FS: 1984 Mazda RX7 GSL in Tampa Florida
09-26-2007, 06:58 PM
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The will be on EBAY tonight (sept 26) at 9 Eastern and will end 7 days later. The opening bid is set for $9.99, it has a Buy it NOW for $3500, and a reserve price that is MUCH lower than that. Below is the story of the car and the description that will be on EBAY.
Up for sale is my 1984 Mazda RX7 GSL with 154xxx 'gentle' miles. Everyone says gentle miles, but I know it for a fact with this car. My neighbor bought this car on her 18th birthday in 1986 from the original owner. It was her daily driver until some time around 2000 when it was parked in her parent’s carport. About a year ago, she finally decided to let it go, and I snatched it up. This is the GSL model which came with the Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and 4 wheel disc brakes. The LSD is still in working condition (they wear out when abused) and is an essential piece for any type of racing or DRIFTING.
The first thing I did when I purchased the car was to give it a basic tune up and get it running right:
New Battery, Plugs, Wires, Coolant Hoses, Belts, Coolant Flush, Oil Change, Fuel Filter, A/C Recharged and working very well.
At this point, it was running good enough to drive around, so of course I put it on Jackstands, and began my 'project'. The car now has the following installed and completely tested and sorted out. The wheels on the car are American Racing 13x6 with both 4x110 and 4x100 bolt patterns. They are in pretty nice shape with minimal curb rash. I also have the center caps, just not on the car.
New Tires: Toyo Proxes Ra-1. 205 / 60-13. If you don't know already, these are pretty much the best (stickiest) street legal tires you can buy. These tires are basically new and have never been heat cycled!
Suspension: Tokico ‘Blues’, Racing Beat Lowering Springs, Complete Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing Kit. (everywhere but upper control arms). Stock Swaybars with new endlinks and bushings.
Brakes: New Front Calipers (remanufactured), Hawk HP Pads, Steel Braided Lines and Valvoleen DOT 4 high boil fluid.
Steering: New Inner and Outer Tie Rods, New Ball Joints, New Idler Arm Bushings, and a Autocross alignment.
Engine and drivetrain: Completely Stock. I purchased this car with the intention of going to ‘track days’ and aucrossing, but never quite made it that far. The rest of the car is built for lots of horsepower, so the car would be a prime candidate for a Turbo II or V8 swap of some sort. Of course that was my intention…but you know how that goes. As it is, it runs very strong for a 12A and is quite entertaining on a country road.
The car Starts and Drives extremely well for its age and only smokes if not started for weeks. As I keep driving the car, it keeps getting better and better as should be expected from a car not regularly driven in aprox 5 years. Pop up headlight motors both work, and the lights themselves work also. Power windows work, but will slide off the track if rolled down completely. The sunroof works, and does not leak. As you can see from the work I've done on the car, the hard and boring stuff has already been taken car of! It really sucks to spend your time and money on stuff like ball joints and wheel bearings instead of the fun stuff like headers, turbos, or engine swaps! Buy this car, and you won't have to...
I have done my best to take pictures that accurately depict this car. The rust spot in the rear hatch area is by far the worst spot on the car. This car was re-painted at some point in the 90’s and has a couple of slight ‘matching’ issues. It looks very nice from 10 feet, but a close inspection will reveal its imperfections. Even with its flaws, it makes a nice appearance for a daily driver, and would make an excellent basis for show quality restoration. I honestly think the interior looks better in person than in the pictures. For some reason, the pictures make the seats look like they are very different colors, which does not show up in person.
As many of you will already know, most of these cars are rust buckets by this age. This car is definitely not a rust bucket. I have seen every part of the underside of this car, and there is nothing but light surface rust anywhere to be found. I have been driving the car around quite a bit lately and would feel quite comfortable driving it a great distance. The Oil pressure is around 65 lbs/in at 3000rpm, and the car has never gotten near ‘overheating’
If you would like to see specific pictures, let me know and I’ll be glad to take them for you. If you would like to see it in person please message me and we’ll set up a time to meet.
