13b turbo 1st gen
Generally speaking you want to retard the tiiming 1 degree per one pound of boost. I not sure how you could accomplish that with a locked dizzy. Because it would only be right on, in one point of the rpm. You walking a thin line going that route.
What are you running for a motor, fuel euc, injectors, etc.
I run my T2 FB with a full S-5 ecu, and harness, The parts are relatively cheap compared to a rebuilt. They should make a rule if you want to boost a FB run with full engine mangement.
What are you running for a motor, fuel euc, injectors, etc.
I run my T2 FB with a full S-5 ecu, and harness, The parts are relatively cheap compared to a rebuilt. They should make a rule if you want to boost a FB run with full engine mangement.
if you pull the distributor apart, its pretty straight forward to see whats what. it just needs two little welds.
if you're not locked, you need to set the timing over 4000rpms, thats where its fully advanced.
if you're not locked, you need to set the timing over 4000rpms, thats where its fully advanced.
my setup is a turbo 2 motor with aftermarket turbo, 1000cc injectors all around, haltech f10, aeromotive fpr, coolingmist methanol kit with controller with no intercooler and thats it for now. bidding on msd boost retard box and also planning on getting two msd boxes.
also wanted to know if i can keep my stock carbureted tank back with a high pressure external pump or do i need to modify a few things for that
if u guys have any input that would be helpful i would appreciate thanks guys.
also wanted to know if i can keep my stock carbureted tank back with a high pressure external pump or do i need to modify a few things for that
if u guys have any input that would be helpful i would appreciate thanks guys.
Originally Posted by drewrey2004' post='842752' date='Oct 27 2006, 09:53 AM
my setup is a turbo 2 motor with aftermarket turbo, 1000cc injectors all around, haltech f10, aeromotive fpr, coolingmist methanol kit with controller with no intercooler and thats it for now. bidding on msd boost retard box and also planning on getting two msd boxes.
also wanted to know if i can keep my stock carbureted tank back with a high pressure external pump or do i need to modify a few things for that
if u guys have any input that would be helpful i would appreciate thanks guys.
You will want to run a SE fuel tank, it has the pickup sump along with 1/2 line to your fuel pump. Thats what I am running in my 82. Also I bought a Walbor 255 exteranal inline fuel pump. OH yea switch over to SE fuel lines, they are both 5/16 on the supply and return. That will cover your fuel system, Without the fuel tank sump, you could suck in air when the fuel tank is low on a long curving road. Air = Lean, boom boom. NOt good.
Originally Posted by drewrey2004' post='842820' date='Oct 27 2006, 05:03 PM
ok as far as the ignition is the msd boost retard box ok to use on the distrubutor with the two 6aLs? sorry if it sounds amateur but im not really good with ignition. im fairly new to all this.
I ran two msd 6al with my old 13B street port setup. I ran the leading with two coils as a direct fire set up, and I ran the second through the dizzy but used the leading terminals one less gap for the spark to jump. I don't have any experience with the msd boost retarder, I would make sure you can run it on both boxes to retard equally. That would probably work pretty well as an ignition setup. But it won't be all that cheap. You can gut out the ignitor and make up the connection for the msd leads inside of the ignitor, nice and clean just used dead ignitors or all the first gen guys will cringe.
I've heard of people hooking up their distrbutor vacuum advance to an intake manifold "vacuum" line. When boost comes on, it automatically retards your timing instead of advancing it.... although this may have been A) a quick fix or B) Only on carbed 12AT's.... don't really rememeber....
BAAADDD, just lock it. And set your timming at 10*BTDC no split. Theat's the best place to start tunning from. I currnetly run 10L and 2T only cause that's as close as I can get the split thanks to the idiot that welded my dizzy unequaly...
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