starting a rebuilt s4 13b street port
#1
Ok I'm having troubles getting my 88 s4 na started. It has been rebuild with used but in great shape rotor housing, new seals, resurfaced iron, and a street port done. Its stared once blew a bunch of smoke ran for a min then I shut off. Went to start it again and I'm having just as much trouble getting it stared. It wants to flood out when I crank it. It sends gas filled smoke out the exhaust so I pulled the egi fuse cranked the motor a few times and replaced the fuse and go to start it again and the same old thing happens! Anyone have any answer or helpfull tips to help this isue?? Please help.
#2
Ok I'm having troubles getting my 88 s4 na started. It has been rebuild with used but in great shape rotor housing, new seals, resurfaced iron, and a street port done. Its stared once blew a bunch of smoke ran for a min then I shut off. Went to start it again and I'm having just as much trouble getting it stared. It wants to flood out when I crank it. It sends gas filled smoke out the exhaust so I pulled the egi fuse cranked the motor a few times and replaced the fuse and go to start it again and the same old thing happens! Anyone have any answer or helpfull tips to help this isue?? Please help.
The usual problem with rebuilds is too much end clearance on side seals, and low compression. So low heat of compression and no fuel vaporization. This just leads to wet plugs and no start. One clue was that it started up OK ran for a few seconds and quit. The assembly lube is now in the exhaust pipe and there is lower compression. Install clean dry plugs Squirt a few shots of motor oil in to each rotor housing and start it again. Do all starts outside in the case of a fire.
Low cranking speed can add to the low compression problem. A clean hot battery and or jumped to a running car will help.
You can clear wet plugs by no injection and cranking with the throttle wide open for a few seconds.
Lynn E. Hanover
#3
Thanks that was very helpfull!!!! I know this might sound stupid but how much should I add? And use motor oil right? 20w50? I've spent a little bit of money on this I just want to break the motor in right. Thanks
#4
Regular motor oil. Whatever is in the sump. Two squirts from a pump style can or a tablespoon full in each housing.
There will be smoke for a while. Check for oil pressure on startup. Run RPM to 1,000. Check for warm water pump outlet with in 1 minute of start.
Lynn E. Hanover
#5
Regular motor oil. Whatever is in the sump. Two squirts from a pump style can or a tablespoon full in each housing.
There will be smoke for a while. Check for oil pressure on startup. Run RPM to 1,000. Check for warm water pump outlet with in 1 minute of start.
Lynn E. Hanover
There will be smoke for a while. Check for oil pressure on startup. Run RPM to 1,000. Check for warm water pump outlet with in 1 minute of start.
Lynn E. Hanover
Cool . thank you lynn ill give it a try should work.
#7
do you know if your injectors are ok? i had this prop with leaky injectors.
also if it continues to idle and stall every time you may have vacuum leaks you can get a boost pressure leak tester and some soapy water to verify. As stated above charged bat and clean plugs try again took me a few starts to get oil pressure and a constant start up but i have vaccum leaks so im workin on that now.
also if it continues to idle and stall every time you may have vacuum leaks you can get a boost pressure leak tester and some soapy water to verify. As stated above charged bat and clean plugs try again took me a few starts to get oil pressure and a constant start up but i have vaccum leaks so im workin on that now.
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