How Much Boost?
#4
If you want to run a lot of boost, I'd suggest doing it how I did, keep it around 12psi for most of the time, and only take it up to 16psi during races and at the track. Also, make sure it's tuned good before you turn up the boost. I didn't, and ended up splitting 5 corner seals in 1/2, and 2 side seals broke too. It didn't make any difference in power, and when I did a compression check it was still great, dropped about 2-3psi on each rotor face from where it was before I put on the turbo. But when I took it apart to streetport it I saw the damage it had done. But I detonated it quite a bit, at least 20-30 times.
#5
Look at the dowel pin area under the oil filter. Some have a ridge,
some don't. It's a desirable feature - without it the dowel pin
area can crack and make a big oil mess. I believe this is the big
difference between S4 and S5 13B's. GSL-SE engines don't have it, nor
do late 12A's.
Old 1970's 12A's do. Also the housings that do are typically heavier
than those without.
I don't know if this comes into play at your power levels. My 4 port
13B was okay with the weaker housings until I went to a 60-1 turbo.
Then I broke a housing after a while, swapped in the spare motor, and
broke that one the first time I floored it. No other engine damage
occurred - just swapped a new housing and ran it again.
some don't. It's a desirable feature - without it the dowel pin
area can crack and make a big oil mess. I believe this is the big
difference between S4 and S5 13B's. GSL-SE engines don't have it, nor
do late 12A's.
Old 1970's 12A's do. Also the housings that do are typically heavier
than those without.
I don't know if this comes into play at your power levels. My 4 port
13B was okay with the weaker housings until I went to a 60-1 turbo.
Then I broke a housing after a while, swapped in the spare motor, and
broke that one the first time I floored it. No other engine damage
occurred - just swapped a new housing and ran it again.
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