Rebuilding My Motor Myself?
09-07-2003, 07:59 AM
#31
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 4,928
Originally Posted by IGY' date='Sep 7 2003, 04:05 PM
I think Van is spoiled. You don't "need" to do it on an engine stand, but after the first time you build an engine on one you will swear that you do. I've used old beer crates with holes cut in them, and two cinder blocks worked OK to.
So what if I'm spoiled?
09-07-2003, 01:35 PM
#32
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,550
you'll need a fly wheel lock to get the 54mm off the back side and the front e-shaft bolt off or one hell of a impact. If you've already taken off the 54, put the flywheel back on and then screw the 54 on finger tight to put on the flywheel lock and then just pull it back off once you've got the front bolt out.
09-21-2003, 02:00 AM
#33
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: O.C. - CA.
Posts: 840
ok, i bought the fw lock (fr MTrix) and roled the block to GoodYear and asked them to zap it. He tried but it never budged. He tried a bigger gun and still no luck. We tried my breaker bar, but no breaky. We tried a ratchet/wrench and a 3' pipe for an extension and broke the wrench. Do I have to use dynomite and blow it open?
09-24-2003, 06:13 PM
#36
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: O.C. - CA.
Posts: 840
I can check Home Depot for a 6' pipe but then i'd still need at least one other person to stand on the engine or i'll pole vault it through the roof.
My broNlaws friend that custom builds roadsters & classic cars or anything for big bucks said he could take if off with nitrous. So my question is, will 1000psi destroy the bolt (or anything else) if it's only for a second?
My broNlaws friend that custom builds roadsters & classic cars or anything for big bucks said he could take if off with nitrous. So my question is, will 1000psi destroy the bolt (or anything else) if it's only for a second?
09-25-2003, 08:42 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 267
Mate.
Put the motor back together without the rotors. Front plate, housing, dowels, centre plate, dowels, rear housing, rear plate. Use a few through bolts and do them up. This will only take five minutes. Loosely put the flywheel back on (don't forget the woodruff key) and tighten the rear nut by hand. Then lock the flywheel whichever way you feel is best (a friend can help- there are many ways of doing this. I use a specific tool called a flywheel brake that bolts on to the rear housing through one of the bellhousing bolt holes and locks up agains the flywheel teeth.
Get a breaker bar on the front nut and then get a bit of four foot wood (sturdy stuff) and whack the **** out of the breaker bar. The front nut should come straight off. Sometimes just kicking the bar good and hard will do it. Especially if you're a fta bastard like me!
This will only take 20 minutes tops. I do it by myself and learnt to take the nut off first after the first time!
Put the motor back together without the rotors. Front plate, housing, dowels, centre plate, dowels, rear housing, rear plate. Use a few through bolts and do them up. This will only take five minutes. Loosely put the flywheel back on (don't forget the woodruff key) and tighten the rear nut by hand. Then lock the flywheel whichever way you feel is best (a friend can help- there are many ways of doing this. I use a specific tool called a flywheel brake that bolts on to the rear housing through one of the bellhousing bolt holes and locks up agains the flywheel teeth.
Get a breaker bar on the front nut and then get a bit of four foot wood (sturdy stuff) and whack the **** out of the breaker bar. The front nut should come straight off. Sometimes just kicking the bar good and hard will do it. Especially if you're a fta bastard like me!
This will only take 20 minutes tops. I do it by myself and learnt to take the nut off first after the first time!
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