Grizzly

I know its not exactly Engine Building and Porting but this is mainly for the guys who do allot of rebuilds.



I am finding i'm damaging allot of Pilot bearing putting the motor back? is there any tricks or Techniques to doing it (and keeping the bearings intact)?



I have been fitting the Clutch to the Thrust Bearing before fitting the engine as its quite tight (as its new) and its a struggle to push the bearing into the Clutch Assembly.



I did think this is where i was going wrong? maybe if i put the Clutch on the Flywheel first and Lined it up etc it would help get the assembly square before it got to the Pilot bearing?



This must sound like a Noob Question but its driving me mad replacing the Pilot bearing every time i take an Engine out and i can't guarantee its not destroyed it when it goes back in??



Any tips would be very handy.



Cheers...

Lynn E. Hanover

Usually it is the clutch disc not perfectly centered under the pressure plate that drives me nuts. I ordered the real deal steel input shaft replica part from Quartermaster and have never had a problem since. So, if you can get the splines to start through the clutch center, the engine will slide right on. Once you do it a number of times, you can eyeball the clutch disc centering as you install the pressure plate. Very easy for the single street disc. Impossible for the two or three disc racing clutch. For those you need the alignment tool.



In a street car, jack up the front of the trans high enough that the engine will not hang up on anything while you push it on. Adjust your lifting system to get the same up angle on the engine that you have on the trans.

Have on rear wheel off the floor just slightly and the carrier on a stand. Put the trans in 4th gear, and have the wife rock the wheel back and forth slightly. The splines will click right in and the engine will start on.

If you have no help, leav the rear wheels on the floor, and remove a plug from each housing and put a deep socket and handle on the front pulley bolt. Rock the engine back and forth while pushing it onto the splines and it will click right in.



When you get the engine going down into the compartment, bias the chainfall or winch system to be pulling the engine slightly to the rear, so when it starts on you can let go of it and it will not slide right back off.

Keep in mind to lower the engine as it slides in. Look into the bellhousing as you go and keep the same distance all around as you push the engine back.



When removing the engine, once all of the bolts are out, don't pry apart the bellhousing to engine split. Just climb in and drill the clutch pedal, and the engine will pop forward about 3/4". But be sure all of the bolts are out. Or, you will break a bell housing.



After a few times it will go real fast. We could change an engine in an hour in a panic. But there is nothing around my engine to slow you down.



Lynn E. Hanover

j9fd3s

plan b is taking the trans out, and mating em up on the floor.



plan c involves taking the trans out, putting the engine in, and then putting the trans in

jwteknix

plan b is much easier plan c sucks *****

Grizzly

So the recomended way of fitting the engine is with the Clutch on the Flywheels then?



I guess i'm just being too heavy handed, i line it up well when the engine meets the Box and remove the Engine mounts that realy help but i always seem to struggle with the Pilot Bearing (it goes through the Clutch then jams up at the last 1/2 inch) i have lined the Clutch up fairly well but i will buy the Proper took to do the Job and see if it helps.



I guess practic makes perfect.....

jwteknix

yeah he cluch alignment tool helps alot usaully you get them for free when you buy a clutch kit thats how i got mine also iv learned it is much easier to remove the engine and trans together and put then back that way also

banzaitoyota

I use a cut off input shaft to align with

jwteknix

that works too

C. Ludwig

That's the best way. The plastic tools suck *****.

ColinRX7

Hey, don't sell yourself short yet:



That's not neccessarily the wrong way to do it. I have books describing that method as accepted. It's definately not the easiest though.



That said, the most popular method is to use an alignment tool. You can buy them, or use an input shaft removed from another transmission (like banzai said, also in the book). Sometimes new clutches come with plastic alignment tools.