Grizzly

So is this another engine? Did you get your half bridge running i noticed you where building a Few months ago?

Drago86

He's talking about shimming the front regulator, which racing beat reccomends, but i see no need for if your running the FD regulator as the front regulator is 140 psi for fc's and fd's afaik.

Buckyfd3

Same engine, i took a chance and used the old rotors which were not in the best shape. The side seal groove were badly carbon'd up and I have to scrape them out with a hacksaw blade they were that bad, looks like the groove has been opened up too much and I am loosing compression.



After 100miles compression is still only 4bar on all 6 faces and its not going up, doesnt start off the key either, needs to be tow started.



So got some T11 rotors for cheap which are in good condition and i'll do the job right this time, got hurley duplex side seals to go in aswell. Going for the tightest tolerance i can for all the seals.

Grizzly

Yeh but they also recomend the Oil jet mod ?? Do you get any smoke from the exhaust or signs of over the top oil presure?

Grizzly

You could get a Hacksaw blade in your side seal groves? Yeh i'd say there goosed.



i've done a few Badly carboned up Rotors and the idea is you soak them first in some thing like brake cleaner or Decarboniser then use a broken side seal to clean the grooves.



I know Half bridges tend to have slightly lower compresion but my cars motor comp tested at 8's all round after 250 miles and to be quite honist i wasn't happy as i spent alot of time getting it right, so now i'm dubble checking every thing on the one i'm building now.

Grizzly

It is important that the Corner seals don't bind ie. with the rotor assembled you can push the corner seal in and they pop back out. If its been cleaned properly you should be able to take the corner seal out with a magnet.

Buckyfd3

I had them soaked for 2 days in industrial degreaser, was a f*ck-up from the start to be honest. A broken side seal didn't do the job, just got stuck.



8bar is fine if you think about it, id be happy with that.



I'll be doing the rotors for 3mm seals this week and fitting all the seals and doing the clearances, so i'll post back when i sort it all.

Grizzly

If you don't mind me asking why 3mm Apex's? if you set the EMS up properly the 2mm's will seal better and behave better at high RPM?



I guess if the rotors are that bad where you can't clean them with a Side seal they Goosed.

Grizzly

Urm does'nt degreaser get rid of Grease you want some thing that brakes down Carbon, i tried soaking mine in Diesel and that did F.A apart from stink my Garage out.

heretic

NAPA brand carburetor cleaner, and Mopar combustion chamber cleaner are neck-and-neck as far as winning the title for nastiest and best spray-type decarbonizing chemical.



If you really want your rotors CLEAN, get a bucket of Berryman's carburetor dip. It is not as cheap as a few cans of carb cleaner, but it requires zero work. Just remove all plastic or rubber items that you don't want destroyed, put the part in the bucket, ignore it for a day or so, then pull it out of the bucket and immediately rinse it off in kerosene (or Diesel fuel). With maybe a very light scrubbing, your rotors will look new.



Just make sure that there are no "organics" on the part! You will be able to wear your oil O-rings as big, thick, squishy, stinky belts, and play sloppy Ping-Pong with the corner seal rubbers.