Ok, so my engine is just about ready to be put back together.. im going through my check list of things and im concerned about my dowel pins. Im targeting around 450-500+ hp with 20-25psi. Im using atkins 2mm apex seals, with large seconday porting and mild primary, done by me. Again, my concern lies with the dowel pins, we all know they're prone to crack on s5 13bt. Ive been kinda looking around but havent had much luck in finding practical methods of strengthening that area. Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks!

If you don't plan on running more than 20-25 PSI you should be ok, as long as the tuning is good. The S4 rear plate is the weak one. The S5 plate is a little stronger.

yeah thats true ... im just trying to be cautious.. ive never run more than 15psi on the stock turbo. So 20-25 on a big turbo is new to me. lol...

But its coming along well it seems... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I just need to find someone i can buy an ecu from!!



I was curious about some other things too, such as oil modifications. Again, its a s5 block with a factory redline at 7k and rpm limit at 8200, I want to be able to run into 9k rpm range. Will the factory s5 block handle this? Im a little worried about changing the rev limit and going to 9k without proper hardware. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

When I had the T-78 I set my redline at 8500 RPM. I was running about 18 PSI for street driving. I didn't do anything special, just the oil pressure regulator. If you're worried about high RPM trouble then you should try the rotor bearings and stationary gears that Racing Beat sells. Just buy an ECU already. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/dry.png

*cries* i dont know what ecu to get!! gaaaawd!!



It seems like no one ever wants to sell me a microtech!



As for the stationary gears and bearings, that wouldnt be a bad upgrade at all. However I wonder if its worth it, i dont plan on taking it that high all the time ... im a pretty conservative driver, but once in awhile i would like to dive in it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

For occasional runs to 8500 you should be ok with the stock parts, but the upgraded gears and bearings would give you a good safety net. Also, get a damn ECU!

I just talked to .. oh ****, forgot his name... at rotary specialties in canada. They have the cheapest housings i can find... 380 :(

Anyways, i was talking to him for quite awhile about apex seals and his experiences with different brands. He said hes seen the atkins 2mm seals break easily under higher boost (15+) and wouldnt recommend any 2mm seal past 20psi. He gave me some charming info on his 3mm seals he uses. He said he is deliberatly trying to break them by pinging on a high boost application. And has yet to break them. That gives me some reassurance with the 3mm seals. I can send my rotors to him and get them milled, get the new 3mm seals, and a new housing for 800 bucks from him. Sound like a good deal? I know the debate between 2mm and 3mm is an ongoing thing, but i want to hear from people with ACTUAL experience with both. I dont want to blow the engine the first time i try to tune it. Anyways, yeah... so whadda ya think?

I had the 2 piece 3 mm Hurley seals, and overboosting broke the rear plate but left the apex seals intact. $800 sounds like a good price for all of that, but I have no experience with their seals.

I think im gonna try them out.. This however will put a damper on getting this setup all ready. :( I still need to buy the ecu https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R and injectors, wastegate, etc ... And right now my budget is at 3k left in the pool. 800 for housing/engine 1000 for ecu ... 1200 for other parts to get it moving. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png



Think i can pull it off?

I'm just in the process of putting my 13B NA PP back together.



I'm using the 3mm apex seals from Rotary Beat (Australian agent).



This racing engine saw eight years of competition (with a 9500 RPM redline) and the only reason I bought new apex seals is because I broke one of the originals getting the buggers out (clumsy me!). The other five apex seals were still within spec!!



I had new rotors milled to 3mm by the same agent.



I bought a used e-shaft and my housings had nil warp.



Cheers,

Peter