1st Generation Specific 1979-1985 Discussion

Pilot Bearing - Does this come out?

Old Jan 29, 2006 | 05:16 AM
  #1  
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I'm trying to pull my pilot bearing. I've never done this before. I pulled the innards out with a bearing tool and a slide hammer. However, I can't seem to get the casing out. Moreover, I'm not even sure if it is supposed to come out. When I stick my pinky into the hole, I can feel a lip on the back side of what I think is the bearing casing. However, there is no lip on the front.



Take a look at the picture and tell me if this is supposed to come out.



BTW, the new Pilot bearing wont fit as it is, but I don't want to be pulling parts out of there unless they need to be pulled. Like I said, I've never done this before so some help would be greatly appeciated. Oh, and the vehicle is an '81 RX-7...



Thanks,



Tazz



(img)http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/tazzman69/PilotBearingarrows.jpg(/img)



EDIT: Thats a BIG image.. resized
Old Jan 29, 2006 | 01:20 PM
  #2  
partly mazda's Avatar
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when you get to this point you need a die grinder to cut the rest of that shell out. Just be very careful not to cut into the shaft to much. make a cut on one side and peel it out with a small chizel

john
Old Jan 29, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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A normal pilot bushing tool can't get a grip on the Mazda pilot bearings. Like partly mazda said, you'll need to cut/chisel it out while being careful not to tear up your eccentric shaft. Or you can blow a bunch of money on Mazdatrix's modified pilot bearing tool. I'm cheap, so I use a wannabe dremel on mine.
Old Jan 30, 2006 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by BeaterRX7' post='797612' date='Jan 29 2006, 01:56 PM
A normal pilot bushing tool can't get a grip on the Mazda pilot bearings. Like partly mazda said, you'll need to cut/chisel it out while being careful not to tear up your eccentric shaft. Or you can blow a bunch of money on Mazdatrix's modified pilot bearing tool. I'm cheap, so I use a wannabe dremel on mine.


Well, I tried to pull it out using the slide hammer and bearing tool remover tool. Unfortunately, The tool snapped in half, and the bearing casing didn't budge. I have tried the hydrolic fliud method, the TP method, the soak with wd-40 method, and the heat and Ice method. I was going to try the washer-behind-the-bearing method, but I can't seem to find a way to get a washer and nut to keep from turning inside the flywheel once inserted. The bolt just turns the nut, getting me no where.



So, now it's down to my final option - The dremel. I have a pretty good selection of bits to choose from, but I'm just dreading doing it this way when I really don't know what I'm doing. I guess I'll give it a try... So what happens if I screw up and damage the E-shaft?



Thanks,



Tazz
Old Jan 30, 2006 | 02:43 AM
  #5  
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The only way you can really damage the E-Shaft is if you cut into it or nick it or whatever. Its not really THAT sensative, but you should take care not to hurt it too much.



Use a dremel/die grinder/something and just cut a slit in the side of the casing. Imagine the casing as a pop can with the ends cut off, just a hollow cylinder. Just cut it length wise down the side. Then you can use a chisel or something to get under it easier and pop it out.



If you cut too far and nick the shaft too bad, use some sand paper or something and smooth it down again. Then, when you install the new bearing, use some Loctite brand bearing retaining cement. Somewhat hard to find, but worth it. Check their website, Loctite is made by Permatex. Youre NOT looking for thread locker, they make a special stuff for bearings to keep them from spinning in their mounting places. I use the stuff all the time when I rebuild diffs for my 4x4s on the carrier bearing caps and such, works great. I would go look at my bottle, but I couldnt read it even if I wanted to go out to the shop now, haha.



Anyway, good luck, Im sure it will go ok. Its not that hard of a job really, just a little nerve racking the first time.



~T.J.



PS - I tried the toilet paper trick on my Ford when I put a new clutch in that as a first try since I had forgotten my bearing puller at my other shop and didnt want to go rent one. I had always wanted to try it and figured what the hell. Ill be damned if that **** doesnt work! Talk about cool! The trick is to use LOTS of TP, and a fairly heavy hammer. I just packed it in with the square end of a 3" 3/8" drive extension. It comes out the sides of the square, but eventually it popped out. Trying to use something that fits the exact same size as the hole doesnt work as well for some reason I found out. Anyway, thanks to whoever put that little bit of info into my head so long ago!
Old Jan 31, 2006 | 06:41 AM
  #6  
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Thanks for all the replies :-) I finally bit the bullet, got out my dremel, and cut the son of a &^%$# loose. It took alot of work, a sharpened Flathead screwdriver, and a small hammer, but it came out. I did do a little damage to the e-Shaft, but upon putting the new pilot bearing in, I really don't think it will be a problem.



I had to use a 14mm socket and hammer to get the new Pilot in, even after I lubed the crap out if it. And, Yes, I'm certain I got all of the old pilot out. It was just a tight fit.



Next I went to install my new clutch, which I have determined to be the wrong size. So, back to the drawingboard...







Tazz
Old Jan 31, 2006 | 04:06 PM
  #7  
1st gen's Avatar
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the only way is a diegrinder cut it to bits
Old Jan 31, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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I wonder why mine came out easy as pie
Old Feb 4, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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my pilot bearing was a pain to get out becuase when i was pulling the flywheel, it was still in there. needless to say i was nice and jammed. I guess it just changes with how you approach the process.
Old Feb 4, 2006 | 08:11 PM
  #10  
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Pilot bearings are a huge PITA. You just have to keep working at it.
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