Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps All you could ever want to know about rebuilding and porting your rotary engine! Discussions also on Water, Alcohol, Etc. Injection

Porting ain't easy...

Old Feb 3, 2007 | 06:25 PM
  #11  
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the problem i have had with air is it tends to blow metal all over the place.
Old Feb 3, 2007 | 07:35 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='857156' date='Feb 3 2007, 11:59 AM

Nice. It's all about what you're most comfortable with


yep, for the exhaust i like my dremel sand paper rolls, it leaves a nice finish. i'm not really going huge on the ports though
Old Feb 3, 2007 | 07:58 PM
  #13  
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I like single cut carbide for the exhaust. Its very fast, and still leaves a decent finish after rough porting. Sanding rolls make short work of the finishing.



For the irons, I prefer double cut carbide and an air grinder. Makes short work of the rough porting, letting you spend more time on the finishing, which is where it really matters.



The carbides remove matarial very quickly, and if the bit slips, it will ruin a housing before you realize what happened. Its also very easy to cut too deep into the casting. I wouldnt recommend it unless youre very comfortable with a die grinder. Sanding rolls, although slower, are much easier to control.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 11:00 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='857156' date='Feb 3 2007, 12:59 PM

Nice. It's all about what you're most comfortable with




I used to use a flex shaft running off my drill press. You can control the speed and the whole setup is cheap and effective.



I now use an electric die grinder form Harbor Freight that is real strong but only runs flat out and is a bit fast. Also the air die grinders. I have many of them with a different bit in each one, so I don't have to change bits.



Use bees wax on your carbides to prevent fouling from aluminum.



Once your port is laid out and scribed, lay down three layers of duct tape to protect the irons from accidents.





Lynn E. Hanover
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 11:11 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k' post='857152' date='Feb 3 2007, 11:23 AM

all of BDC's ports are done with w dremmel.


Just about every one of them, yep. The only thing I use any kind of air-powered grinder on is the rotor housings to initially remove away aluminum from the exhaust port. Otherwise, all of my actual grinding on irons is done w/ a Dremel-type tool (Dremel or Black and Decker, depending on what I have then since I go through them about once a year) and aluminum-oxide grinding stones. I am a firm believer than the Dremel-type 1/8" shank electric tools yield a far more accurate, cleaner, and "artistic" finish to a port over its die grinder counterpart. It might take longer, but I think it works much better.



B
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 05:51 AM
  #16  
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I've done all mine with a dremel and sanding rolls, granted you need a lot of them, and one of their carbide bits. Turned out nice and smooth.
Old Mar 12, 2007 | 12:13 AM
  #17  
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You've got a way to go but you're doing good, nevertheless!



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