GoRacer

How do you mount the block on to the engine stand? I know I will probably have to buy the adapter plate from Pineapple or Mazdatrix but from the pix i've seen the engine mounted on the side. I don't understand how you can dissasemble the housings this way. If the flywheel side has to be up, then shouldn't the block be attached to the end housing? ...and how do you mount it with the flywheel up instead of horizontal?

GoRacer

Racing Beat (complete-seals, springs, o-rings) rebuild kit 93-95 turbo 13B Part # 30017 $1,360.00

WishIhadaRX7

Nopistons Store (Atkins complete-seals 2mm or 3mm($234.99), springs($59,99), o-rings($399.99)) rebuild kit 93-95 13B



Total=$694.97 Plus I bet Scott will rape you way less on shipping and handling

GoRacer

Actualy RB is 10 min from me, so shipping but I do get taxed. They don't list everything in the kit but it's all gaskets, apex, side, corner & rotor oil seals, o-rings, F/R main seals, evrything that should be replaced. I don't know how JSpecRacer did it for $100? ...I think he only replaced hte water o-rings. There's also DP, turbo, exhaust manifold gaskets. It probably doesn't include all the nuts but I should call and ask and write it down.

WishIhadaRX7

You could call Scott and ask him what is all included in the kits in the store. I'm just trying to save you some money man, you do whatever you need to do.

Dragon

Get an O-ring kit, new apex seals and new long and short apex seal springs and new corner seal springs. You should be able to reuse the side seals, side seal springs and corner seals unless there has been water sitting in the engine. This will rust the corners seals very quickly, but you may be able to clean them up. It would be a good Idea for you to take off the intake manifold now and pour some oil down each runner and turn the engine over a few times adding a little oil ever 1/2 turn of the engine for 1 1/2 turns so you get each side of each rotor, then spin it around a few rotations with out adding any more oil to mix it up a bit and then let it sit for a few days or more. This will loosen up and rust/carbon and make it easier to disassemble and clean up. also make yourself two boxes with 6 small sections labeled 1-6 with a f on one of them and a r on the other so you can keep track of the rotor parts and put them back where they are supposed to go. Also go to the rebuild section of the forum and look at the tips and tricks and posts on rebuilding and learn as much as you can. Good Luck...

GoRacer

Thanks Dragon, hopefully I will get that far.



Ok, so I didn't buy the engine stand adapter from Mazdatrix ($90) so my stand is useless (D'oh). Can I just sit the engine on it's (pully) side on the floor in the garage?

jspecracer7

No. Get the adapter. You'll definitely need it to re-assembly it.

IGY

I think Van is spoiled. You don't "need" to do it on an engine stand, but after the first time you build an engine on one you will swear that you do. I've used old beer crates with holes cut in them, and two cinder blocks worked OK to.

GoRacer

ok, i'll tried the piano mover kart thing. It's pretty close to Iggy's beer crate idea, but on wheels. So now i'm stuck again. I forgot to have the nut on the front housing zapped off. Now when I try to take it off it just spins! Is there a way other then an air wrench to get it off?