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what? atleast it won't crack
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Plan is to tig in the areas that are missing then smooth them out. Also, remove the "extra". Still, what a bunch of crap. There is at least 10-20 hp there.
I knew there was a reason I was getting my own tig. HKS can suck a " " GregW |
Nice crotch shot in the first pic there slugger.
I am trying to understand you're point. Is it the fact that the manifold seems to not match very well with the exhaust ports?? We had the same problem with my HKS setup and JR at Just Racing Fabrications (772-343-0510) cleaned up and matched up the ports. |
Originally Posted by vosko' date='Feb 1 2005, 09:43 AM
huh? Dont you see it. Its going to flow like ass. I didnt spend hours porting my engine to simply move restrictions further down the line. GregW |
Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Feb 1 2005, 09:51 AM
Nice crotch shot in the first pic there slugger.
I am trying to understand you're point. Is it the fact that the manifold seems to not match very well with the exhaust ports?? We had the same problem with my HKS setup and JR at Just Racing Fabrications (772-343-0510) cleaned up and matched up the ports. Yep, its very apparent in person. Pics dont do it justice. Im glad you liked my crotch Jim https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif One would think that since HKS has been making this for at least 10 years that it would fit properly. I knew there was a reason I like custom parts. When someones reputation is built on quality you get a good product. I still need to get a boost controller and WG. I "WAS" thinking about getting HKS for both. Now im a little worried...... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png GregW |
the undivided is designed around the fc and it's not suprising it's restrictive.
the divided fits very nicely and we didn't have to touch the manifold before we put in on. |
And how much did you pay for this thing?
-Ted |
Originally Posted by RETed' date='Feb 1 2005, 11:36 AM
~380 shipped. I could make my own out of SS cheaper once my tig gets here. Its just a backup. But still, the port location on the engines this is "supposed" to fit are all the same so there should be very little variation. My guess it that the flage was thicker and when they milled it flat it got thinner and the port inlets moved. I know lots of 400hp people using this mani. Just wanted to point out to them that for a little effort they could gain some performance. And that HKS does not have a QA department. <shrug> GregW |
Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Feb 1 2005, 10:19 AM
the undivided is designed around the fc and it's not suprising it's restrictive.
the divided fits very nicely and we didn't have to touch the manifold before we put in on. Yes, this one fits nicely as well. Untill you ask the question of how well the ports line up. The restriction I am talking about here is not the mani as a whole but the fact that the ports dont line up. Thats where the restriction is. I used a cutout to check how well it lines up. Would be interesting to see what you find on the divided mani when checking it this way. Somone must have dropped the mold or something. If I get bored I am going to give HKS a call just for giggles GregW |
Just called HKS USA. They really dont care is what I got from them. He asked me if I wanted to warranty it but was like whats the point.
Told him I just figured they would want to know they have a defective product. His response was to tell me I should call the store I purchased it from for any further questions. So there ya have it. Yep, HKS USA rocks! "HKS has matured into a publicly traded company with an international sales and distribution network spanning Asia, Europe, Australia and the Americas to support its rapidly growing and ever-loyal worldwide customer base. The reason is simple: Whether it is engine, suspension, or drive-train systems, there is NO substitute for the performance, quality and reliability of HKS." I worked in a foundry back in the day. Its an easy issue to fix if they cared enough to fix it. Like I said, I knew this was a problem when I bought it. Just wanted to share with others that may be interested in this mani. GregW |
Thats interesting info. I had the divided manifold, seemed to match just fine and was of high quality. I'm not sure why you would want an undivided manifold if you are that concerned with performance?
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i cant really see anything from the pics what exactly is the problem because i have the same manifold and a mig and tig welder available as well. and you said 15-20 hp gain where? porting the manifold?
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your going to tig weld a cast iron manifold?
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isnt that for aluminum?
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you cant weld cast iron, very few cast irons can be welded using special processes, that grey cast iron definitly cannot be welded
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Originally Posted by FD3S DRIFT' date='Feb 1 2005, 05:27 PM
Gas tungsten arc welding, or tungsten inert gas (TIG) is for welding alluminum,stainless steel, mild steel, magnesium,titanium, and deoxidized copper. |
Originally Posted by 94touring' date='Feb 1 2005, 05:32 PM
Thats interesting info. I had the divided manifold, seemed to match just fine and was of high quality. I'm not sure why you would want an undivided manifold if you are that concerned with performance?
ditto |
LOL!!! You should have seen my FD intake tract and where the intake met the engine port. Talk about lousy port matching.
