FS: NY: 1989 RX-7 GTUs
02-28-2008, 03:50 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 18
Well, where to start.....I'm going to make every effort to describe this car as honestly as I can.
This is my 1989 Mazda RX-7 GTUs that I have a love/annoy relationship with (in a good way, it's slightly annoying to have as a Daily Driver, but great to have as a weekender.) I used it as a Daily Driver for 1 year then switched it to a Weekender when I got my other daily driver. Since then, it's seen Autocross and HPDE duty. With good tires, this car can break into the 14s on stock engine. This car would make for a great STS2 SCCA autocross car.
It's a GTUs, so it already comes with compromises in luxury for performance, as it is Mazda's Factory Competition FC. Less than 1500 of these rare beauties were made.
It's slightly modded, with the focus on reliability first, then power.
The car is located in New York City.
It has around 142xxx on the body, previous owner told me that the engine was swapped for a standard Mazda remanufactured engine at 99xxx, but I didn't keep the receipts with me. The engine is very healthy, as can be verified by the shop I take it to for work, KDR Performance in New Tripoli, PA.
GOOD STUFF
Car was tuned up about 10k miles ago, Oil changes done religiously in 2500 and 3000 mile intervals. All leaks discovered and fixed. Belts have all been replaced
New OEM Water Pump
New OEM Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Cylinders
Redline MT-90 Synthetic Transmission fluid in the Transmission 10k miles ago
Redline 75w90NS Synthetic Gear Oil in the Differential 10k miles ago
Coolant system flushed yearly
Rebuilt OEM Rear Calipers replaced last winter
Rebuilt Wiper Switch
Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid frequently flushed and bled
STANDARD GTUs Goodies
4.3 Ring & Pinion Gear Differential with Viscous LSD
.752 5th Gear for more pulling power in 5th Gear (To check, you can verify that the car does 80 mph @ 3500 rpm in 5th Gear. In other NA's, the car will do 3000 rpm.)
16x7 inch Wheels (You can verify it's a GTUs by looking at the door jamb sticker and seeing 205/55/16 as the standard tire size)
MODS:
All Suspension Bushings replaced with Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
Mazdatrix DTSS Eliminators
Mazda Competition Engine Mounts
Mazda Competition Transmission Mounts
Mazda Competition Front Differential Mount
Mazda Competition Rear Differential Mounts
Power Slot Cryo Rotors
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
Mazdatrix DOT-legal Brake Lines
RB Torque Brace
Aftermarket Strut Tower Brace Bar
RB Oil Baffle Plate
Mazdatrix Spark Plug Wires
AM/FM Cassette Deck
RB Header
RB Pre-silencer
RB Cat-back
K&N Drop-In Filter
Aftermarket Glass Sunroof
BAD STUFF
Car vibrates slightly more than stock due to the stiffer mounts and the stiffer bushings.
Dash is cracked in one place, right above the instrument cluster
Dash vents have been removed
AC Compressor has a leak in it, a full charge will escape in just under a month. Other than that, everything else in the system holds pressure.
Rear Antenna doesn't rise up, I've wired the radio to use the Front Winshield Antenna instead. Haven't really noticed a difference in reception, but I live in New York City, so it's kinda hard not to receive radio reception.
Underbody is slightly rusted since the Previous Owner stored the car on a Grassy Field over a winter. To resolve that problem, I've driven the car to Canada to have it professionally undercoated with rust inhibitor. Most of the underbody rust has gone, and the car is protected for at least another year. (The rust protection service should be done yearly)
The aftermarket sunroof has lost some of its sealing ability, so as a result, after particularly heavy rainstorms, the sunroof will leak a small amount of water into the cabin. To resolve this, I've just kept the car under a waterproof car cover.
Front Driver Side Brake Rotor has a dent in it from a jack accident, thankfully, it's on the unused portion of the rotor, where the pad makes no contact with it.
In fact, I had enough confidence in the rotor that I took the car to Lime Rock Park after the accident with the brake rotor, and it did fine repeatedly hard braking from 110 mph to 60 mph with no visibile ill-effects.
Front Driver Side Fender is slightly damaged as well in the same incident.
Pictures:
Impressions:
SUSPENSION
After the suspension refresh, the car feels as agile as ever. This car has a tremendous amount of grip with the right tires and suspension. On stock suspension, as you get closer to the grip limit, the car will start to understeer, but that can be fixed with good aftermarket strusts (Koni, Bilstein, KYB) or coilovers. I've found that, if you decide to go with lowering springs, you will get much more body roll than stock, which is a function of these cars' McPherson Strut geometry. Therefore, I recommend you keep the stock springs when using an aftermarket shock or just buy a coilover, as those springs are stiff enough to counteract the increased roll. Beware though, coilovers will make your *** hurt since they are stiffer.
ENGINE
The car revs nice and smooth in all gears and rpms. With the right ECU tune, the car really picks up. I've been said to have the fastest stock engine street RX-7 in the area, which is a testament to the way it runs.
Top speed is in excess of 142 mph.
BRAKES
Repeated hard stops give no sense of brake fade, these things will stop you on a dime. Make sure not to get too overaggressive as these cars don't come with ABS and you will lock your brakes.
