Starting My Rebuild For 1st Time And Run In
04-11-2005, 06:25 AM
#1
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Auckland, New Zealand.
Posts: 707
I just wondered if it is ok to run synthetic on start up of a fresh rebuild and for the run in. I have been running mineral before rebuild but not running OMP anymore so have decided to switch to synthetic.
04-11-2005, 07:12 AM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Use mineral oil for the entire bed-in process, or whatever it's called. I don't use synthetic even on my fully broken-in engines. I don't see a point in using it when I'm just going to change it at 3k intervals. Rotaries don't pollute their oil like boingers do.
04-11-2005, 02:51 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Auckland, New Zealand.
Posts: 707
Thanks. Someone mentioned this to me yesterday and wasn't sure if this was correct. Ive already put the synthetic in but I haven't started it yet. Suppose I should drain it and put mineral in there.
04-12-2005, 01:40 AM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 296
synthetic or mineral
the first generation of synthetic where horrible with rotary engines... but that was more then 15 years ago... now days they reformulated the stuff to get even better high and low protections... they say thats it safe and burns just as clean as 20w-50.....
Some people swear by them.... other people hate them.... I personnely would just stick with 20w-50 and get marvel mystry fluid and pour a little of it in my fuel tank(premix). The stuff makes your exhaust smell a little funky,but I have never seen an engine go bad becuase of it.
rotary are a wierd engine they set pretty fast. i would say about 180-300 miles you can run them harder then a piston driven engine at the same mileage of a break in.
BUT when you do get it where you want it as far as engine wise.. you need to have a heavy foot to burn off any carbon build up.
good luck
the first generation of synthetic where horrible with rotary engines... but that was more then 15 years ago... now days they reformulated the stuff to get even better high and low protections... they say thats it safe and burns just as clean as 20w-50.....
Some people swear by them.... other people hate them.... I personnely would just stick with 20w-50 and get marvel mystry fluid and pour a little of it in my fuel tank(premix). The stuff makes your exhaust smell a little funky,but I have never seen an engine go bad becuase of it.
rotary are a wierd engine they set pretty fast. i would say about 180-300 miles you can run them harder then a piston driven engine at the same mileage of a break in.
BUT when you do get it where you want it as far as engine wise.. you need to have a heavy foot to burn off any carbon build up.
good luck
04-13-2005, 10:36 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 917
[quote name='Battyboy' date='Apr 11 2005, 03:25 AM']I just wondered if it is ok to run synthetic on start up of a fresh rebuild and for the run in. I have been running mineral before rebuild but not running OMP anymore so have decided to switch to synthetic.
[/quote]
I recommend using cheap $1/qt. 30 weight mineral oil for about 500 miles.
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I recommend using cheap $1/qt. 30 weight mineral oil for about 500 miles.
B
04-14-2005, 01:57 AM
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 917
[quote name='Jeff20B' date='Apr 13 2005, 01:28 PM']Straight 30?
[/quote]
Sure, why not? It's cheap, it works, and it's going to be drained in a few hundred miles anyways.
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Sure, why not? It's cheap, it works, and it's going to be drained in a few hundred miles anyways.
B
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