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Opinions on my P.port housings

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Old Nov 13, 2005 | 04:30 PM
  #31  
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But in a good way
Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:03 PM
  #32  
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http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/portchoke.JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/portchoke2.JPG



Made some portchokes just incase the 51mm port doesnt have velocity to properly fill the intake cycle.



Inner dia. is 45mm, pretty close to MFR size
Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:10 PM
  #33  
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I also fabricated a manifold.

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/ppmanifold.JPG
Old Dec 28, 2005 | 06:01 PM
  #34  
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looking real good
Old Dec 28, 2005 | 07:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Kim' post='790233' date='Dec 27 2005, 04:03 PM

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/portchoke.JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/portchoke2.JPG



Made some portchokes just incase the 51mm port doesnt have velocity to properly fill the intake cycle.



Inner dia. is 45mm, pretty close to MFR size


thats the street setup?
Old Dec 29, 2005 | 05:01 PM
  #36  
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Ha ha back when i had the BP motor, i took it for a shakedown on the street, oh boy did it turn some heads
Old Dec 30, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
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Motor is done, a few pics.

Lets see if you guys can find out whats looks wrong in the pictures. Game On



http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport.JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport%20(1).JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport%20(2).JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport%20(3).JPG
Old Dec 30, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #38  
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http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport(1).JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport(2).JPG

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport(3).JPG
Old Dec 30, 2005 | 07:50 PM
  #39  
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where did u get the port sleeves
Old Dec 30, 2005 | 08:05 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Kim' post='790960' date='Dec 30 2005, 02:05 PM




I'll bite.



My wife does this to me all of te time. Did you notice anything? I am screwed. Like Sgt. Shultz, I notice nothing!!



If that has a metal clutch disc in there, it is designed to act like a switch. Engaged or not engeged. And it can get grabby. If you slip it too much it will warp a bit, and be less grabby. New at .105" Worn out at .093".



I would have painted the irons.



I would have oiled both ends of the main gallery. (top dowel pin hole).



I would loose the stock looking oil filter mount and used an aftermarket filter mount with a K&N high pressure spin on can.



I don't use the outer vertical gallery that starts with the Banjo fitting. An adaptor block on the oil filter pad gets oil into the inner gallery and provides a location to tap off oil for the front end of the main gallery, oil temp and oil pressure. This based on being able to control the max oil pressure at the dry sump pump.

The first time the engine comes out, re-rig with all dash 12 pressure hose and plumbing.



The dip stick hole should have been tapped for a proper plug, but a cut off dip stick will work.



An Aluminum water pump would have been nice.



I would loose the stock igniters. They cross fire now and then, and can kill an engine.



Run both MSDs from the leading mag pickup. The trailing pickup is not used. Run the wires through some dash 4 stainless hose. Ground the stainless braid.



That was all I noticed.

Did I win?





Lynn E. Hanover



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