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LOL!!! You should have seen my FD intake tract and where the intake met the engine port. Talk about lousy port matching.
I agree Greg you would think HKS would match a little better. Its amazing what a die grinder and about 45 minutes of your time can accomplish though. Just look at it this way, you have the advantage over many who have simply bolted their HKS manifold on. |
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Feb 1 2005, 05:44 PM
you cant weld cast iron, very few cast irons can be welded using special processes, that grey cast iron definitly cannot be welded
Its never been a problem before. I will just switch my tig over to stick, throw in a Nickle rod, and the rest is pretty simple. Just becuse you dont know what your doing does not mean I dont. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif GregW |
Originally Posted by GMON' date='Feb 2 2005, 11:29 AM
Its never been a problem before. I will just switch my tig over to stick, throw in a Nickle rod, and the rest is pretty simple.
Just becuse you dont know what your doing does not mean I dont. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif GregW PREHEAT, PREHEAT PREHEAT Short weld, peen, short weld, peen, short weld, peen THEN: Into a box of clean DRY sand, cover , and let come to room temp on its own. Your results may vary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png |
Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 2 2005, 09:13 AM
PREHEAT, PREHEAT PREHEAT
Short weld, peen, short weld, peen, short weld, peen THEN: Into a box of clean DRY sand, cover , and let come to room temp on its own. Your results may vary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Good info, thanks for the tip. In the past I used whatever rotary cutting tool was handy to grind the area I was going to weld on the cast. I assume peening would be better becuse it is essentially cold forging the surface. Would like to know your thoghts on that baz? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif GregW |
Per: Jefferson, T. B., "Metals and How to Weld Them, 2 ed." Welding Engineer Publications, Inc., 1990
"Preheating to 500-600F when arc welding and 900-1000F when gas welding, decreases the cooling rate, limits the formation of martensite, and helps eliminate underbead cracking. The entire casting should be preheated, and this heat maintained during welding. Shielded metal-arc welding, using a coated electrode of approximately 60% nickel and 40% iron, is the most saticfactory way to weld nodular iron* When starting to weld ductile iron it is helpful to "butter" the casting surfaces before stating to lay the beads. The welding current should be as low as possible, yet sufficient to product a good bead contour when welding in the flat position. For welding in other positions or when a high preheat is used, the welding current should be reduced. When castings are not preheated, intermittent welding to distrubute the heat is advisable. Peening of the bead while still hot will help to reduce tensile stresses...." * Ductile iron is a subgroup of nodular iron. |
Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 2 2005, 12:13 PM
PREHEAT, PREHEAT PREHEAT
Short weld, peen, short weld, peen, short weld, peen THEN: Into a box of clean DRY sand, cover , and let come to room temp on its own. Your results may vary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png screw the tig machine, get out the old way. Get the oxyacetylene and welding tip and start real welding. |
I know someone who paid $1300 to get a custom stainless steel header made for thier FC
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 2 2005, 11:03 AM
Per: Jefferson, T. B., "Metals and How to Weld Them, 2 ed." Welding Engineer Publications, Inc., 1990
"Preheating to 500-600F when arc welding and 900-1000F when gas welding, decreases the cooling rate, limits the formation of martensite, and helps eliminate underbead cracking. The entire casting should be preheated, and this heat maintained during welding. Shielded metal-arc welding, using a coated electrode of approximately 60% nickel and 40% iron, is the most saticfactory way to weld nodular iron* When starting to weld ductile iron it is helpful to "butter" the casting surfaces before stating to lay the beads. The welding current should be as low as possible, yet sufficient to product a good bead contour when welding in the flat position. For welding in other positions or when a high preheat is used, the welding current should be reduced. When castings are not preheated, intermittent welding to distrubute the heat is advisable. Peening of the bead while still hot will help to reduce tensile stresses...." * Ductile iron is a subgroup of nodular iron. Thats all fine and good bansaiman but unless you know excatly how much YOU are preheating to, ie using a gauge to determine exact temps then you are just running a flame over it for nothing. Right? |
HKS tubular manifold is sweet as ****. The "log" is a hunk of ******* junk IMO.
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A couple of observations on my part.
1. He his starting with a "new" casting, so his probabilty of a succesfull weld build up are better. 2. In a Perfect world, a IR Temp gage would be the ideal solution to monitor temp, In this case since he is arc welding, toss it in the oven on the highest temp and be ready to strike the arc when it comes out. 3. Expectations of quality. This is a can of worms, but here goes: I fstock/as delivered was good enough, we (As modifiers) would all be driving Trabants, Yugos and Pintos!. STOCK IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH for us, thus the quest for more power and higher speeds. With that said. The HKS is Toted as :"The manifold". "The manifold" is delivered and once the fancy wrappings are removed you find an OK product that has obvious design/manufacturing flaws. So know the decision becomes: Do I bolt on this flawed/not optimum piece, or do I make sure its performance is up to the rest of the system its being installed on? Another analogy: You dont install $39.00 tires on a 3K suspension. |
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