Stang94GT

1993 VR Touring

164xxxk miles on body, engine replaced @ ~150k

Manual

Clean title, reliability mods, drives straight

Former CA car, with original VECI (emissions) sticker still on hood

~25mpg on highway, city sucks (what do you expect?)

Solid idle @ 900rpm, 14 in-Hg vacuum

Interior is 7/10, exterior is 8/10

Engine rebuilt by Rotary Performance, tuned by Rx7.com in Texas.

VIN: JM1FD3310P0203923



Engine Mods:

All recalls performed

AST removed

Koyo radiator

full exhaust w/cat downpipe, RB dual tip, bonez cat downpipe 3"

non-sequential turbo conversion

street ported engine, replaced @ ~150k, new housings

upgraded secondary injectors

Apexi intake (filters are a little smooshed)

Silicon hoses



Suspension:

Eibach springs (recent)

Tokico Illumina shocks (recent)

New spring seats (upper/lower), all 4 corners (recent)

Konig Blatant wheels, 17"

Cross-drilled/slotted rotors



Misc:

Apexi PFC ECU

Defi gauges (boost/water temp), a-pillar mounted

C's shifter, Momo shift ****, Momo shift boot

Aluminum scuff plates with gold RX7 embossing

Osram bulbs (Euro Silverstars, brighter)

Interior plastics painted red

Front Efini badge, rear has no badging & trunk lock removed/painted flush

Roof/mirrors recently repainted

Rear tail lights done to look like 99 (DIY)

99-spec front lip, but front portion is a little ground

painted mud guards

Greddy Turbo Timer

Alpine deck

Workshop Manual/various literature

sub if new owner wants

Stock shifter & second Momo ****



Flaws:

drivers seat torn/worn

tach jumpy sometimes (DIY fix avail)

turbo drain leaks oil when you get on it hard

Tires should be replaced

Bushings make noise (diff bushings & front)

Various dings, driver side door was keyed but did not go through clear coat

A/C not working, needs new compressor

Glove box has 1 broken hinge

Cracks at various locations of interior trim pieces (defrost vents, see pics)

One of the tabs for the steering column cover broke, fixed with tape (see pic)

5th gear grinds

Hood jumps a little while driving (electrical tape fix in effect!)

Rock chips in windshield, see pics

hatch rattles, using some rubber to keep it from rattling, see pics

Original Bose sub removed, holes remain in the rear shelf

Some cracking of rear hatch plastics

Fog lights present/work but not wired

Compartment below stereo is loose, should be replaced

Oil pressure gage reads 0 @ idle but it's not really 0, bad contact(?)

Clutch switch is twitchy sometimes - I have to let off the clutch and push back down to start the car sometimes, never failed to start.

Drivers door glove box cracked

Parking brake light stays on during some hard accels (inet fix floating around somewhere)

Car has been repainted, it's not a perfect match

Aftermarket alarm needs to be disarmed with key first before disarming via remote

Stock interior sucks and could use a serious detail



Extras not installed:

fuel filter

spark plugs

spark plug wires

Hawk HPS brake pads

front strut bar

RE flush mount HID lights w/genuine RE Amemiya smoked covers (+$1k or $700 for halogen)

SS brake lines

low mileage toe & trailing links

better condition leather seat skins (my original goal was to replace the seats with cloth since I hate leather)



I had big plans for the car, but after completing my Mustang project I've decided to get out of playing with cars for now. It's got a lot of the "common" FD issues and I'm too tired to start on this car. The FD just sits there collecting dust, so it's gotta go. Car is plated & reg'd in Michigan, however the car is currently in Torrance, California (90505). If you're buying the car and taking it to an emissions state, it's YOUR resonsibility to make the car compliant/get the car to pass yourself. The car is tuned rich for safety. The car was originally sold in CA, then moved to Texas. I purchased it from Texas and took it to MI. Now that I'm in CA, I don't want to deal with the smog hassle.



I also have a 90% complete RE style flush mount headlight system that I'll include with the car, mentioned above. I have everything other than the actual brackets to mount the lights, they're easy to make yourself and I've seen others on this site who've done it. It will involve some cutting of the car and I didn't want to do this knowing that I'd sell the car. See pics for differences between the H9 (halogen, higher output than stock lights) and the HID! The buckets are painted VR and the covers are genuine RE Amemiya, they're curved to fit the shape of the car. I'll include the HID setup for an extra $1k. If buyer prefers, I can include the halogen version instead for an additional $700. Included are the buckets & brackets, covers, high beams, low beams, harnesses for the new lights, and harnesses for the old lights so you don't have to cut your stock wiring up.



Current problems that need to be fixed - driver side headlight motor is out and the stock wastegate pill was burned up, so it only makes 7psi boost right now. I'm trying to fix these items before I sell the car but if not it's only ~$50 in parts to fix it, not a big deal especially if you want the flush headlight kit.



I _might_ be able to get you a deal on a Garrett turbo if you decide later you want to replace the stock turbos with a single turbo, but no guarantees.



Asking 11k OBO. cam_t_thaiATyahoo.com or 310-748-0514 for questions.



Pics available at;

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cam_t_thai/my_photos

Warning, there are a LOT of pictures!

Stang94GT

SOLD!