Old Splatterhand

thanks for the kind replies, guys.

i also thought about the backpressure. i think the injection of the water must be timed like fuel injection, maybe somewhere at Bottom-TDC after the combustion, where the exhaust port is fully open, but not the intake...i dont know, just thinking loudly. these questions can only be answered with testing i guess.

the problem with nitrous injection into the exhaust manifold is that you can't just fill up nitrous anywhere (but you can buy a bottle of water everywhere) and you would increase turbo inlet temperature where water drops it actually.



FikseRxSeven:

" think the sudden drop of temperature will greatly slow down the exhaust air because warm air moves faster , and also, it will make the exhaust gas more dense, so whatever expansion the water will make will make the exhaust more dense.... i could be wrong though"





that's right, but it's always a trade off. the question is: would the pros outwheigh the cons?

i'd try it in a heartbeat, but no money or time at the moment.

FikseRxSeven

oh yeah.. i think this will make a care almost impossible to tune, spraying water or nitrous oxide after combustion will make inaccurate EGT and AFR readings.

RE-Renegade

how about electrical per-spool, using magnets, negative with negative creating that pushing force. hahah i might be flamed i should stop posting lol

FikseRxSeven

lag is overrated... i used to think it would be the worst thing in the world... now that i have a TO4R, it aint all that bad, hell you dont even notice it... even with a TO4R

rfreeman27

wise words

Fd3BOOST

Sorry to get but does this mean your car is tuned and driving now?

FikseRxSeven

its been tuned... dragon tuned the car(a little extra rich of course) for me to get my breakin goin. the car is pretty much tuned for 15lbs up to 6000rpm. so i havent really stepped on it.. but i can feel how boost lag is overrated



thanks for asking dave

chase78

It sounds like that people with sinlge turbo "MISS" having thier twin turbo setup.



I've seen people in other cars with this problem use a dry nitrous system to get to the rpms where boost is beginning with with a spring load switch on the shifter or a boost pressure sensor what will but off the nitrous. the hard part from what i understand is try to work out a sweet spoot with this transition between nitrous and turbo boost so that you dont get bogged down or have to much of a HP spike at a mid range rpm.





WOT start in 1st gear with nitrous. Use it until where your turbo comes on strong.



kill you NO2 by releasing your spring loaded switch or it being cut off with pressure sensor.





SAFETY

you can have fail safes or "GO" triggers



1. connected to the gas pedal pressure sensor when you put it down all the way



2. a switch to engage your nitorus.



3. neutral switch (when you shift)



4. pressure swith turns on when you reach a psi that you set it at



so that set up would be turn on your bottle (trigger#2) - launch at WOT (trigger #1)

just put the trigger in series.



and let the presure sensor or neutal swich kill NO2 .







I've seen both types of set ups the (manual) spring loaded trigger and the (automatic) multiple "GO" triggers.



the best part you use less nitrous then normal WOT applications. you will just use the nitorus for maybe 3 seconds at the most. Nitrous at the low rpms hits like a hammer.

rfreeman27

I am most likley going to run a wet 50 shot in my car. I doubt it will need it, but if i do



<- my TT setup

GreyGT-C

i discovered a kooky lil way to prevent lag before hitting my "sweet spot" on the RPMs....... i take that funny looking thing sticking out of the top of the transmission and downshift if my RPMs are too low to effectively make boost.