fc3sboy1

ok let us clarify , you need 2 types of sealent. one is hylomar wich is for the waterjacket seals and oil o-rings. the other is sylicon sealent for the bottome edges of the motor to keep oil from seaping. there is no need for sealent on the entire housing face. the water jaket rings seal plenty good.





anyways j9 you asked for the part numbers for the sealent i get from mazda. the grey stuff wich i use everywhere is 8527-77-739 that is the mazda silicone sealent SH780M and the one in the calk gun tube is zjy1-10-431 and that is threebond 1217G. and i get my hylomar from Pegusis racing in newberlin wisconsin. and any real engine shop will have the real hylomar. the permitex crap does not work very well.

j9fd3s

yeah clean everything up, and just put the big parts together without seals and gaskets.



since the rotors are geared, the placement of the first rotor automatically times the second. in other words you cant get it wrong unless you have a really big hammer!



it IS easier to set the front rotor at a tdc or bdc so you know where to put the rear one.

Lynn E. Hanover

Once you do it a few dozen times it won't matter where you place the first rotor as long as the second rotor is in opposition. Side to side works fine also. First rotor at TDC fireing, and second rotor at TDC overlap.



No worries, if you are off a tooth the rotor will not sit inside the housing. I just sit the first (front) rotor on with an apex seal groove pointing straight up. The actual orientation is helpfull when installing the center iron. If alone you must lift the crank nearly out of the front rotor bearing to get enough room to work the center hole aroung the crank center. The TDC method makes this a bit easier. Here are two things that can help.



Slip the dowels out of the front housing to gain some more room. Lower the center iron onto the crank with the top of the iron 90 degrees to the right or left. Easy to hold onto. Goes over the crank easy. Then rotate 90 into the correct position, and install the dowels again.



Make a bracket to support the crank nose that clamps onto the engine stand. Just slide the bracket up until the crank is nearly out of the front bearing and tighten the clamp.



If you have help, install the crank into the center iron first, and lower the assembly onto the engine.

Piece of cake.



If alone, tip the engine to nearly horizontal. Put the crank through the center iron and hold the assembly against your hip. Ease the assembly into place. Turn the engine nose down to complete assembly.



Lynn E. Hanover

j9fd3s

i have an engine stand, but its got a really big base, so getting the engine OFF the stand is hard.



i used a milk crate. this particular one only has 3 sides. so iron goes on top, and when you need to put the center iron, i use the jack from the car to raise the e shaft. nobody's lifting anything, so i can do it myself, and take as long as i want.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AxHx3x9HV0



its easier to spin the center hosing on like that if the rotor is in a certain position...



oh also when you're doing this all the bearing/sliding surfaces should have a little oil/assembly lube or something on em

milano maroon

Thank you all for the replies and information. I think I understand now, it looks like the rotor "timing" is built into the eccentric shaft.



The video was good. Sure makes it look easy.



Jeff