what! I don't plan on having A/C, I don't even use it in my DD, and I know I don't have power steering...what does that leave? Water pump, main drive, and alternator?

Factory pullies work good for me. Some day I would like to get a bigger alt pulley though so I'm not spinning it a billion rpm.



In the pic you can see how the V-belt part fo the main pulley can be taken off. Just pops off with it removed from the hub.

Thanks for the pic, I'm sure it will make more since once I put the engine back together...that fuel setup looks crazy, how/why did you do all that?



I'm thinking about getting a FPR, I figured it's a necessity for what I'm doing...can you all advise me on that?



Also, what size piping did you use for the exhaust manifold? I know you told me but I've forgotten.

I did all the lines so I can run the fuel in parallel instead of series. So instead of the fuel having to go through the primary rail THEN the secondary rail it goes through both at the same time.



You don't have to get a aftermarket regulator if you don't want to. I ran the stock one and it worked just fine.



Exhaust header has a ID of 1.69" It's schedule 10, 1 1/5" pipe

Thanks for the size info, this will make ordering the materials a lot easier.



I had no idea that's how the fuel system worked...how does that even make sense? Do you have more pics of this setup?



I don't even think I have FPR...I mean, I do have a GS. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Here is a little diagram I whipped up for you.



If you have the stock fuel rails then you have a fuel pressure regulator. It's the thing on your secondary rail on the firewall side.

Sweet drawing dude, thanks a million.

Why did you go with steel lines instead of AN? Is that what's best for fuel? Did it come in a coil and what size is it?



I've got more questions if you'd like...



Such as, what are the advantages of your fuel setup compared to the stock one, and why did Mazda even do what they did with one rail receiving fuel before the other?



It just occurred to me that I have no fuel lines for the motor at all!

all the fuel stuff is sitting on top of the engine, silly

Negative, my engine didn't have any of that assembled, it was all in a box. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Another thought - anyone know if the eccentric shaft oil pellet mod applies to the Cosmo engine? I would assume so.

yeah 86+

All 86+ engines, which includes the RE you have.

The 20B doesn't have one.



100 posts in this thread!

The head scratch was for "oil pellet mod." WTF?

I went with aluminum lines for a few reasons. Cost, I got a 25' coil of this stuff for ~20 bucks if I remember right. Ever price out 20' of the "AN" line not to mention the hose ends. With the line I can bend it to suit, no floppy hoses. When it's all said and done it's a cleaner install. The only benefit rubber lines have is maybe a little pulsation dampening and they won't absorb heat as well. For me the alumn lines was a clear choice, I had the tools and the parts in my garage for basically free.



With a parellel fuel rail setup you have a bit less pressure drop and maybe a bit better pulsation dampening. One reason I'm guessing why Mazda didn't do it is because the extra materials that would have to be used.



Ouch, that sucks that you don't have either of the stock fuel rails. Good luck finding a set or maybe have a set made.

yeah an lines will saw thru anything they touch! and they are expensive! and need all kinds of wierd fittings that dont fit in the space you have, i dont mean to get off on a rant here.....

I'd rather use NPT fittings with barbed ends and rubber hoses, to be perfectly honest. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I have the fuel railes, I don't have any lines to run from the rails to the lines coming into the engine bay.



So what's the best setup here, aluminum, AN, or rubber hoses?

I'm not sure which is THE BEST, but I kinda like NPT stuff. It's personal preference since they all do pretty much the same thing. I think AN stuff is more reliable, and a lot more expensive.

since you have the fuel rails I'd just run a hose from the cars lines to the rails.

Hoses it is. I don't know when my Mazdatrix parts are coming...I ordered them on Monday (the 7th) and I've only gotten an order confirmation. I don't know if I'm supposed to get shipping info or what...this is a crock!



I should have my SHINY NEW NPR on Monday. I STILL haven't gotten my money back for the bent one...I think I'm just going to bend it back, have it flow tested, and sell it. It should be fine, but mounting it would be a problem...I'm sure I can bend it back.

When you removed the front pulley bolt, was there a spring and a copper pellet

thing? If so, you are afflicted with the much loathed "thermal pellet".

It's a warm up related item that often fails and does mean things to engines.

Atkins and others sell an aluminum plug that replaces the pellet. I've heard

you can accomplish the same with a few washers.



As for the fuel lines, I'd probably go with stainless steel line over aluminum (for

abrasion resistance) - but it's harder to work and costs more.

Also you might want to look into Russel Twist-lock or Aeroquip Socketless

hose and fittings. The fittings are AN, but the stuff is cheaper. I made my

oil cooler lines with the hose (#8 hose on the stock fittings - very tight fit).

AN is good but isn't totally immune to failure. I have a couple of them that

have been a real pain. I do prefer something I can easily disassemble though.



As for rubber hose, be sure it's SAE30R9 (high pressure) as opposed to the

SAE30R7 (low pressure) they may try to sell you. The hose should be marked.

Thanks, I'm gonna go check out the motor right now since it still doesn't have the front cover on it...

Would this be it?

Pic #2.

that's it, I added I think 5 7mm washers to it.

You kept the spring in by put washers inside that portion of the shaft? Before or after the spring?

Any new developments on the pulley issue?

The washers go on the right side of your pic over the shaft part, not on the spring side.



Here is a link to show the thrust washer issue when removing the front pulley hub. http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

I think the thrust washer's gonna be okay, it wasn't warped or anything, so hopefully I'm in the clear.

It will only warp if you tighten it when it's out of place. Ditto for the thrust bearings.

Excellent, I will be very careful when putting the front cover on...but in order to do that I need my oil pan!



Still no shipping confirmation from MazdaTrix, WTF?