I agree Greg you would think HKS would match a little better. Its amazing what a die grinder and about 45 minutes of your time can accomplish though. Just look at it this way, you have the advantage over many who have simply bolted their HKS manifold on. |
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Feb 1 2005, 05:44 PM
you cant weld cast iron, very few cast irons can be welded using special processes, that grey cast iron definitly cannot be welded
Its never been a problem before. I will just switch my tig over to stick, throw in a Nickle rod, and the rest is pretty simple. Just becuse you dont know what your doing does not mean I dont. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif GregW |
Originally Posted by GMON' date='Feb 2 2005, 11:29 AM
Its never been a problem before. I will just switch my tig over to stick, throw in a Nickle rod, and the rest is pretty simple.
Just becuse you dont know what your doing does not mean I dont. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif GregW PREHEAT, PREHEAT PREHEAT Short weld, peen, short weld, peen, short weld, peen THEN: Into a box of clean DRY sand, cover , and let come to room temp on its own. Your results may vary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png |
Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 2 2005, 09:13 AM
PREHEAT, PREHEAT PREHEAT
Short weld, peen, short weld, peen, short weld, peen THEN: Into a box of clean DRY sand, cover , and let come to room temp on its own. Your results may vary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Good info, thanks for the tip. In the past I used whatever rotary cutting tool was handy to grind the area I was going to weld on the cast. I assume peening would be better becuse it is essentially cold forging the surface. Would like to know your thoghts on that baz? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif GregW |
Per: Jefferson, T. B., "Metals and How to Weld Them, 2 ed." Welding Engineer Publications, Inc., 1990
"Preheating to 500-600F when arc welding and 900-1000F when gas welding, decreases the cooling rate, limits the formation of martensite, and helps eliminate underbead cracking. The entire casting should be preheated, and this heat maintained during welding. Shielded metal-arc welding, using a coated electrode of approximately 60% nickel and 40% iron, is the most saticfactory way to weld nodular iron* When starting to weld ductile iron it is helpful to "butter" the casting surfaces before stating to lay the beads. The welding current should be as low as possible, yet sufficient to product a good bead contour when welding in the flat position. For welding in other positions or when a high preheat is used, the welding current should be reduced. When castings are not preheated, intermittent welding to distrubute the heat is advisable. Peening of the bead while still hot will help to reduce tensile stresses...." * Ductile iron is a subgroup of nodular iron. |
Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 2 2005, 12:13 PM
PREHEAT, PREHEAT PREHEAT
Short weld, peen, short weld, peen, short weld, peen THEN: Into a box of clean DRY sand, cover , and let come to room temp on its own. Your results may vary https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png screw the tig machine, get out the old way. Get the oxyacetylene and welding tip and start real welding. |
I know someone who paid $1300 to get a custom stainless steel header made for thier FC
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 2 2005, 11:03 AM
Per: Jefferson, T. B., "Metals and How to Weld Them, 2 ed." Welding Engineer Publications, Inc., 1990
"Preheating to 500-600F when arc welding and 900-1000F when gas welding, decreases the cooling rate, limits the formation of martensite, and helps eliminate underbead cracking. The entire casting should be preheated, and this heat maintained during welding. Shielded metal-arc welding, using a coated electrode of approximately 60% nickel and 40% iron, is the most saticfactory way to weld nodular iron* When starting to weld ductile iron it is helpful to "butter" the casting surfaces before stating to lay the beads. The welding current should be as low as possible, yet sufficient to product a good bead contour when welding in the flat position. For welding in other positions or when a high preheat is used, the welding current should be reduced. When castings are not preheated, intermittent welding to distrubute the heat is advisable. Peening of the bead while still hot will help to reduce tensile stresses...." * Ductile iron is a subgroup of nodular iron. Thats all fine and good bansaiman but unless you know excatly how much YOU are preheating to, ie using a gauge to determine exact temps then you are just running a flame over it for nothing. Right? |
HKS tubular manifold is sweet as ****. The "log" is a hunk of ******* junk IMO.
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A couple of observations on my part.
