Wuz up Fellas ! I'm new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself and my old school ride. I have only one pic up loaded at this time but i'm going to put a couple more when i get a chance. I'm station in Virginia and always trying to meet more rotorheaqds like myself. Well, i look forward to talking and discussing topic's with you guys. Laterz !

aaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnndddddd welcome

[quote name='GLC13B' date='Apr 30 2005, 07:54 PM']Wuz up Fellas ! I'm new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself and my old school ride. I have only one pic up loaded at this time but i'm going to put a couple more when i get a chance. I'm station in Virginia and always trying to meet more rotorheaqds like myself. Well, i look forward to talking and discussing topic's with you guys. Laterz !


[/quote]



We don't take kindly to misspellings around here. Now get along and post the pics.

Pics, man! Pics!

Welcome. We would like pictures very much!

Hi there.

Ok, I'll work on getting some picture's this week !

Jeff20B, thanks for all the advice with the (Direct fire) ! I can't believe that i was missing out on so much more power in the upper rpm's. It's like driving a whole different car !

It's like Choco-Bliss!

Ok, it's time to have a engine built for my GLC and i'm a little undecided between a "90" 13B Perpherial Port or taking that same engine and changing the plate's to T2 plate's and have a BP done on that. I saw my first PP this weekend and i'm still in total amazement ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif The car just moved like a bat from hell and it just keep going in the RPM. As far as i could tell the only draw back would be the loud exhaust system. Does a PP still make good power with a good exhaust system to quiet the ear piercing noise. Also, has anyone ever done a BP on a 6 port engine before ? My last question, Do Dellorto's make good power with BP engine's ?

Ok, guys have more pic's of the GLC but i'm really not sure how to up load them here ! I'm able to put one of them but not all the pic's. Is there a gallery photo album where i can do this ?

I'm having problems with my car vibrating when i drive at low and high speed. I'm pulling the engine out tomarrow to start the rebuild on the engine. I believe that the problem is coming from the drive shaft or a bad bearing in the Differential. These are area that i'm going to check but first i'd like to know the other possibilities that might cause an issue like this. Also, i notice that the car vibrates with my Weld rims and my stock 1gen rims as well. I'd appreciate any suggestion from yo guys ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

Have you done any hard launches? You might have a bent axle.

Well, before i had the 13B in the GLC I had a 12A that i used to beat the **** out of ! I would lauch the car in the 6K and highier RPM range. I check the diff this weekend and found that the left side axle was bent ! So, i'll be replacing that soon. I'm also very close to completing S5 engine. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

is that the standard rear axle you have bent ? did it hold up to much abuse ? I'm just wondering how long mine is going to last after its been rotorfied https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

I plan to break mine before I upgrade the engine's power. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

they do last a little while with standardish rotary power then https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

GLC13B,

You were asking about a PP engine. I know where one is for sale as we speak. It is not a running engine. It is the plates ,the 12A rotor housings and the intake, and maybe the front cover. The end plates have seen ( I think he said ) two races and the housings are new. He wants $1,400 for it.



Were you wanting this PP for racing or the street? Cause remember a PP motor idles around 2100 - 2300 RPM and seriously sucks down the fuel as soon as pressure is applied to the throttle and I would only use a Weber IDA "down draft" carb, now that they make them again.



Now for sound, there is no way around the exhaust noise if you want all the HP the motor wants to give you. She is sucking in a shitload of air and fuel and needs a good size exhaust system to flow through. No less than 2.5 ID



And last but not least the motor will only last you 6-12 months, depending on your driving. Well, that's how often I've seen them come back to the shop for rebuilding. You may have better luck.



If you want I have a pic of it. PM me and I'll send it to you.

I was interested in a PP engine but i've redirected my attention to my s5 engine and purchased the rebuilt kit "C" from atkins. I'm in the process of building now.



As far as the stock rear it didn't last at all very long. The 12A really put a hurting on the diff and the 13B finished it off. I replaced the diff with a datsun rear which bolted right up. Big difference and holds the power well.

What Datsun axle did you use ? I like the sound of it bolting in https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif and my mate is well into his old Datsuns.

I've always wondered, What actually breaks (or is worn out) in a PP motor to require rebuilds as often as they do? And is it due in whole to the RPMs at which they want to be twisted to?

I used a rear end from a 74 Datsun pick-up truck. I had the axle sent out to a machine shop to get the bolt pattern of 4x110 mm. The gear ratio is perfect for the street, 4.37 with an open axle. These diff fit perfectly for Toyota Starlets and Mazda GLC.

How did you hook up the brakes?

I replaced the old lines with new brake line and the exact same length and diamiter. There really isn't anything speacial about the brake's that need to be meantioned ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

That's good news if I decide not to get Steve's. I need to sort out the front first before I mess with the rear though.

Jeff, i'm going to be replacing the diff in the GLC in the next month or so. I'm going to put a Chevy 10 bolt with 15x10 in rims. Let me know if you're interested in the diff.

I'm thinking about it. If you don't want too much money for it, and I can come up with some cash in the next month, I'll let you know.

