Vintage Mazda Rotary RX-2, RX-3, RX-4, REPU, etc....

Fuel Pump Woes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-27-2003, 07:58 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

My fuel pump died today. Not sure why.

It worked then it didnt.

I checked the fuse block on the firwall/fender. And the one behind the seat.

So I pre-emptively went ahead and bought a new fuel pump and fuel filter yada yad to swap it out tomorrow.

But is there somewhere else i should check first?

I will hook up a test lamp to the fuel pump anyway.



It only bugs me because I only need the truck to run for two more weeks so i can drive it where i will be disassembling it.



Still after dropping only $65 for the parts it beats the **** out of Fd part prices.
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Old 12-28-2003, 08:57 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

Well It seems that my problem was the hotwire to the fuel pump is no longer hot

I couldnt say why. I f I had a voltage meter the other day I would have known that then.

In anycase, too late I had already bought the new pump and fuel filter. So went ahead and swapped thm out and put in new lines aswell.

I had to rewire the new pump to the battery with a cut off switch.

Truck starts and runs now. Still dosen't idle unitl the engine warms though.



POS 12A is all i can say about that for now.



I cant wait to get all that crap ripped out of there for some updated ****..
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Old 12-28-2003, 11:14 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

I have a weak fuel pump on my red truck. It's going to get replaced with a big Carter. My white truck already has a Carter, so I decided to get one for my red truck.



I have no idea what you should check since I've not done my swap yet. I might hook up a relay because my 'hot' wire is thin. It looks like the PO did it because it's not a stock-looking wire.
Jeff20B is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 01:40 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

So you have an external pump as well?

I am curious, when I asked for the part at PEP boys I toldthem 74>mazda>rotary truck. He brought out a large intank pump.

Then I figured that mine was converted to external when then swapped in the 12a engine into mine.

Obvioulsy then I just told him to bring me an electric pump for a 70's truck.



So which was stock? Internal or external?



In anycase it is a temporary solution for me. I will be using a Walbrow when I get her all set up properly.
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 08:35 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

I've seen several trucks in my day, and they've all had external pumps. As far as I know, internal pumps are GSL-SE and later with FI.
Jeff20B is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 12:38 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Racer X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Default

Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Dec 29 2003, 06:35 PM
I've seen several trucks in my day, and they've all had external pumps. As far as I know, internal pumps are GSL-SE and later with FI.
First gens all have external pumps.The FC's and newer 7's came with in-tank pump setups.
Racer X is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 11:05 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

I wonder what the kid at the parts counter was trying to pass off on me.
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Old 12-31-2003, 03:44 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
j9fd3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Default

you might try adjusting the idle mixture on the motor, if your standing on the drivers side looking at the carb its a phillips screw with a spring on it. if theres 2 screws (79 and older carbs) than i think the big one is the air bleed. turn screw until it idles at the higest rpm. if you have the 2 srewed carb, your not screwed (sorry i'm laughing), turn one screw until you get higest idle speed then turn the other until you get higest idle speed, then repeat. it should idle on its own faster than 20minutes (30seconds in the summer, 2-3 miuntes in the winter)
j9fd3s is offline  
Old 01-01-2004, 01:33 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Default

Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Dec 31 2003, 01:44 PM
you might try adjusting the idle mixture on the motor, if your standing on the drivers side looking at the carb its a phillips screw with a spring on it. if theres 2 screws (79 and older carbs) than i think the big one is the air bleed. turn screw until it idles at the higest rpm. if you have the 2 srewed carb, your not screwed (sorry i'm laughing), turn one screw until you get higest idle speed then turn the other until you get higest idle speed, then repeat. it should idle on its own faster than 20minutes (30seconds in the summer, 2-3 miuntes in the winter)
Thanks for the tip Mike. I will give that a try.
Fd3BOOST is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
drewrey2004
Performance Mods
4
03-12-2007 06:54 PM
ROTARYROCKET7
RX-7 & RX-8 Parts For Sale & Wanted
1
12-13-2006 01:46 PM
dac
2nd Generation Specific
10
03-05-2004 06:24 PM
turborotor
2nd Generation Specific
6
06-19-2003 12:09 AM
87turbollrex
2nd Generation Specific
5
11-14-2002 11:28 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


Quick Reply: Fuel Pump Woes



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:39 PM.