Ok.. Details on the truck are as follows..

..New Universal 18 circuit "Painless wiring" wiring harness..

..Rebuilt T2 engine..

..New Clutch and pressure plate..

..Stock T2 turbo

..Stock intercooler

..12a Carb

..S4 T2 tranny

..Stock repu Rear (for now mwuhahaha)

..No guages in the dash

..S4 oil cooler



Need..

..Weber side draft carb

..Fuel pump

..Fuel Pressure regulator

..Radiator

..Alternator

..fan and shroud

..J 109 coils

..Manifold for t2 to weber carb

..Block off plates for Omp and smog junk

..Boost controller, manual or Home depot style

..Down pipe

..Blow off valve

..Custom driveshaft

..Money



This is the bare bones list of what I need to get it running.. for sevenstock.. Not show worthy, but Driveable.. Maybe a New coat of Primer is needed too...

That's pretty cool. My sevenstock project needs similar amounts of work and time.

So .. Anything missing from my list.. I wanna make sure I get it all..

looks good, you have what? 3 months



mike

yup 3 months to get it running. with my expertise in supervising, it should be no problem

I've always said it will take me 3 months to get my 20B project to where it's drivable. It'll actually never be finished you know. There's always something to do.



Let's get crackin'!

work faster! :whip:



mike

WELL.. I went to the shop today to get a quick look at stuff. I am also considering notching the front cross member to mount the engine as low as possible.. Think thats a good idea?

My REPU has a very heavy exhaust system consisting of six Rotary Engineering glasspacks (two longs, four shorts) and a couple of RX-7 driveshafts as pipes (full length primaries with an H connection about where RB headers would normally Y together). It's grossly overdone and quite heavy. Anyway, all that weight on my old tired motormounts was enough to allow the pan to torque down and hit the crossmember. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.png Or maybe it was simply engine torque?



My advice is to not even bother, since it's already pretty close stock. [hint] I want you to get your truck done quickly! [/hint] I'll be cutting my exhaust in half and leaving only three glasspacks on the truck and using two or three on the GLC. I only really need one if my header collects early, as in my MG. It's only got a single long glasspack with a very short header and a Monza dual tip at the end with little glasspacks in it. It's only a little louder than my REPU, and my REPU is not all that loud.



Both exhausts were done over 10 years ago, when RE was still in business. Man, I wish I could get me some new glasspacks. Somebody out there ought to get the patent and start producing these things again. They're that good. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

The problem with my truck is that the original ngine mount crossmember was cut off by the previous owner... so since I have to make custom mounts.. I was thinking Imight as well Locate the engine in its lowest possible position..

Oh ok. Which oil pan were you going to use? Or a flat sump?

Everything on the engone so far is stock T2... This way there is less stuff to modify.. Since I am gonna use the T2 engine mounts too..

here's a pic of an RE glasspack in my Midget. This is my first pic to post here, so let's see if this works. If so, I'll be able to post pics of my GLC coversion (just have to shoot and scan them).

Cool that worked.



Let me know how your mounts go. I'd like to install a 20B in an REPU some day and need to use side mounts. It's already cut up a little and it's even white, so you know it would be perfect for a 20B.



Do you know if the T2 pan will even fit?

I test fit the engine.. and it actually fit on the mounts that were welded in for the $ banger, but was about 6 incehes to high to mate with the tranny.. so one I cut the off I should be ok.. I don't mind customizing my truck since it has been very tampered with..

Here is a picture of the engine bay.. I highlighted the new engine mounts.. which have to be cut off...

You could use the stock pads that look like they're still below those boinger mounts. I was going to use them in my REPU, but I decided to not put a 20B in it because it's in decent shape bodywise and interior. Only the mechanicals are worn. I couldn't justify cutting it up. However this other REPU has ok mechanicals but worse interior/exterior. It's better at higher speeds than mine. It would be much better for a 20B sleeper in my opinion, plus it's white, which seems to be the color of choice for 20B FC projects for some reason. No one really knows why. It's kinda weird how it works out, even with this REPU.



Check out the pic in all its ugliness: http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/cars.html#rick

I've got a couple pics of an engine R&R I did on this truck a few weeks ago. I just have to scan them.



