teardrops on the e-shaft
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 500
From: Minneapolis,MN
Originally Posted by diabolical1' post='804697' date='Feb 27 2006, 09:34 AM
by the way, as you can see this shaft is pretty ratty. i went at with a fine emory cloth a few minutes after i took the pics, not much, but just to see if it will get the rust spots off - rather discouraging as some spots don't look like they are coming out. i'll have an earnest go at it after i clean the oil passages, maybe later, maybe tomorrow. still a little weak ...
at any rate, i plan to have ISC Racing polish it for me - probably a dumb question - but do you think that all the spots will come off when they're done?
Polising uses ~400 grit. First you spin it one way with say ~320 then the other way with ~400.
It does not take off much.
Looks very promising though, gonna give it a whirl on my RE
Fabricator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,322
From: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Originally Posted by diabolical1' post='804696' date='Feb 27 2006, 09:28 AM
here's another ...
Those look fine.
If you cannot feel the marks with your fingernail, just a cleanup will be fine.
Picture is looking at seal tracks through a see through rotor.
Lynn E. Hanover
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 500
From: I don't really exist ...
okay ... i just finished doing the shaft for the engine (a streetport 12A) that i'll be putting together for use while i build the 13B. first off, i noticed that the 13B (an '87) shaft that i snapped the photos of has a slightly different oil passage scheme than the 12A.
the front main has 2 oil passages on the 13B, while the 12A has only 1. does it have something to do with the thermal pellet on the 13B? i'm just curious ...
i can't wait to get the 13B (an '84) out of my car and tear it down to see the shaft on that.
anyway ... the real reason for making this post is to get some direction on how to properly clean the oil passages. i'd love to get some pressurized gasoline (or similar solvent) going through to clean them thoroughly. as you can imagine the metal dust that came from making the teardrops and i simply don't want anything but oil going through when i finally fire the engine. would a local engine builder (no rotary places are local to me) be able to handle it?
i'd love to do it myself, but i have no qualms about having someone else do it as long as it's done right. any instructions or recommendation for professional help is greatly appreciated.
the front main has 2 oil passages on the 13B, while the 12A has only 1. does it have something to do with the thermal pellet on the 13B? i'm just curious ...
i can't wait to get the 13B (an '84) out of my car and tear it down to see the shaft on that.
anyway ... the real reason for making this post is to get some direction on how to properly clean the oil passages. i'd love to get some pressurized gasoline (or similar solvent) going through to clean them thoroughly. as you can imagine the metal dust that came from making the teardrops and i simply don't want anything but oil going through when i finally fire the engine. would a local engine builder (no rotary places are local to me) be able to handle it?
i'd love to do it myself, but i have no qualms about having someone else do it as long as it's done right. any instructions or recommendation for professional help is greatly appreciated.
Fabricator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,322
From: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Originally Posted by diabolical1' post='805429' date='Mar 2 2006, 11:49 AM
anyway ... the real reason for making this post is to get some direction on how to properly clean the oil passages. i'd love to get some pressurized gasoline (or similar solvent) going through to clean them thoroughly. as you can imagine the metal dust that came from making the teardrops and i simply don't want anything but oil going through when i finally fire the engine. would a local engine builder (no rotary places are local to me) be able to handle it?
Buy a pickle bucket from Mickey Dees.
Buy a Little Giant fountain pump. Put a length of plastic hose onto the pump outlet.
Place the pump in the pickle bucket. (the pickles have been removed).
Pour in 2 gallons of kerosene.
There you are. A cleaning tank.
Now take the crank to the do it yourself car wash. Wash the car.
Place a floor mat on the floor of the car wash. Use the high pressure nozzle on the oil passages in the crank.
Take it home and use your new cleaning tank and pump.
Blow out all of the passages with compressed air. While wearing eye protection.
Lynn E. Hanover
Fabricator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,322
From: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Originally Posted by diabolical1' post='805429' date='Mar 2 2006, 11:49 AM
okay ... i just finished doing the shaft for the engine (a streetport 12A) that i'll be putting together for use while i build the 13B. first off, i noticed that the 13B (an '87) shaft that i snapped the photos of has a slightly different oil passage scheme than the 12A.
the front main has 2 oil passages on the 13B, while the 12A has only 1. does it have something to do with the thermal pellet on the 13B? i'm just curious ...
i can't wait to get the 13B (an '84) out of my car and tear it down to see the shaft on that.
anyway ... the real reason for making this post is to get some direction on how to properly clean the oil passages. i'd love to get some pressurized gasoline (or similar solvent) going through to clean them thoroughly. as you can imagine the metal dust that came from making the teardrops and i simply don't want anything but oil going through when i finally fire the engine. would a local engine builder (no rotary places are local to me) be able to handle it?
i'd love to do it myself, but i have no qualms about having someone else do it as long as it's done right. any instructions or recommendation for professional help is greatly appreciated.
