I'm looking at machining some 8.5:1 rotors for my engine so i can rev it a bit higher safely without them hitting the side plates. How much do you machine off the 2 faces???



Also I have E shaft oil jet mods done and my oil pressure is just over 4kg/cm (around 4bar) when driving around, is this oil pressure high enough to support the bearing at 9K or should I put the standard oil jets back in the E-shaft??



I dont want to rev it past 9k BTW.



I'm running big Half Bridge and a T04R with all the other supporting mods.

Hitting the Plates is not realy your biggest problem, i'd be looking into makeing the Rotating assembly as light as poss so it does'nt flex at high rpm causing the Rotor to come in contact with the Rotor Housing.

What kind of oil pressure do I need?? its 12thou to be machined off each rotor face.



Is 60psi enough or shall I put the standard e shaft jets in to raise the pressure back up??

I would shim the front regulator and change the rear one for either FD or Racing Beat 115 psi race regulator. Keep the modded jets in the shaft.

I think there is some Crossed wires here, First i presume this is an FD?



Fitting 8.5:1 Rotors will lower your Compression so it will run more boost safely it does'nt have alot to do with RPM, also if you have a Motor thats Briged with a T04r fitted why would you want more RPM unless you are doing some serious Driving like Track use? You would skim the sides of the Rotors so in a high hp Aplication the Rotors don't expand with the extra heat involved and makecontact with the Plates, its more of a High HP mod rather than a Rpm, youd be better race clearancing the Rotors for your 450hp car and if you want more RPM buy a Racebeat Lightened Rotating assembly.



If you want more Oil presure at your sort of Spec engine i'd say look at a Dry sump set up becouse you'd be running out of Options with the std Set up.

Did you have a look at the Jets you removed? the Stock jets are dramaticly Bigger than the Webber 1.2's and you have restricted the flow maybe even reduced it at High rpm.



I'd say compare the Std ones and the webber ones and run the bigger. There is a reason Mazda made them the way they are, thats becouse to run 2mm or bigger will cause it to burn oil on Idle and low RPM but when they open they flow alot more.

sorry its an FD, I am running atkins oil jets which are smallerr than the std ones but without the spring and ball so oil pressure has dropped a bit.



how much does the front regulator need to be shimmed??



thanks for the replies.

just take the regulator off and putt a couple of washers on there

Isn't an Fd oil reg 110psi anyway?

Right,



I have just taken 10thou off each rotor face, so thats now done.



Finally oil pressure????? anything need to be done or not??