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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 11:03 PM
  #11  
Zero R's Avatar
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You mean something pretty like this? I agree with Dragon 400hp has no need for it.
Old Jul 23, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #12  
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[quote name='Dragon' date='Jul 21 2005, 07:25 AM']No dowels or sleves needed... Just myths started from the big name shops as a way for them to grab some more of your $.



A decent side port and good turbo will net you 400 with no problem....

[snapback]740957[/snapback]

[/quote]





Its not needed to obtain 400+rwhp, but it sure helps keep it together longer. I have noticed that most people can't keep their motors together longer than a few months, and when they do blow they have no idea at all as to why.



In pistons motors once you go beyond 10.5 s/c its common practice to change to studs, versus the stock bolts. Its been proven the heads will float around if you don't.



If you're making serious power or cracking the boost way up on an Rx-7, I view it the same way. Things are going to start moving around. Maybe this is one of the reasons so many people blown motors and have no idea why....



I'll have my stud kit finished soon, I plan on posting on how it goes.
Old Jul 23, 2005 | 01:30 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jul 23 2005, 08:23 AM
In pistons motors once you go beyond 10.5 s/c its common practice to change to studs, versus the stock bolts. Its been proven the heads will float around if you don't.



If you're making serious power or cracking the boost way up on an Rx-7, I view it the same way. Things are going to start moving around. Maybe this is one of the reasons so many people blown motors and have no idea why....


I don't know what unit of measure an "s/c" is, but I have many customers that are making absurd amounts of power with high compression or forced induction, using stock head bolts.



The difference between the piston cylinder head problem and the rotary rotor housing problem, is the forces against the cylinder head try to push the head upwards off of the gasket surface, while the forces against the rotor housing try to slide the rotor housing sideways along the sealing surface plane.



The force on the piston engine is against the bolts, while the force in a rotary is against the dowels.



This isn't to say that there is no sideways force (trying to spread the side housing away from each other) in the rotary, but the surface area available to the pressure is much greater in the "break the dowel pins" direction.
Old Jul 24, 2005 | 09:09 AM
  #14  
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So what are "smart upgrades" to get to the engine, to make it stronger ?

I Like hp, and think 400 hp would do the trick for me , but just to be safe, what are smart upgrades to an rotary engine, to make it last...... ( longer....
Old Jul 24, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #15  
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[quote name='viking' date='Jul 24 2005, 06:09 AM']So what are "smart upgrades" to get to the engine, to make it stronger ?

I Like hp, and think 400 hp would do the trick for me , but just to be safe, what are smart upgrades to an rotary engine, to make it last...... ( longer....

[snapback]742111[/snapback]

[/quote]



make sure you've got good oil pressure, the right oil and coolant temps. and tune it right
Old Jul 27, 2005 | 06:20 PM
  #16  
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[quote name='Zero R' date='Jul 23 2005, 04:03 PM']You mean something pretty like this? I agree with Dragon 400hp has no need for it.

[snapback]741738[/snapback]

[/quote]



Do you have any closer pictures of the cut outs near the ends of the studs?, do they have them at both ends?
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