Put In Your 2 Cents....please!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 283
From: Oxnard, CA.
Having the engine rebuilt by XS. Was hoping for insight from the group. Here's what I have for Ideas so far.
Street port
Atkins or Rotary Aviation Apex seals
Silicone coolant seals
Anything you guys want to throw in?
The car wont see anything over 15lbs of boost and is a daily driver.
Thanks for any help
Street port
Atkins or Rotary Aviation Apex seals
Silicone coolant seals
Anything you guys want to throw in?
The car wont see anything over 15lbs of boost and is a daily driver.
Thanks for any help
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 267
From: Perth, Western Australia
Give it a mild port/street port (same thing). Basically means cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports without sacrificing nice bottom end
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents )
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Originally Posted by andynogo' date='Sep 24 2003, 02:51 AM
Give it a mild port/street port (same thing). Basically means cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports without sacrificing nice bottom end
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents )
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents
Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).
Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.
As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.
If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.
The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild.
mike
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,107
From: fredneck MD
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 24 2003, 08:44 PM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 283
From: Oxnard, CA.
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 24 2003, 04:44 PM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 343
From: Perth, Western Australia
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 25 2003, 08:44 AM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?
Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?