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A Thread on Dry Sump Oil Systems

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Old 10-08-2008, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 12APPT' post='909460' date='Oct 7 2008, 09:30 PM
Thanks Lynn! As usual, you are extremely helpful. I have one final question: Where do the scavenge lines go? I am looking at the Full Race oil picture you made, and all is clear, minus where you get the scavenge from.




In the real deal store bought race engine, you will find the front cover has two dash 10 or dash 12 male fittings welded through side by side, about 2" apart.



Inside, these fittings have a sleeve that is smooth on the inside. Two steel pickup tubes are made up withan "O" ring seal to push into the two slick tubes. These pickup tubes have tabs welded on to accept 1/4"20 bolts. The engine pieces must be trilled and tapped to accept the bolts.



I could not find a loose front cover, so this picture is from tonight, and is a spare engine as removed from an active racer.

This shows the two dash 10 fittings through the front cover. One each for each scavenge hose. A giant pain in the ___ if you have not done it before.



Another option is to use the exsisting pieces to do the same job. If your front relief valve is in the aluminum front cover and in a vertical drilling connected to the oil out location, you can notch the bottom of the vertical gallery about 1/2" by 1/2" and plug the run to the junction with the front iron. Then the old oil out fitting becomes the front scavenge pickup fitting. For the rear,

the outer vertical gallery from the filter housing mount is not used, so make a gasket that blocks the outer oil hole.

So now you can take the oil pressure regulator apart. Discard the spring and piston. Drill a 5/8" into the side of it close to the

spring end. Chamfer the hole opening and clean. Install back into the rear iron, with the hole down. There is your rear pickup. Now your stock banjo fitting is you oil out fitting. Piece of cake. All of my early dry sump engines were done this way. Never a problem.



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Old 10-08-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 12APPT' post='909460' date='Oct 7 2008, 09:30 PM
Thanks Lynn! As usual, you are extremely helpful. I have one final question: Where do the scavenge lines go? I am looking at the Full Race oil picture you made, and all is clear, minus where you get the scavenge from.
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Old 10-08-2008, 02:38 PM
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Those pictures helped a ton Lynn! Thanks again for them.



On the last paragraph, are you stating that I could use the Stock oil cooler fittings on the engine for the front and rear scavenge?
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Old 10-08-2008, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 12APPT' post='909503' date='Oct 8 2008, 12:38 PM
Those pictures helped a ton Lynn! Thanks again for them.



On the last paragraph, are you stating that I could use the Stock oil cooler fittings on the engine for the front and rear scavenge?


I just saw off the outer part of the fitting. Leaving the wrenching hex. I clean that up in the lathe and weld on the outer part of a steel AN or SAE hydraulic fitting.



On the back, I saw off the metric fitting on the banjo, and weld on another piece of a SAE AN or JIC/Hydraulic fitting. Then you can use all AN hose and hose ends on everything. I don't do any of that anymore. I have three of the Mandevile style front covers.



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Old 11-10-2008, 04:30 PM
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How does this look for a cheap dry sump setup?



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Old 11-10-2008, 04:43 PM
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Or even simper using the OEM filter mount. However making the filter remote before the cooler meant that I wouldn't be sending dirty oil through the cooler and clogging it up.



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