PRICE
I'm asking $5000 OBO
This car puts out 170 whp, with the Rtek7 ECU.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
This is my 1989 Mazda RX-7 GTUs that I have a love/annoy relationship with (in a good way, it's slightly annoying to have as a Daily Driver, but great to have as a weekender.) I used it as a Daily Driver for 1 year then switched it to a Weekender when I got my other daily driver. Since then, it's seen Autocross and HPDE duty. With good tires, this car can break into the 14s on stock engine. This car would make for a great STS2 SCCA autocross car.
It's a GTUs, so it already comes with compromises in luxury for performance, as it is Mazda's Factory Competition FC. Less than 1500 of these rare beauties were made.
It's slightly modded, with the focus on reliability first, then power.
The car is located in New York City.
It has around 142xxx on the body, previous owner told me that the engine was swapped for a standard Mazda remanufactured engine at 99xxx, but I didn't keep the receipts with me. The engine is very healthy, as can be verified by the shop I take it to for work, KDR Performance in New Tripoli, PA.
GOOD STUFF
Car was tuned up about 10k miles ago, Oil changes done religiously in 2500 and 3000 mile intervals. All leaks discovered and fixed. Belts have all been replaced
New OEM Water Pump
New OEM Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Cylinders
Redline MT-90 Synthetic Transmission fluid in the Transmission 10k miles ago
Redline 75w90NS Synthetic Gear Oil in the Differential 10k miles ago
Coolant system flushed yearly
Rebuilt OEM Rear Calipers replaced last winter
Rebuilt Wiper Switch
Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid frequently flushed and bled
STANDARD GTUs Goodies
4.3 Ring & Pinion Gear Differential with Viscous LSD
.752 5th Gear for more pulling power in 5th Gear (To check, you can verify that the car does 80 mph @ 3500 rpm in 5th Gear. In other NA's, the car will do 3000 rpm.)
16x7 inch Wheels (You can verify it's a GTUs by looking at the door jamb sticker and seeing 205/55/16 as the standard tire size)
MODS:
All Suspension Bushings replaced with Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
Mazdatrix DTSS Eliminators
Mazda Competition Engine Mounts
Mazda Competition Transmission Mounts
Mazda Competition Front Differential Mount
Mazda Competition Rear Differential Mounts
Power Slot Cryo Rotors
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
Mazdatrix DOT-legal Brake Lines
RB Torque Brace
Aftermarket Strut Tower Brace Bar
RB Oil Baffle Plate
Mazdatrix Spark Plug Wires
AM/FM Cassette Deck
RB Header
RB Pre-silencer
RB Cat-back
K&N Drop-In Filter
Aftermarket Glass Sunroof
BAD STUFF
Car vibrates slightly more than stock due to the stiffer mounts and the stiffer bushings.
Dash is cracked in one place, right above the instrument cluster
Dash vents have been removed
AC Compressor has a leak in it, a full charge will escape in just under a month. Other than that, everything else in the system holds pressure.
Rear Antenna doesn't rise up, I've wired the radio to use the Front Winshield Antenna instead. Haven't really noticed a difference in reception, but I live in New York City, so it's kinda hard not to receive radio reception.
Underbody is slightly rusted since the Previous Owner stored the car on a Grassy Field over a winter. To resolve that problem, I've driven the car to Canada to have it professionally undercoated with rust inhibitor. Most of the underbody rust has gone, and the car is protected for at least another year. (The rust protection service should be done yearly)
The aftermarket sunroof has lost some of its sealing ability, so as a result, after particularly heavy rainstorms, the sunroof will leak a small amount of water into the cabin. To resolve this, I've just kept the car under a waterproof car cover.
Front Driver Side Brake Rotor has a dent in it from a jack accident, thankfully, it's on the unused portion of the rotor, where the pad makes no contact with it.
In fact, I had enough confidence in the rotor that I took the car to Lime Rock Park after the accident with the brake rotor, and it did fine repeatedly hard braking from 110 mph to 60 mph with no visibile ill-effects.
Front Driver Side Fender is slightly damaged as well in the same incident.
Pictures:
Impressions:
SUSPENSION
After the suspension refresh, the car feels as agile as ever. This car has a tremendous amount of grip with the right tires and suspension. On stock suspension, as you get closer to the grip limit, the car will start to understeer, but that can be fixed with good aftermarket strusts (Koni, Bilstein, KYB) or coilovers. I've found that, if you decide to go with lowering springs, you will get much more body roll than stock, which is a function of these cars' McPherson Strut geometry. Therefore, I recommend you keep the stock springs when using an aftermarket shock or just buy a coilover, as those springs are stiff enough to counteract the increased roll. Beware though, coilovers will make your *** hurt since they are stiffer.
ENGINE
The car revs nice and smooth in all gears and rpms. With the right ECU tune, the car really picks up. I've been said to have the fastest stock engine street RX-7 in the area, which is a testament to the way it runs.
Top speed is in excess of 142 mph.
BRAKES
Repeated hard stops give no sense of brake fade, these things will stop you on a dime. Make sure not to get too overaggressive as these cars don't come with ABS and you will lock your brakes.
PRICE
I'm asking $5000 OBO
This car puts out 170 whp, with the Rtek7 ECU.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
03-18-2008, 11:21 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 18
Originally Posted by 1revin712488' post='896746' date='Mar 18 2008, 02:07 PM
Where are you in new york? looks like you know a few people with rx7's
I live in queens, a bunch of my boys live in queens and brooklyn.
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