Stronger Dowel Pins?! Need Help
11-26-2003, 02:08 AM
#1
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Ok, so my engine is just about ready to be put back together.. im going through my check list of things and im concerned about my dowel pins. Im targeting around 450-500+ hp with 20-25psi. Im using atkins 2mm apex seals, with large seconday porting and mild primary, done by me. Again, my concern lies with the dowel pins, we all know they're prone to crack on s5 13bt. Ive been kinda looking around but havent had much luck in finding practical methods of strengthening that area. Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks!
11-26-2003, 02:42 AM
#2
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Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' date='Nov 26 2003, 12:08 AM
Ok, so my engine is just about ready to be put back together.. im going through my check list of things and im concerned about my dowel pins. Im targeting around 450-500+ hp with 20-25psi. Im using atkins 2mm apex seals, with large seconday porting and mild primary, done by me. Again, my concern lies with the dowel pins, we all know they're prone to crack on s5 13bt. Ive been kinda looking around but havent had much luck in finding practical methods of strengthening that area. Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks!
11-26-2003, 03:22 AM
#3
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yeah thats true ... im just trying to be cautious.. ive never run more than 15psi on the stock turbo. So 20-25 on a big turbo is new to me. lol...
But its coming along well it seems...
I just need to find someone i can buy an ecu from!!
I was curious about some other things too, such as oil modifications. Again, its a s5 block with a factory redline at 7k and rpm limit at 8200, I want to be able to run into 9k rpm range. Will the factory s5 block handle this? Im a little worried about changing the rev limit and going to 9k without proper hardware.
But its coming along well it seems...
I just need to find someone i can buy an ecu from!!
I was curious about some other things too, such as oil modifications. Again, its a s5 block with a factory redline at 7k and rpm limit at 8200, I want to be able to run into 9k rpm range. Will the factory s5 block handle this? Im a little worried about changing the rev limit and going to 9k without proper hardware.
11-26-2003, 09:48 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' date='Nov 26 2003, 01:22 AM
yeah thats true ... im just trying to be cautious.. ive never run more than 15psi on the stock turbo. So 20-25 on a big turbo is new to me. lol...
But its coming along well it seems...
I just need to find someone i can buy an ecu from!!
I was curious about some other things too, such as oil modifications. Again, its a s5 block with a factory redline at 7k and rpm limit at 8200, I want to be able to run into 9k rpm range. Will the factory s5 block handle this? Im a little worried about changing the rev limit and going to 9k without proper hardware.
But its coming along well it seems...
I just need to find someone i can buy an ecu from!!
I was curious about some other things too, such as oil modifications. Again, its a s5 block with a factory redline at 7k and rpm limit at 8200, I want to be able to run into 9k rpm range. Will the factory s5 block handle this? Im a little worried about changing the rev limit and going to 9k without proper hardware.
11-26-2003, 02:49 PM
#5
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*cries* i dont know what ecu to get!! gaaaawd!!
It seems like no one ever wants to sell me a microtech!
As for the stationary gears and bearings, that wouldnt be a bad upgrade at all. However I wonder if its worth it, i dont plan on taking it that high all the time ... im a pretty conservative driver, but once in awhile i would like to dive in it.
It seems like no one ever wants to sell me a microtech!
As for the stationary gears and bearings, that wouldnt be a bad upgrade at all. However I wonder if its worth it, i dont plan on taking it that high all the time ... im a pretty conservative driver, but once in awhile i would like to dive in it.
11-26-2003, 05:06 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' date='Nov 26 2003, 12:49 PM
*cries* i dont know what ecu to get!! gaaaawd!!
It seems like no one ever wants to sell me a microtech!
As for the stationary gears and bearings, that wouldnt be a bad upgrade at all. However I wonder if its worth it, i dont plan on taking it that high all the time ... im a pretty conservative driver, but once in awhile i would like to dive in it.
It seems like no one ever wants to sell me a microtech!
As for the stationary gears and bearings, that wouldnt be a bad upgrade at all. However I wonder if its worth it, i dont plan on taking it that high all the time ... im a pretty conservative driver, but once in awhile i would like to dive in it.
