Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps All you could ever want to know about rebuilding and porting your rotary engine! Discussions also on Water, Alcohol, Etc. Injection

Stronger Dowel Pins?! Need Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-26-2003, 08:53 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
13BAce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,316
Default

Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' date='Nov 26 2003, 05:30 PM
I think im gonna try them out.. This however will put a damper on getting this setup all ready. I still need to buy the ecu and injectors, wastegate, etc ... And right now my budget is at 3k left in the pool. 800 for housing/engine 1000 for ecu ... 1200 for other parts to get it moving.



Think i can pull it off?
There's only one way to find out.
13BAce is offline  
Old 12-23-2003, 07:08 AM
  #12  
Junior Member
 
Sharky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 11
Default

i use 12 dowls and 26psi boost and have no problems with a series 5 engine
Sharky is offline  
Old 12-23-2003, 08:15 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
twstdmtl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Central KY
Posts: 292
Default

Originally Posted by mazda_racer' date='Nov 26 2003, 05:50 PM
I'm just in the process of putting my 13B NA PP back together.



I'm using the 3mm apex seals from Rotary Beat (Australian agent).



This racing engine saw eight years of competition (with a 9500 RPM redline) and the only reason I bought new apex seals is because I broke one of the originals getting the buggers out (clumsy me!). The other five apex seals were still within spec!!



I had new rotors milled to 3mm by the same agent.



I bought a used e-shaft and my housings had nil warp.



Cheers,

Peter
I know this is off the original topic but...



mazda_racer what brand 3mm did you use in your PP? What would you recomend in a high compression 6port BP?



You guys are really selling me on 3mm apex seals for both N/A and turbo applications. I like to hear from people who have actually used them.
Attached Images  
twstdmtl is offline  
Old 12-23-2003, 12:18 PM
  #14  
BDC
Senior Member
 
BDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 917
Default

Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' date='Nov 26 2003, 12:08 AM
Ok, so my engine is just about ready to be put back together.. im going through my check list of things and im concerned about my dowel pins. Im targeting around 450-500+ hp with 20-25psi. Im using atkins 2mm apex seals, with large seconday porting and mild primary, done by me. Again, my concern lies with the dowel pins, we all know they're prone to crack on s5 13bt. Ive been kinda looking around but havent had much luck in finding practical methods of strengthening that area. Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks!
This is a bit of an area of controversy so far as I've seen in my experience. Granted, I don't have a bunch of 500+ horsepower cars out there, but I've got a couple (working on #3). Everything that I've read and seen suggests that isn't not a strength issue of the dowel pins (or an issue of adding more) but rather it's one of tuning. From what I gather, the forces generated from improper engine combustion (any kind of knock; pre-ignition or detonation) generates pressures in the combustion chamber that far exceed anything it would normally see under great loads to produce the power you're looking for. I think if the engine is setup properly with good spark timing, proper trigger output and input, fuelling, and any additional combustion chamber cooling, then it won't be an issue.



The S5 rear iron has much thicker iron casting around the upper rear tubular dowel pin; the earlier S4's and back are thinner. When those engines knock for whatever reason under the sun, that area can suffer minute-sized cracks that lead to oil depressurization (seen it personally). I haven't seen it in on an S5, FD, Cosmo 13B-RE yet. If you're using an S5, I wouldn't be concerned.



B
BDC is offline  
Old 12-26-2003, 12:26 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
GMON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Minneapolis,MN
Posts: 500
Default

If you were gonna do this, how would you do it?



GregW
GMON is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 11:02 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
GMON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Minneapolis,MN
Posts: 500
Default

bump
GMON is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 11:16 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
toddp31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Misawa Japan
Posts: 826
Default

You don't need to run 3mm apex seals, stock apex seals can handle any amount of boost you can throw at them given it is tuned right. I also don't think dowel pin's are needed either, At least in Japan it isn't done.
toddp31 is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 11:41 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
GMON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Minneapolis,MN
Posts: 500
Default

Blaaahhhhh.



So. Anyone have a "good" pick of a rotary with an extra dowel???? I would really like to see how its done.



How bout a pic of where the s4 rear ones crack?



GregW
GMON is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 11:47 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
toddp31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Misawa Japan
Posts: 826
Default

it is your money
toddp31 is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 12:07 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
GMON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Minneapolis,MN
Posts: 500
Default

Some of us dont need money to make an engine have a few extra dowel pins. We just need to know where to drill and how big to make the pins on a lathe. I assume you make some of the tension bolt holes a little bigger and then make your pin so the bolt can still fit through. But in this case a pic would be worth 10k words. But words would be cool also.



This is a pre-thanks for any info



GregW
GMON is offline  


Quick Reply: Stronger Dowel Pins?! Need Help



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:09 PM.