Pinning seals
10-26-2007, 11:17 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 131
Hey
so ive got a few questions, when ya talk about putting togeather a Jport engine ive heard people talk about pinning the seals(water seals) what exactly is done here?
also when porting a bp plate, (old style) how close can you take it towards the inner water seals and still retain good structual intergity of the water seal groove?
cheers
so ive got a few questions, when ya talk about putting togeather a Jport engine ive heard people talk about pinning the seals(water seals) what exactly is done here?
also when porting a bp plate, (old style) how close can you take it towards the inner water seals and still retain good structual intergity of the water seal groove?
cheers
10-27-2007, 07:07 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by hsmidy' post='886393' date='Oct 26 2007, 09:17 PM
Hey
so ive got a few questions, when ya talk about putting togeather a Jport engine ive heard people talk about pinning the seals(water seals) what exactly is done here?
also when porting a bp plate, (old style) how close can you take it towards the inner water seals and still retain good structual intergity of the water seal groove?
cheers
so ive got a few questions, when ya talk about putting togeather a Jport engine ive heard people talk about pinning the seals(water seals) what exactly is done here?
also when porting a bp plate, (old style) how close can you take it towards the inner water seals and still retain good structual intergity of the water seal groove?
cheers
For early stuff with the grooves in the rotor housing:
All of the groove is removed. Only the outer wall of the groove remains on the rotor housing to seal water out of the port. The port in the iron matches this exactly. So, if you saw the assembly into two pieces right through the port to get a top view, the port looks like a fat "J".
Since the groove is now open to the port, some method must be employed to keep the compression "O" ring from extruding into the port, when the stack is torqued up. The pros, like Drummond and others drill into the bottom of that groove just short of the port, and press in a short roll pin, to block the groove. A drop of silicone on the end of the cut down "O" ring right at the pin, and a thin coating along the outer edge of the groove wall, is all that keeps the coolant out of the port.
The monster port is the same layout, except that the whole water jacket in the rotor housing, next to the runner is filled with a good mechanical epoxy, and the runner and turn into the engine is then formed in the epoxy, where water would have been. Devcon aluminum filled epoxy works the best. Scuff up any surface you plan to epoxy. This is for near Pport performance, at high RPM.
If the seal groove is in the irons, the roll pin must be held back from the port a bit further as the iron may be quite thin. Still no problems.
In the rotor housing grooves, I just use a narrow chisel, to stand up a barb that has the sharp end point away from the runner. I then cut the end of the "O" ring at that same angle so it fits into the wedge shape of the barb when it expands.
A "J" ported 12A (No epoxy allowed) comes on at 6,500 and is strong up to 10,000 RPM. From a dyno sheet:
173.3 HP at 6,500
218.2 HP at 7,500
239.2 HP at 8,500
244.8 HP at 9,500
Lynn E. Hanover
Picture is my GTP lights car with 12A power. About 100 years ago.
10-27-2007, 07:34 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='886405' date='Oct 27 2007, 05:07 AM
For early stuff with the grooves in the rotor housing:
All of the groove is removed. Only the outer wall of the groove remains on the rotor housing to seal water out of the port. The port in the iron matches this exactly. So, if you saw the assembly into two pieces right through the port to get a top view, the port looks like a fat "J".
Since the groove is now open to the port, some method must be employed to keep the compression "O" ring from extruding into the port, when the stack is torqued up. The pros, like Drummond and others drill into the bottom of that groove just short of the port, and press in a short roll pin, to block the groove. A drop of silicone on the end of the cut down "O" ring right at the pin, and a thin coating along the outer edge of the groove wall, is all that keeps the coolant out of the port.
The monster port is the same layout, except that the whole water jacket in the rotor housing, next to the runner is filled with a good mechanical epoxy, and the runner and turn into the engine is then formed in the epoxy, where water would have been. Devcon aluminum filled epoxy works the best. Scuff up any surface you plan to epoxy. This is for near Pport performance, at high RPM.
If the seal groove is in the irons, the roll pin must be held back from the port a bit further as the iron may be quite thin. Still no problems.
In the rotor housing grooves, I just use a narrow chisel, to stand up a barb that has the sharp end point away from the runner. I then cut the end of the "O" ring at that same angle so it fits into the wedge shape of the barb when it expands.
A "J" ported 12A (No epoxy allowed) comes on at 6,500 and is strong up to 10,000 RPM. From a dyno sheet:
173.3 HP at 6,500
218.2 HP at 7,500
239.2 HP at 8,500
244.8 HP at 9,500
Lynn E. Hanover
Picture is my GTP lights car with 12A power. About 100 years ago.
All of the groove is removed. Only the outer wall of the groove remains on the rotor housing to seal water out of the port. The port in the iron matches this exactly. So, if you saw the assembly into two pieces right through the port to get a top view, the port looks like a fat "J".
Since the groove is now open to the port, some method must be employed to keep the compression "O" ring from extruding into the port, when the stack is torqued up. The pros, like Drummond and others drill into the bottom of that groove just short of the port, and press in a short roll pin, to block the groove. A drop of silicone on the end of the cut down "O" ring right at the pin, and a thin coating along the outer edge of the groove wall, is all that keeps the coolant out of the port.
The monster port is the same layout, except that the whole water jacket in the rotor housing, next to the runner is filled with a good mechanical epoxy, and the runner and turn into the engine is then formed in the epoxy, where water would have been. Devcon aluminum filled epoxy works the best. Scuff up any surface you plan to epoxy. This is for near Pport performance, at high RPM.
If the seal groove is in the irons, the roll pin must be held back from the port a bit further as the iron may be quite thin. Still no problems.
In the rotor housing grooves, I just use a narrow chisel, to stand up a barb that has the sharp end point away from the runner. I then cut the end of the "O" ring at that same angle so it fits into the wedge shape of the barb when it expands.
A "J" ported 12A (No epoxy allowed) comes on at 6,500 and is strong up to 10,000 RPM. From a dyno sheet:
173.3 HP at 6,500
218.2 HP at 7,500
239.2 HP at 8,500
244.8 HP at 9,500
Lynn E. Hanover
Picture is my GTP lights car with 12A power. About 100 years ago.
Here is a picture of a "J" bridge port in 12A iron.
Lynn E. Hanover
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