Put In Your 2 Cents....please!
09-23-2003, 03:57 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oxnard, CA.
Posts: 283
Having the engine rebuilt by XS. Was hoping for insight from the group. Here's what I have for Ideas so far.
Street port
Atkins or Rotary Aviation Apex seals
Silicone coolant seals
Anything you guys want to throw in?
The car wont see anything over 15lbs of boost and is a daily driver.
Thanks for any help
Street port
Atkins or Rotary Aviation Apex seals
Silicone coolant seals
Anything you guys want to throw in?
The car wont see anything over 15lbs of boost and is a daily driver.
Thanks for any help
09-24-2003, 05:51 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 267
Give it a mild port/street port (same thing). Basically means cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports without sacrificing nice bottom end
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents )
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
09-24-2003, 06:46 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by andynogo' date='Sep 24 2003, 02:51 AM
Give it a mild port/street port (same thing). Basically means cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports without sacrificing nice bottom end
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents )
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
mike
09-24-2003, 08:53 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: fredneck MD
Posts: 4,107
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 24 2003, 08:44 PM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
09-24-2003, 10:13 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oxnard, CA.
Posts: 283
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 24 2003, 04:44 PM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
09-24-2003, 10:26 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 343
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 25 2003, 08:44 AM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?