mazdaspeed7

Lets play "whats wrong with this picture?" Whos gonna be first?

RONIN FC

Id say in the area of 250 rwhp, + - 20.

cembrent

Not sure what that means. If you mean why aren't the turbo's lined up, just haven't got to it yet. Just dropped the eng. in at about noon today. There's even more room than I expected. You still haven't told us what standalone your running. Or your experience with the rtek. I'm a little curious.

IGY

The 550/720 combo being a restriction, and the stock flow meter , I say 350rwhp is possible using 55psi plus static fuel pressure. You will want to put the flow meter in the IC piping it does take boost fine, and the difference can be tuned out easily, and it will mean 1 less "Y" pipe you will have to make fit.

rotaryinspired

I personally haven't ran a Rtek, but it seems to me to get the full use of the setup you will need the standalone. The only reason I say this is that all the 2nd gen ECU's I have seen are generally have scorched resitors and such. So a moddified stock ECU alarms me.



I hope you prove some people wrong and it works the way you want. Please post your results.



I have a very similar setup planned for my FD when the motor craps, but I am at 72K and it is still super strong. It seems two properly sized turbos could flow the same amount as a large turbo and spool much faster.



I really look forward to hear how this turns out. Keep us updated.

j9fd3s

resume first: ive had haltechs, e6k, e11, on a 3 rotor fc, and setup and tuned e6k's and e6x's on a couple of fd's and fc's. both turbo and non. my personal t2, was a street car and was happy with a stock ecu/fcon.



1. on a stock car you are missing a little peak power, and a BUNCH of midrange with the stock ecu. the 4000-6000 rpm range is missing a bunch of timing, and thus a huge amount of power.



2. i know from tuning a bunch of different cars, every combo is different. paul and i both had 20b fc's with stock injectors and e6k's, rb turbo back exhausts, they were even both white! and my car would barely run with his map. his car was tuned pretty well too. the stock ecu can compensate better, with the o2 sensor and the afm, but the tq/and VE curves are gonna be way off from the stock setup. you will be able to make it run great under wot, but the cruising and transitions prolly arent gonna work that well.



3. 550/720 isnt a high hp setup, nothing wrong with that. since there seem to be plenty of 1000cc drop in injectors on ebay, id go for those, you wont notice any driveability issues





so to sum up, id say that you're setting up the motor to make a lot of power, but not doing the fuel/ecu mods to really take advantage of em. nothing wrong with that, car should still be fun @10psi, but you're leaving a lot on the table.

mazdaspeed7

Just how do you expect the oil to drain properly fron the turbos with them tilted like that?



You are awefully quick to cast doubt on every one elses experience, especially given the lack of experience on your part thats showing up time and time again. You might want to take a step back and swallow your pride. Noone here is trying to give you bad advice. Those of us who have been around have seen this deal time and time again. We are trying to keep you from making mistakes that will cost you in the long run.

rotarygod

Time for a physics lesson. There is a very flawed and potentially dangerous assumption being made about the rtek and tuning in general. That is that if it is tuned for a set boost level that it will be fine at that level with any turbo setup. Absolutely not! Tuning for boost pressure is not tuning for a set amount of air. Different turbos can flow different amounts of air at the same pressure ratios. One turbo will flow less air at a set psi than two turbos of greater total size can at the same pressure. In reality you are tuning for a set amount of air. You are tuning for an air/fuel ratio at a set boost level at a certain flow level. Assuming that the rtek is tuned to provide correct adjustments for 8 psi on a stock turbo so it will work with any turbo at that boost level is extremely flawed an downright wrong! It won't be tuned properly. Alot of 3rd gen owners have blown up their cars becuse freeing up the intake and exhaust can give you more power at the same boost levels. That means there is more air getting in the engine due to greater efficiency. However more fuel is not being added and it goes lean. Boom. The rtek is also not tuning timing to other air flow and power levels as well. It is all related. Using the SAFC to bandaid up the ecu screwups is like using a bandaid to fix a severed arm. It isn't going to work all that good.



I can't figure out how someone who is willing to take the time and spend the money on twin turbos, all the piping, as well as a host of other mods can't justify paying a little bit to tune it properly. A couple hundred for an rtek, a couple hundred for an SAFC, etc. It adds up. Now we're only talking about a few hundred more to do it properly. It's going to cost alot more than that after you blow it up and it WILL blow up if you bandaid it together! Anyone that doesn't understand the importance of good tuning, how to do it, or understand how and why airflow works shouldn't be doing this much work without first doing some homework. It's a common mistake to think you can just bolt on a turbo or two, bandaid up a tuning solution and then go fast. It's also common to have blown engines. That's not a coincedence. Tuning is easy and isn't rocket science. I've got about $250 into a Megasquirt ecu and it'll run circles around an rtek/safc combo anyday for what it can do. There's just no excuse anymore.



I think this is a neat project but I'm sad it'll never run as good as it has the potential to.

cembrent

That's exactly why I chose this set up. I'm hoping that with the 6port still having good exhaust flow it will still pull hard before boost comes on. This engine made excellent power in na form.



Rotary god. You have some good points as do a lot of people in this thread. As I said before, I've been over it all before. I have a megasquirt in stock just in case. Just didn't feel the need to mention it. Not everyone can afford standalone and a lot of people already have an safc so if this setup works well I can use something similar for a wider range of customers. I want to see for myself what the limitations are before I jump on the "get a standalone" band wagon.



As for safety,I have a wideband it's not like I'm tuning by the seat of my pants. If I can't get a good tune this way, then I'll just have to change the ecu. We'll just have to wait and see.



Mazda speed

Look around. There are a lot of guys running the turbo's tilted to fit them. It's a non issue. Yes I am quick to cast doubt on things I read on here. As are you and most of the others in this thread. I don't believe that everyone online has the experience they claim. Maybe you do. How would I know. Not to mention it's just fun to mess with you.lol



Yes the inj. sizes are on the low side. I really don't think tuning anything larger without a standalone would be productive or safe. Not to mention I don't want to pop the na motor and eat a turbo.(couldn't care less about the eng.) When I drop in the t2 block that I'm building I'll probably run different inj. and most likely go with the 2.0 rtek or my megasquirt. Like I said, I only have so much time. Seems to me a lot of guys are running huge inj. and this causes tuning issues. If you run smaller inj. at a higher duty cycle it's a lot easier to make acurate adjustments.

As for the ecu being old, when they put the chip in they test it.



I'll definitely try running the afm after the turbo's. Thanks guys.



Guess I should have mentioned this car's not going to be street driven. Anyway I've had enough for a while. I'll post something when I get a little further. Should be ready to run in a couple of weeks.