1. He his starting with a "new" casting, so his probabilty of a succesfull weld build up are better. 2. In a Perfect world, a IR Temp gage would be the ideal solution to monitor temp, In this case since he is arc welding, toss it in the oven on the highest temp and be ready to strike the arc when it comes out. 3. Expectations of quality. This is a can of worms, but here goes: I fstock/as delivered was good enough, we (As modifiers) would all be driving Trabants, Yugos and Pintos!. STOCK IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH for us, thus the quest for more power and higher speeds. With that said. The HKS is Toted as :"The manifold". "The manifold" is delivered and once the fancy wrappings are removed you find an OK product that has obvious design/manufacturing flaws. So know the decision becomes: Do I bolt on this flawed/not optimum piece, or do I make sure its performance is up to the rest of the system its being installed on? Another analogy: You dont install $39.00 tires on a 3K suspension. |
Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Feb 3 2005, 05:56 AM
A couple of observations on my part.
1. He his starting with a "new" casting, so his probabilty of a succesfull weld build up are better. 2. In a Perfect world, a IR Temp gage would be the ideal solution to monitor temp, In this case since he is arc welding, toss it in the oven on the highest temp and be ready to strike the arc when it comes out. Are you a certified welder? This sounds like shade tree welding practices. Which is fine so long as we all know that is where you are coming from. |
I was a certified weld inspector/Qa Inpector
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Before anyone posts anything else to this please note that the only reason I took the time to post pics was to share with the community.
Time and time again I hear "This Sux" or "That Sux" with no evidence as to why. Well now there are pics of the problems with the HKS manifold on Nopistions.com. Since I am a QA person and have experience working in a foundry I know that this would be a very easy issue for HKS to fix. However, since most people seem to think this is acceptable and dont let HKS know about it they will most likely continue as is. Peoples reaction to this post have been entertaining to say the least. If someone thinking about getting this manifold does a search on nopistions I hope they find this thread and find the information useful. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif GregW |
Originally Posted by GMON' date='Feb 3 2005, 10:28 AM
Before anyone posts anything else to this please note that the only reason I took the time to post pics was to share with the community.
Time and time again I hear "This Sux" or "That Sux" with no evidence as to why. Well now there are pics of the problems with the HKS manifold on Nopistions.com. Since I am a QA person and have experience working in a foundry I know that this would be a very easy issue for HKS to fix. However, since most people seem to think this is acceptable and dont let HKS know about it they will most likely continue as is. Peoples reaction to this post have been entertaining to say the least. If someone thinking about getting this manifold does a search on nopistions I hope they find this thread and find the information useful. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif GregW I personally would not buy a cast manifold. |
I have one of these manifolds for my car, guess Ill have to inspect it before installation
the price was right |
Originally Posted by GMON' date='Feb 3 2005, 10:28 AM
Since I am a QA person and have experience working in a foundry I know that this would be a very easy issue for HKS to fix. However, since most people seem to think this is acceptable and dont let HKS know about it they will most likely continue as is.
Peoples reaction to this post have been entertaining to say the least. If someone thinking about getting this manifold does a search on nopistions I hope they find this thread and find the information useful. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif GregW well the problem is they have made this manifold for almost 20years, why would they change it for a dead car? the info you're showing is IS useful though. |
i'd take cast over a SS manifold anyday. i had TWO and both broke!!!! down with SS manifolds !!!! cast all the way
i agree the hks manifold could be better but so could anything! i'm pretty sure HKS has been making those manifolds for like 10 years now.... |
yea i definitely prefer a cast manifold especially when it comes to a big/heavy turbo. I know vosko had problems with his T78 breaking SS manis, and by holding mine i can definitely see why. the fucker is heavy, so unless you brace it up or put braces all over the SS manifold (defeating the whole "SS is pretty" thing) then cast is a lot better.
plus when adding things as important as a manifold who chooses something cause its "prettier"? I'm going to run that HKS "log" manifold as well, but im going to try to use the RB flange to try an idea i have in my head to make the port line up better. kevin. |
instead of using the RB flange could you use the gasket as a template?
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Originally Posted by vosko' date='Feb 3 2005, 09:46 PM
i'd take cast over a SS manifold anyday. i had TWO and both broke!!!! down with SS manifolds !!!! cast all the way
i agree the hks manifold could be better but so could anything! i'm pretty sure HKS has been making those manifolds for like 10 years now.... I'll change my tune if mine cracks. As of yet it has not. |
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