11-26-2003, 06:16 PM
#7
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I just talked to .. oh ****, forgot his name... at rotary specialties in canada. They have the cheapest housings i can find... 380 
Anyways, i was talking to him for quite awhile about apex seals and his experiences with different brands. He said hes seen the atkins 2mm seals break easily under higher boost (15+) and wouldnt recommend any 2mm seal past 20psi. He gave me some charming info on his 3mm seals he uses. He said he is deliberatly trying to break them by pinging on a high boost application. And has yet to break them. That gives me some reassurance with the 3mm seals. I can send my rotors to him and get them milled, get the new 3mm seals, and a new housing for 800 bucks from him. Sound like a good deal? I know the debate between 2mm and 3mm is an ongoing thing, but i want to hear from people with ACTUAL experience with both. I dont want to blow the engine the first time i try to tune it. Anyways, yeah... so whadda ya think?
Anyways, i was talking to him for quite awhile about apex seals and his experiences with different brands. He said hes seen the atkins 2mm seals break easily under higher boost (15+) and wouldnt recommend any 2mm seal past 20psi. He gave me some charming info on his 3mm seals he uses. He said he is deliberatly trying to break them by pinging on a high boost application. And has yet to break them. That gives me some reassurance with the 3mm seals. I can send my rotors to him and get them milled, get the new 3mm seals, and a new housing for 800 bucks from him. Sound like a good deal? I know the debate between 2mm and 3mm is an ongoing thing, but i want to hear from people with ACTUAL experience with both. I dont want to blow the engine the first time i try to tune it. Anyways, yeah... so whadda ya think?
11-26-2003, 06:51 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by sidewinderx7' date='Nov 26 2003, 04:16 PM
I just talked to .. oh ****, forgot his name... at rotary specialties in canada. They have the cheapest housings i can find... 380
Anyways, i was talking to him for quite awhile about apex seals and his experiences with different brands. He said hes seen the atkins 2mm seals break easily under higher boost (15+) and wouldnt recommend any 2mm seal past 20psi. He gave me some charming info on his 3mm seals he uses. He said he is deliberatly trying to break them by pinging on a high boost application. And has yet to break them. That gives me some reassurance with the 3mm seals. I can send my rotors to him and get them milled, get the new 3mm seals, and a new housing for 800 bucks from him. Sound like a good deal? I know the debate between 2mm and 3mm is an ongoing thing, but i want to hear from people with ACTUAL experience with both. I dont want to blow the engine the first time i try to tune it. Anyways, yeah... so whadda ya think?
Anyways, i was talking to him for quite awhile about apex seals and his experiences with different brands. He said hes seen the atkins 2mm seals break easily under higher boost (15+) and wouldnt recommend any 2mm seal past 20psi. He gave me some charming info on his 3mm seals he uses. He said he is deliberatly trying to break them by pinging on a high boost application. And has yet to break them. That gives me some reassurance with the 3mm seals. I can send my rotors to him and get them milled, get the new 3mm seals, and a new housing for 800 bucks from him. Sound like a good deal? I know the debate between 2mm and 3mm is an ongoing thing, but i want to hear from people with ACTUAL experience with both. I dont want to blow the engine the first time i try to tune it. Anyways, yeah... so whadda ya think?
11-26-2003, 07:30 PM
#9
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I think im gonna try them out.. This however will put a damper on getting this setup all ready. I still need to buy the ecu and injectors, wastegate, etc ... And right now my budget is at 3k left in the pool. 800 for housing/engine 1000 for ecu ... 1200 for other parts to get it moving.
Think i can pull it off?
I still need to buy the ecu Think i can pull it off?
11-26-2003, 07:50 PM
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 59
I'm just in the process of putting my 13B NA PP back together.
I'm using the 3mm apex seals from Rotary Beat (Australian agent).
This racing engine saw eight years of competition (with a 9500 RPM redline) and the only reason I bought new apex seals is because I broke one of the originals getting the buggers out (clumsy me!). The other five apex seals were still within spec!!
I had new rotors milled to 3mm by the same agent.
I bought a used e-shaft and my housings had nil warp.
Cheers,
Peter
I'm using the 3mm apex seals from Rotary Beat (Australian agent).
This racing engine saw eight years of competition (with a 9500 RPM redline) and the only reason I bought new apex seals is because I broke one of the originals getting the buggers out (clumsy me!). The other five apex seals were still within spec!!
I had new rotors milled to 3mm by the same agent.
I bought a used e-shaft and my housings had nil warp.
Cheers,
Peter