well i'm not an expert with plug selection. though i have heard people having more issues with colder plugs and once they get to that level of power plug selection is more critical cause you need a colder plug so that it doesnt detonate, but it's often hard to find one that has good starting ability. I would think once you get the timing and fuel maps right, everything should be good..



yes you can turn idle control off by putting all zero's in the IDLE colums, at that point you will have to adjust everything manually. Chuck westbrook has a good writeup in his tuning notes on how to do this.



Bridgeport will require a little higher idle setting, and according to chucks notes once you have a certain amount of modifications the power fc can't effectively control the idle.



Personally i think adjusting either the timing or the fuel (maybe both) using the water temp adjustment will be the best way to go about it, you wouldnt want to mess up your cold start by playing with the other maps.



Maybe it's already set to take fuel out under hot start? Maybe it takes too much out

Maybe it already advances the ignition under hot start? Maybe it advances it too much or not enough.



Bridgports require more fuel, hot starting requires less fuel



Have you had the car retuned with the Bridgport? and do you have a wideband o2? do you use the dataloggit?

 

yepp, found out that the FC cant hold my idle, so i'm going over to adjust it myself.



checked my compression today, around 5-6bars on both rotors, this on hot engine..



have not got the car retuned yet, have tuned some on the cruising, but not more. jep, have a plx wideband, and that linked to the datalogit..



thanks for all help!

 

ALRIGHT COOL. let me know how it turns out? did you get the hot starting sorted out?

 

yep, i'll keep you updated,had to tear my enginge down yesterday, found some bearing-dust in my oil, and that came fram the front shaft bearing. totally smashed.. wonder why, it seems to have got oilpressure too... used the same bearing and shaft as the enginge wasa running smooth with before, no of limits clearences...



whatever, new bearings, oilpump, water/oil seals and sideseals ordered, new polished shaft is lying here and just waiting to get in the engine...

 

Primer map; too much advance while cranking when hot, perhaps. Fire lead spark around 5-7*BTDC at cranking.



B

 

Thrust warrrsher installed backwards? No end-play?



http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/Technica...over-Assembly/



Or do you mean the front stationary gear bearing? Imbalanced assembly? Loose flywheel nut or front crank bolt? Front stationary gear bearing not installed properly? Top of the bearing flush with the recess in the gear's bearing land where the thrust washer rests?



B

 

Its the front stationary gear bearing that is damaged.



the assambly is the same as before the tear down, exept a housing. no loose bolts or nuts.. pretty sure i installed the gear in the correct way.. have too check if the bearing is flush with the recess, I'll take some pictures today!



Stig

 

here is a picture of the front stationary gear bearing... it's loose to



can see on the other bearings that fragments from this bearing has passed throug the engine... so all of them is going to be changed..