D.R.S

hi there i from New Zealand any the way we build a 400+hp engine at D.R.S build it strong and relieable as we do stage2 turbo port,bridge port turbo, perf-port turbo, ok on the inturnal side starting off with the porting on the factory port left it up an back a few mil on the sec-port (the bridge) cut it on a angle and go back until you r about a mil away from th water seal on the housings were you notch the housing cut it on a 45deg angle the exhaust ports remove the insert thn port the rotors, stat gears,conner springs to use r 1996 rx7,two peice e-shaft,apex seals (PTS),high volume oil (mazda),stud kit the block, thn the block will b able to handle 25-45psi with out twisting i know you said you havent through ov th rest ov the stuff but here some suggestns



FUEL SYSTEN:



4x 1000cc or 4x1650cc injectors

13mm(1/2inch) fuel line

sx pump an reg

surge tank

75-100mm throttle body



TURBO



dont go any smaller than a gt45rs garret

48-60mm ex-wastegate

50mm bov





thn jst build the drive line to suit





Mark (Demon RotorSport) New Zealand

RONIN FC

You only leave 1mm to the coolant seal? Isnt that a little close for "street car" like reliability?

diabolical1

this would be my advice to you ...

D.R.S

no it is safe and not to close as ths is what we found tht works best and for bpt we do a big exhaust ports and we found tht the engine should have a unstable idle as ths will indercate good air flow thru th ports so i other words the engine should brap for a few mins and thn run flat and thn brap again whn it runs like ths the engine got th perfect flow but ths is wht we do here in New Zealand everyone does things diffrently to gt the same resalt as we do alot of drag engines and alot of r&d and ths is wht we find tht works ths is jst my oppion as i have not seen wht other bridges tht other ppl use as i want to help so ths guy so he can gt wht he wants wth th best bits so he can have less failers but is good to here tht he will do reg rebuilds ths is good to do