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Pics Of My Damaged Turbo

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Old 01-13-2003, 07:17 PM
  #51  
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well, lets just say that you would want to run out a tank before it sits for a few weeks. the longer the exposure to the air or SOME air, the more likely it is to be denatured. it is like a coke can in the sun, you know, you see it in the bushes and it has lost all of its color. think of that like the octane in gas, and the sun is the oxygen. the longer the exposure, the less likely the gas is going to retain its octane rating.....





i personall do not know how long it would take to denature some gas, but it certainly can not happen to quickly. BUT let's not forget how many times gas is transferred before it gets to us.....iran,iraq,somefukkinwhere, to a truck, to a boat, to another truck, to a holding tank, to a distribution truck to a holding tank, and then to your can, car, or whatever......so, it can not happen too quickly, but do we know how old the gas is or WHEN the octane was tested?????



dumdumdum??????
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Old 01-13-2003, 08:56 PM
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goodpoint. hmmmm what about using gas stabilizer would that prevent the effects of the oxygen 'denaturing" the gas?
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Old 01-14-2003, 10:39 AM
  #53  
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I always had a filter on the turbo. Check out my post in the third gen section for more updates.
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Old 01-14-2003, 01:18 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Silver Ninety Three' date='Jan 14 2003, 08:39 AM
I always had a filter on the turbo. Check out my post in the third gen section for more updates.
Yeah, I saw the post...just like what my friend did, but his was a tired old motor that he was trying to blow. I guess it could have been a freak thing.
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Old 01-15-2003, 12:27 PM
  #55  
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Yep your fucked your pictures look all to familiar to me. The same thing happened to me in August, and i still havent put my car back together.
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Old 01-15-2003, 02:07 PM
  #56  
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ouch
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Old 01-27-2003, 12:22 PM
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Heat had nothing to do with that.



That is what happens when pieces of apex seals go threw the exaust wheel while it's spinning at 10,000-100,000 rpm. As was mentioned earlier egt sensor probes will do the same type of damage when they break off.. Any time you blow an engine it is a good idea to pull the ex housing off your turbo and take a look as it is very common to take out the ex wheel when they blow... This is anouther reason why I refuse to run a ball bearing turbo on a rotary engine. standard shaft garret parts are cheap and that shaft would run you around $120-180 + $60-80 for a complete overhaul kit and you could have it with in a week. Rotary engines have plenty of exaust pressure to spool a standard bearing type turbo...
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Old 01-27-2003, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jan 12 2003, 03:58 PM
Exactly. How does that make sense though? Doesn't raising EGTs, mean your running lean? How would running leaded gas do that?
lol.. I didn't notice this topic was 3 pages long when I made my last post :redface: , but after reading threw it all here is what I think happened..



Actually running ritch will also make high ex temps as the unburnt fuel from the combustion cycle burns in the manifold.. When I used to tune with out a A/F wide band (God they are great) I would tune my car rich and then take out fuel a little bit at a time and watch the egt drop until it settled. When the egt starts to rise again you know your starting to run lean.



From the way it sounds his engine went under load at a high tork area of the map at that boost level probably during or near the injector change transition. This can cause a slight lean condition for a split second and blow an engine.. With the datalogit and power accel software you can make this change over occure over more time etc and cure this problem. In my experiance this is one of the hardest parts of the map / settings to adjust and get right.
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Old 01-27-2003, 01:21 PM
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Another thing to keep in mind. Man this **** is complicated.
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Old 01-28-2003, 12:45 AM
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Sorry to hear that man..
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