Jeff, what are you tring to sort out in the front end of the GLC ? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

I need to raise it. It's got RX-7 struts which lowered it about 2". The extra engine weight isn't helping things. It needs a set of aftermarket springs and some way to raise it a little. Suggestions?

No, I haven't done anything to the front suspension, it's in perfect operating condition. Are the rx-7 spring on the GLC after market or are they the stock springs for the rx ? Jeff, if you're interested in that diff let me know asap cause i'm droping it in two weeks or so. I'll even send it with the brackets for the GLC, direct fit.

I'm not sure if it has RX-7 springs or GLC springs in front. It does have RX-7 strut tubes, stut cartridges, and RX-7 front brakes, I believe. Also, the tops of the struts have four studs and the strut towers had three holes. I've seen pictures of RX-2s and 3s with RX-7 strut assemblies before, so it's not an uncommon swap. I don't know what the best way to proceed in raising the front end, at least by a little, because I don't have access to the original struts, and I don't know suspensions very well. The car was like this when I got it (engineless).



When there is no engine in the car, the front end is up at stock height. With an engine, it looks slammed. The struts or something up front is obviously vastly shorter than it ought to be. I don't know if this is a good thing or not.



I need to raise the front end some how. If I have to build some 2" spacers or brackets to raise the car to a respectable level, it's hopefully not beyond my meager abilities. Wishful thinking. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png What I have in mind is something kind of like the opposite of the Racing Beat lowering kit where instead of raising the upper mounting point to lower the car, it will lower the mounting point to raise the car. I'm sure some aftermarket springs like Racing Beat or Eibach (if Eibach is still available) wouldn't hurt.



Man, I really don't know what I'm doing when it comes to suspension. Where's heretic when you need him?



As for your rearend, it would be nice to get it, but I have no money at this time. I'm not sure when I'll get any for this project. I'll let you know as soon as I know. Hopefully within two weeks.

I have a website somewhere around here that has after market suspension parts for are types of car's. I believe there in UK and i'm going to have to search for it. I really don't know how much more the 3rotor weight compared to a 13B but my car is still perky from the front. I also believe that the springs from the GLC are taller than a rx spring. What year rx suspension do you have in the GLC ? Are the brake's bigger than the stock GLC brake's ?

Also, You pay for the shipping and it's your's ! You can square me away later !

The 20B supposedly weighs 75 to 80 pounds more than a typical 13B from the same era. That would mean S5 and 13B-RE. I lightened mine by removing the stock heavy turbos (62lbs) and waterpump. I replaced them with a 21lbs header with most of its weight at the rear of the engine and behind, and an S4 NA waterpump at only 9lbs. The extra length of the engine (160mm) went rearward only. It also got a Racing Beat light steel flywheel.



Compared to the 13B that I briefly had in the car, the 20B weighs only about 40lbs more because the 13B was all set up to go into my REPU, including the stock 30+ lbs flywheel and cast iron waterpump along with heavy (early) rotors and all that jazz. I'm going to relocate the battery to the rear hatch area and having recently weighed a typical group size 24 battery and finding it to weigh a little over 40lbs, there is a chance the 20B will break even in weight over the front wheels now that the battery (another group size 24) has been removed. It's still 40lbs more than an S5 or 13B-RE, but 40 is better than 75 or 80. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I'm hoping some suspension work will make the front end feel lighter and mask the extra weight. That sure would be great.



The front springs must have sagged or something because it's awfully soft in front. They're definitely stock springs. Aftermarket wouldn't be that wussy. The extra weight is of course part of the problem because it feels tightly sprung with no engine in the bay. That's the sort of suspension stiffness I'd like with an engine in there. That's how my REPUs are. Man, I wish I knew all the details of my car's swap because it would make this a lot easier.



I think the front disc brakes are from a '79 SA22C. They are vented if I remember correctly. Did '79 have vented rotors? The calipers are different from REPU/RX-4 etc, which I'm more familier with, but the pads are the same.



You're willing the let your rearend go just for the cost of shipping? Or would I still owe you something later? I'm confused.

I've got rx7 struts on the front of mine now, with coilover tubes and 12" long 180lb springs I can raise the car above standard ride height and drop it to somewhere sensible.



For a good deal of info on what I have done check out http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/show...4767#post154767



I believe the company who do parts for 323;s are whiteline and they are based in Aus ... theres some other place that does uprated springs too (peddars?!)



Got to sort the brakes and test drive it now https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

It looks like I need to be a member of that site.

Jeff, If you need the diff then it's your's ! You have help me many time's before so, in return you need something and i have it, then it's your's ! When you're ready for the diff just PM me.

That is really cool! I have a couple engines to rebuild and one to install and get running for my brother before I can get back to the GLC. I'll let you know when I'm ready. Shouldn't take more time than, oh uh... weather permitting, maybe a few weeks? Or maybe sooner. Can you hang on to it for a few weeks?

That shouldn't be a problem ! I'm taking the car to the Chassy shop in about two to three weeks from now, so then i'll let you know it's off. I'm going to leave the stock brackets and all the other little things from the GLC that you'll need to place it right in like a stock differential.



Hey, By any chance you know the number or e-mail adderess to Whiteline suspension ?

That will be very helpful. Thank you.



Sorry, I've never heard of Whiteline suspension.