They really moved the rad forward, didn't they. Were you going to get a custom 4 core rad made for the T2?

To save $$ to get it running I am gonna get a stock T2 or Second gen Radiator.. But eventually get a fluidyne and E-fan.. the white truck looks pretty complete.. What you mentioned about handling is what worries me about the truck.. I doubt it will be able to safely put dowm the power from the T2 engine.. so I just wanna get it running so I can start working on getting it to handle better..





It seems like I will have to 20b my Vert too since it is white as well..

There you go.https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

haha, yes! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Here's a pic that shows where my pan was hitting the crossmember.

Here's a pic of the bay of the white REPU. I've got a few more, but I don't want to clutter up this thread.

Jeff20B: What carb is that you have on there?Is that a 12a I see?

Fell free to start a thread about your project Jeff.. It would be nice to get some more Repu traffic in here.. Plus the first gen guys have much in common with us.... I'd also like to know what kind of Carb that is..

Dellorto, 4 port 13B.

Nice.. are those Dellortos and Weber Carbs easy to tune..?

I couldn't tell you. I've never tried to tune it, but I have played with different fuel pressures. When it was stock ported, it seemed to run best with 4.0 PSI (according to the cheapo regulator, but Racing Beat suggests 4.5 PSI). Now that it's been ported and almost done breaking in, it may run a little different. The first oil change is coming up. I'll check the plugs at that time.



Out of two Dellorto carbs on two different engines, this one has always had a bad idle. It has improved since I rebuilt the engine and now runs like it did on an '86 6 port in my friend's '79 SA. Perhaps the idle circuit is gummed up?

maybe, maybe you need to sync it?



mike

I thought that carb looked familiar. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I don't doubt it. But then again, the idle has a bit of a brap to it. Like SPRT says, it's like brrrp brrrp brrrp brrrp. Then as soon as you get on it, it's smooth. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Even after horribly overheating to 230 degrees F, it still fires up and actually idles better at 3.5PSI. The water seals are shot because the rotor housings got crushed, but at least I can drive it back to my place for quick tear down/rebuild. The guy didn't keep his eye on a leaky radiator. :( or better yet, https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR because now he's got an excuse to get some new rotor housings. Probably GLS-SE style because that's all anyone ever sells anymore.



Hey 75 Repu, how's your truck coming?

It's just there.. I just need the $$ for the carb kit and intake manifold..



I am gonna put back in the Bench seat next week, and if the plasma cutter is back from getting repaired I will finally be able to chop of the old mounts since the sawzall kept bending the blade.. if not I will use the oxy-acetylene torch and do it that way.. The sooner the engine is mounted, the quicker I can piece together the stuff like the exhaust system and Driveshaft..

Cool.What carb are you going to use?

A double barrel weber.. 48 I think.. and an Atkins one piece wrap-around intake manifold.. Heck a dellorto would be just a well right.. Think I could get the sucker turned on with just the carb, without actually hooking up the turbo pipe to the carb(compressor side), just so I can drive it to Sevenstock..

Cool.I love weber carbs

Yeah you probably could. That's what I was going to do before I decided to put my engine in a small car. The idler arm is in the way of the turbo. Since the idler arm is on the outside of the frame rails on REPUs, I'll bet it'll go in easy, and act like a muffler. Just make sure it's got filtered air and plenty of water and/or oil going through it, and it'll be ok.

Cool, It'll probably run real shitty because of the low compression, but as long as I can drive it around, and break in the engine..

If your carb is set up correctly, it'll run great. Remember that REPUs originally had 9.2 compression. If your turbo engine has 9.0 compression (like a S5 or 20B hehe), the difference will be small. If it's an early T2, then it may run kinda bad.

Cool.. My engine is supposed to be S5.. So I guess I can get it running OK.. I wonder if I should just get an N/A exh. Manifold or keep the turbo one on, for meanwhile..

NA exhaust manifold could work. It would be less restrictive than a turbo. But how long were you going to keep it NA? But then again, if it's easy for you to deal with exhaust stuff, then it doesn't really matter.