. If you wish to have the car shipped, I would be willing to drop the car off at a shipper in the Tampa Bay area.
.
Up for sale is my 1984 Mazda RX7 GSL with 154xxx 'gentle' miles. Everyone says gentle miles, but I know it for a fact with this car. My neighbor bought this car on her 18th birthday in 1986 from the original owner. It was her daily driver until some time around 2000 when it was parked in her parent’s carport. About a year ago, she finally decided to let it go, and I snatched it up. This is the GSL model which came with the Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and 4 wheel disc brakes. The LSD is still in working condition (they wear out when abused) and is an essential piece for any type of racing or DRIFTING.
The first thing I did when I purchased the car was to give it a basic tune up and get it running right:
New Battery, Plugs, Wires, Coolant Hoses, Belts, Coolant Flush, Oil Change, Fuel Filter, A/C Recharged and working very well.
At this point, it was running good enough to drive around, so of course I put it on Jackstands, and began my 'project'. The car now has the following installed and completely tested and sorted out. The wheels on the car are American Racing 13x6 with both 4x110 and 4x100 bolt patterns. They are in pretty nice shape with minimal curb rash. I also have the center caps, just not on the car.
New Tires: Toyo Proxes Ra-1. 205 / 60-13. If you don't know already, these are pretty much the best (stickiest) street legal tires you can buy. These tires are basically new and have never been heat cycled!
Suspension: Tokico ‘Blues’, Racing Beat Lowering Springs, Complete Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing Kit. (everywhere but upper control arms). Stock Swaybars with new endlinks and bushings.
Brakes: New Front Calipers (remanufactured), Hawk HP Pads, Steel Braided Lines and Valvoleen DOT 4 high boil fluid.
Steering: New Inner and Outer Tie Rods, New Ball Joints, New Idler Arm Bushings, and a Autocross alignment.
Engine and drivetrain: Completely Stock. I purchased this car with the intention of going to ‘track days’ and aucrossing, but never quite made it that far. The rest of the car is built for lots of horsepower, so the car would be a prime candidate for a Turbo II or V8 swap of some sort. Of course that was my intention…but you know how that goes. As it is, it runs very strong for a 12A and is quite entertaining on a country road.
The car Starts and Drives extremely well for its age and only smokes if not started for weeks. As I keep driving the car, it keeps getting better and better as should be expected from a car not regularly driven in aprox 5 years. Pop up headlight motors both work, and the lights themselves work also. Power windows work, but will slide off the track if rolled down completely. The sunroof works, and does not leak. As you can see from the work I've done on the car, the hard and boring stuff has already been taken car of! It really sucks to spend your time and money on stuff like ball joints and wheel bearings instead of the fun stuff like headers, turbos, or engine swaps! Buy this car, and you won't have to...
I have done my best to take pictures that accurately depict this car. The rust spot in the rear hatch area is by far the worst spot on the car. This car was re-painted at some point in the 90’s and has a couple of slight ‘matching’ issues. It looks very nice from 10 feet, but a close inspection will reveal its imperfections. Even with its flaws, it makes a nice appearance for a daily driver, and would make an excellent basis for show quality restoration. I honestly think the interior looks better in person than in the pictures. For some reason, the pictures make the seats look like they are very different colors, which does not show up in person.
As many of you will already know, most of these cars are rust buckets by this age. This car is definitely not a rust bucket. I have seen every part of the underside of this car, and there is nothing but light surface rust anywhere to be found. I have been driving the car around quite a bit lately and would feel quite comfortable driving it a great distance. The Oil pressure is around 65 lbs/in at 3000rpm, and the car has never gotten near ‘overheating’
If you would like to see specific pictures, let me know and I’ll be glad to take them for you. If you would like to see it in person please message me and we’ll set up a time to meet.
. If you wish to have the car shipped, I would be willing to drop the car off at a shipper in the Tampa Bay area.
.
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