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-   Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/)
-   -   Put In Your 2 Cents....please! (https://www.nopistons.com/rotary-engine-building-porting-swaps-55/put-your-2-cents-please-25307/)

jackdhammer 09-23-2003 03:57 PM

Having the engine rebuilt by XS. Was hoping for insight from the group. Here's what I have for Ideas so far.



Street port

Atkins or Rotary Aviation Apex seals

Silicone coolant seals



Anything you guys want to throw in?

The car wont see anything over 15lbs of boost and is a daily driver.



Thanks for any help https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

pk797 09-23-2003 05:03 PM

What do you mean by silicone coolant seals?

jackdhammer 09-23-2003 08:55 PM

like these. Hayes. Other places offer them also.

andynogo 09-24-2003 05:51 AM

Give it a mild port/street port (same thing). Basically means cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports without sacrificing nice bottom end https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png



Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub... )



Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).



Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.



As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.



If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.



The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

toddp31 09-24-2003 06:22 PM

Use new seals!

Make sure you clearence everything to the right spec's according to mazda.



Take your time, don't rush and forget something (done it)

j9fd3s 09-24-2003 06:46 PM


Originally Posted by andynogo' date='Sep 24 2003, 02:51 AM
Give it a mild port/street port (same thing). Basically means cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports without sacrificing nice bottom end https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png



Go the Real World Solution seals- at the price (mine were $138 for seals & springs) they look like good value. My two sets arrived down here the other day and they look the business. In fact, if it weren't for the engraved match numbers instead of printed dots, I would say they were Hurleys. 2mm is the way to go for your application (and most in my opinion- that's my 2 cents https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub... )



Get all new metal springs, oil control o rings and rings if they are out of spec. Side and corner seals can be measured up but may be a worthwhile investment. Some people only replace the apex's and get away with that (I've done it many a time!).



Change all rubber hoses especially the horrible little rat's nest under the UIM, either to new rubber or silicone if you want to be flash. I think the silicone ones have to be glued on.



As for silcone coolant seals- up to you. I use facotry because they were desinged for the motor after years of testing. Never had one fail except for high mileage corroded motors.



If you wanna get fancy, get yout UIM polished or bead-blasted while they're apart. The LIM should be bead blasted too while it's apart.



The list goes on, and I'm sure you've got it all in hand- just make sure you're getting what you pay for in the rebuild. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

yah thats basically my feelings too



mike

Fd3BOOST 09-24-2003 07:44 PM

I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.

Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?

rfreeman27 09-24-2003 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 24 2003, 08:44 PM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.

Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?

Yeah, when you have puys putting down close to 800whp on stock seals (D...) running ungodly amounts of boost, i dont see why people would upgrade.

jackdhammer 09-24-2003 10:13 PM


Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 24 2003, 04:44 PM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.

Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?

Kind of like "If it aint broke....." Gotcha. Even the Apex seals?

Robbomaz 09-24-2003 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Sep 25 2003, 08:44 AM
I would not use anything other than Mazda factory seals.

Call me crazy but they seem to work just fine so why start using different ones?

I agree in principle but when the Mazda ones are $800 a set & aftermarket ones are $300 and at least as good...........


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