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Yea. Im An Idiot, Help Me Anyway

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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 07:23 PM
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how the hell do you get the waterpump off, it hits the main pulley, and the fan is in the way the whole time.



I see the little hole in the top of the water pump, i assumed that you stuck something in there to stop it from spinning to get the fan off, but it doesn't work, I don't really need to get the fan off, just the water pump,



and



hwo about the huge nut on the back that holds the counterweight on? just torque hard to get off? same with the bolt on the main pully? pull hard? I just don't want to knock anything out of line.
Old Mar 1, 2004 | 08:11 PM
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1. Unbolt the pulleys from the front hub.

2. The little hole is a weep hole. Coolant leaks out of here when your water pump seals go. Don't stick anything in there.

3. use a counterweight brake and then zip the nut off with an impact gun or a breaker bar. Same with the bolt on the front. They both ahve red loctite on them, try heating them with propane or MAPP gas first to denature the chemical bonds and allow them to easily be removed. The rear nut is 54mm and torqued to nearly 400 ft-lbs, the front is 19mm and torqued to about half the value.

You won't break anything using the right sized sockets. The only thing that will break is your tools.
Old Mar 1, 2004 | 09:04 PM
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is the one on the front reverse thread by chance?
Old Mar 1, 2004 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by venomrx7' date='Mar 1 2004, 11:04 PM
is the one on the front reverse thread by chance?
No.



And for what its worth, I usually have more of a problem with the front pulley bolt than the flywheel nut.
Old Mar 1, 2004 | 09:39 PM
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yea, I've noticed, I'm tempted to just put the breaker bar on there and jump on the other end. lol, i'll figure somethin out, and my impact wrench is a ***** one, i can torque more by hand.
Old Mar 1, 2004 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by venomrx7' date='Mar 1 2004, 11:39 PM
yea, I've noticed, I'm tempted to just put the breaker bar on there and jump on the other end. lol, i'll figure somethin out, and my impact wrench is a ***** one, i can torque more by hand.
An impact gun is the only way. I broke a 3/4" breaker bar with the help of an 8 foot cheater bar, and it didnt budge one bit. Get a strong impact gun, and have some patience, it may take a few minutes of abuse from the impact gun, but it will coem off eventually.
Old Mar 1, 2004 | 10:03 PM
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the 19mm one? seems like it would strip or round off after that much pounding, hrmm, I'll hit it tomorrow, to late now.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 03:04 AM
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I can always get the 19mm one by hand with an 24" 3/4 drive breaker bar after heating it with MAPP. Once you break down the factory loctitie, it's only 180 ft-lbs, so 90 lbs at the end of my breaker bar.



You'll never round it with a 6 point 19mm socket. Its tough steel.
Old Mar 2, 2004 | 06:45 PM
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ok that will work, and do you have any idea how hard it is to find a 54mm socket? I finally found one to borrow after calling lots of friends, and , just for you to know, 2 1/8" is the same as 54mm, we found that out, now I'm just waitin on the impact wrench. and the front one should be off tonight
Old Mar 4, 2004 | 10:36 AM
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ok,I got the 54mm one off using a 3/4" drive impact wrench, only took it one or two blows and it spun right off, but the 19mm one is giving me hell, I cant get it off, I'm having to use my little 1/2" drive one on it. this is a s5 n/a motor, is it reverse thread? I hit it for almost 5 minutes multiple times and it won't budge. PLEASE HELP



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